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MSnS install this weekend


mobythevan

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I have both days this weekend to work on the install of MSnS. I downloaded the MSnS version 3 code onto my megasquirt board. BTW, I couldn't get the download.exe program from Eric to work. I found that using the EasyTherm4 program to download new code works much easier(it isn't just for making new calibration files). It tells you exactly what to do in the readme files and in the GUI. I set up the base fuel setting from MegaTune and the base ignition settings from MegaTuneSS. The MSnS works fine on the stimulator board. I built the 37pin cable and connected to the realy board, everything still works. I also built a dropping resistor pack using 6 6ohm 25watt resistors. That cost me $6. I am not going to run in PWM mode to start with. My goal this weekend is to get the car to fire and idle. To do that I still have to get the trigger from the dizzy hooked up to MSnS, use a 4 pin HEI module to drive the coil, and get the fixed timing of the dizzy set so my igntion table works. Should be fun :cheers:

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Guest bastaad525

I look forward to hearing the results... I'm starting to lean more towards using a piggyback ECU instead of a standalone... but I'm still very interested and very open to possibly going with the MS

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I figured out the first piece of business on how to trigger MS or MSnS with the 83 turbo CAS. I couldn't figure out what to do with the GY and GB wires so I searched around and found the following info on zcar:

 

This came from jt240z so give him credit:

 

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I can't tell you about the 81 trigger wheel, but if you use an 82 or 83 turbo distributor, you can get some benefits that are not available from the 81 crank trigger. The 82/83 distributor has a built in optical crank angle sensor that is well adaptable to after market systems that use a home and trigger configuration. You need to install the VG30 trigger wheel from any 84 to 89 300ZX or Maxima, but what you get is a true #1 cylinder "Home" reference. With the crank angle sensor in the distributor you get 720 degrees of engine rotation for each 360 degree of trigger wheel rotation. This allows for a unique #1 cylinder identifier. The original trigger wheel in the 280zx turbo does not uniquely reference the #1 cylinder. That's why you need to change the wheel. The 81 distributor has no optical sensor built in, which is why they use the crank trigger wheel and pick-up. The 82/83 distributor is a direct drop in replacement for the 81 distributor.

 

With the above configuration you can do sequential fuel injection and sequential ignition. There are two rows of trigger slots on the trigger wheel. The outer track gives you 360 slots (each gives 2 degrees of crank resolution) while the inner track has 6 slots (one for each cylinder). On the 280zx trigger wheel all six slots are the same size (about 2 outer slots wide 120 degrees apart) but the VG30 wheel has an 8 or 9 outer slot width for the #1 cylinder while the remaining 5 cylinders are the same width as the 280ZX.

 

The optical sensor output gives a low to high transition when the slots are open (light goes through). There are 4 wires (Black, Black/White, Green/Black and Green/yellow I think). The Black/white wire gets +12V (IGN) while the Black is Ground. The Green/Yellow is the 360-slot output and the Green/Black is the 6-slot output. Someone please correct me if I have them reversed. The optical outputs need a pull-up resistor in order to go high. Most ECU's that support an optical trigger have internal pull-up resistors. You can verify the outputs by using a DVM and a 2K-ohm pull-up resistor. Just connect the output to the 12V line through the pull-up resistor and measure the voltage across the resistor. When you rotate the distributor shaft, the voltage will rise and fall as the windows pass through the optical sensor. It will be obvious which is the 360 slot v/s the 6 slot output. Some ECU's (Haltech E6K, E11) have direct support for this type of trigger (Nissan Trigger).

 

I hope this is of some help.

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So , given that info I put a 2k pullup to 12 volts on the GB wire and triggered MS from the GB wire. Looks like it works great. I'll let you know if I get the car running tomorrow. I still plan to use the gm 4 pin module to fire the coil.

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I got the 4 pin GM HEI module firing the coil now. I am using the relay board with MSS. I removed the fast idle relay and then put a jumper in place that connects pin 30 in from MSS to FIDLE on the terminal block. That way I am getting the FIDLE signal straight from the ECU. Then in MegaTuneSS I set the output to be inverted. I connected pin W of the HEI module to ground. I connected Pin G to FIDLE at the terminal block and put a 1k pullup on this pin to 12 volts. Connect pin B to positive coil terminal and connect this terminal to switched battery 12 volts. Connect pin C to negative coil terminal. Fire in the hole :twisted:

 

All I have to do now is get the MAP sensor hooked to the intake and set my intial timing of CAS to the MSS. Should be fired up tomorrow night or Tuesday. So far so good. Bernard, let me know if you get your working.

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I did a couple tests and the ECU will not fire the HEI module directly, you have to have the pullup resistor. I didn't like the idea of pulling an micro-controller pin up to 12 volts so I pulled it up to 5 volts now and that works fine. I'll look at the data sheet on the micro-controller and see what the pin specs are, but will likely just stick with a pullup to 5 volts.

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I don't get any time during the week to work on the car, but I am confident I will get it running this weekend. I solved the hard problems last weekend with supplying the trigger to MSS and being able to fire the coil. I'll let you guys know when it fires up. So far everything is going really smooth.

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