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BIG BIG PROBLEM!!!!!! please help me..


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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

How is this coming for you, Mike?

 

I was looking at my car, and realized that my tires would probably hit about the same spot on the fender if the car was much lower (I have 16" wheels, but probably a little taller profile tire). I can take measurements of my springs, adjustment tube if you need. I think the adjustment tube I have is a bit taller than yours. My car rides with about 1.5" of air space between the tire and fender rim, and about 2" of air space between the tire and where it would first contact.

 

I think eventually you are going to want to cut the fenders and flare them out (as I plan to), otherwise, if you hit a bump hard enough you will risk gouging the fender into your tire :shock:

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Well terry i dont even have to worry about these strust i have now... as i didnt even use a spacer, i just cut the rear struts to fit the tokico inserts.. so there like 3 inchs to short.

i need to get new rear strut tubes... but i need them fast.

i would love to get them with the perchs for the coilovers already on and sectioned for my car as my dad donest no what to do, and i really just would like for my dad to just put it together as he has been going threw hell with this car.

so anybody have any rear strut tubes?

 

thanks

 

mike

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It appears the struts were sectioned below the lower spring. I have not seen the kit instructions but if you remove a section don't you have to compensate by installing the perch that same amount higher? If that perch is on the factory perch weld and then you section below that, it seems to me that would be a problem.

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Mike,

I feel bad for your Dad. There is a guy I know up here and if I remember right, he had an extra set of 280Z rear strut assemblies. If he still does, I will cut them and weld 'em back together and ship them out to your Dad.

 

I'll find out tonight and reply here. Shipping might be expensive going from Wisconsin to Florida though.

 

!M!

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It appears the struts were sectioned below the lower spring. I have not seen the kit instructions but if you remove a section don't you have to compensate by installing the perch that same amount higher? If that perch is on the factory perch weld and then you section below that, it seems to me that would be a problem.

 

It shouldn't be a real problem if you do a good weld, however listening to the good folks here, sectioning the strut about and inch below the threads on the strut tube seems to be a good idea. This way you don't have the wieght of the car resting on two welds (the perch and where you sectioned). Puts your mind at ease if you're still a novice welder.

 

!M!

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Whoops, misunderstood you :oops: . If you section your struts you should be well aware that this lowers the ride height by itself. Sectioning also regains the rebound in the strut travel after lowering a car. Sectioning is mostly done with coilovers, so if your ride hieght is to low, then you can adjust it. In Mikes case though, he sectioned about twice as much as he should have. This lowered his car too much.

 

!M!

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Mike,

Going off of what you said you have, we have about the same setup in the rear. What is the part number of the cartridge that you are using? I think I have Tokico Illumina BZ3038 if memory serves correctly. I sectioned 1.5" and used washers under the cart. to bring it up to the gland nut. The car sits fine on 17"'s with enough adjustability.

 

!M!

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A general thought here on "how much" to reduce the length of your strut begins with, "what is your target ride height?". I wanted to lower my Z by a minimum of 2" (this was based on the 1.5" drop on my street Z). If I wished to maintain the same compliance in my suspension, then shortening the strut by that same (2") amount seemed appropriate. The insert was shorter than the front OEM strut, so if I was to displace the center of the range of movement only 2", then I needed to find a way to place a short insert into a long tube. This is why I placed a spacer plug in the bottom of the strut tube to push the insert up to the top of the tube (against the gland nut). This way the insert has full range of movement and is placed at a location that lowers the "window" of movement from stock, down by 2", to it's current height. So decide how much the car will be lowered, and this should be a general idea of how much you want to remove from the tube. Then you can go about the menial task of positioning the insert up in the tube.

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to be honest im not sure what they are.. there Tokcio Illuminas, bought from Ross.. if i can find out what he sent me ill post tonight.

also if you can do this for me, is there anyway you can get me washers too? and ill prob need the gland nuts too.

THANKS SO MUCH MAN.. thanks for even showing that your willing to help me out here.

and thanks to everybody else on here thats been helping me out.

 

mike

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well the front of my car is very low, but nice.. its not bad at all.

it was sectioned buy just putting the insert in and cuttingt off to make it fit right.. from what i was told i did the fronts correct... ( i didnt do the rears :()

i wouldnt mind having my Z as low as possiable while keeping it at a perfect ride height. i dont mind cutting my fenders abit for the ZG flares but i rather do that later down the road... like when i comes to texas so i can do it.

so i guess if i can have it without cutting the fenders right now, but making it so i can lower it when it comes to texas and then i can cut the fenders...

 

mike

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if i move the sleves up the 1.5inchs would this give me even more and better chances that ill be in a safe zone?mike

 

Mike, last night I had missed reading an above post where your dad might cut out a portion of your fender lips......If you raise the sleeve 1.5", and trim your fender their is a chance you could be close to using them as is. You could gain 1.5" on the sleeve adjustment (plus a 1/4" I still see available in that picture??). PLus an inch (guessing here) on your fender trimming.

 

Have you asked the seller (John Washington?) about suggestions for his fender install/trim amount? The more trimming he suggests the better you're off. It may not allow ideal travel but it would get you going in reasonably manner which you can tweak later.....custom spacer at top of strut mount (above OEM top strut top) to increase overall strut length is one option to save strut reworking....like a bolt on wheel adaptor but a bolt on strut 'raiser'.

 

That's one HELLUV'AN offer Matt's anted up for you! Sorry Mike but my machinists are booked up and couldn't sqeeze in a modification like this in a timely manner for your rush timeframe as I passed on to you.

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its ok Ross... thanks for trying and helping me out..

all ill be doing is trimming the stock fenders.. im running bolt on ZG flares.. from MSA.

i think im just gonna do new rear struts if Mat can help me out.

thanks

 

mike

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EDIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

but like i said Roos your truly a great friend and you treat everybody as you would treat yourself!

thanks again man.

 

 

mike

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oh my bad dude.. ill edit my post..

thanks again ross... if you ever need anything let me no.... im sure a nobody kid can prob help out sometime in some crazy way.

 

thanks

 

mike

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wow that alotta tire and wheel ,i have sectioned my struts and also have zg flares im only running 15-7 with 3.5 inch back spacing and 225-50-15.

i took a plasma to the wheel arches and hacked about 2.5 inches out .

(before paint ) and i barley clear with the car that low.

 

ill send you a pic if you like just email me, j3klayton@hotmail.com

i hope you work it out it looks like it will be sweet but were you sit right now its looks like you need some monster rake(butt rocker style) to make it clear and not come dowm on the fenders.

just cust it the flares cover nice and it gives you that bada** stuffed look with those steamrollers you got there :)

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