Guest bastaad525 Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 sux... my friend says there's no way we're gonna be able to do it until at least mid january. Since I"m not running too high of boost I"m seriously thinking of just running straight metal pipe, I can have a muffler shop cut some to size for me for the straight sections, which I'd need four I believe, and maybe PVC elbows for the bends, with silicone hose for the joints and good clamps. I know it's ghetto but it would work... wouldn't it? Just worried about any leaking or stuff blowing off Only thinking of running the same 10 or maybe as high as 12psi tops with this setup anyways... so can I get away with this? DOH and I keep forgetting before I could even do something like that I have to mod or move the inlet and outlet necks on the I/C wonder if I could have just any muffler shop do that too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 JCwhitney sells the mandrel bends for a good price, its where a lot of us got our charge pipes from. A good muffler shop can do the intercooler mod i guess. I would suggest not using any pvc piping, except possibly for the air intake off the afm. I would INVEST in silicone couplers, and good clamps. I made sure i used very good couplers and all my piping is secured nicely, and have blown ZERO hoses in an entire YEAR of daily,. turbo, driving. For the extra mile I would weld brackets to the pipe to secure it to the frame, to prevent them from walking off as well, and run a few hump hoses to compensate for engine movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 Ditto on the PVC. Just say NO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 LOL okay okay... any particular reason why no PVC though? Anyways no big deal I wont do it... just got the car painted to make it more 'presentable' not going two steps back by ghetto-fabbing the engine bay. There are a few other things I want to do as well... like I would like to get a metal pipe made to replace the AFM to turbo boot... fuggin sux that it's two different diameters on the ends, but I've had three of these things crack on me now... need something a little more sturdy. I'm still curious though... why no PVC?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 under boost, pvc can leak from the threads, it can split open, heat can warp it, blah blah blah. its not good. for the afm i used a 2.25 to 3" reducer silicone coupler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 Yup, heat kills it. It flows and will burst under pressure. I used a piece for my intake instead of the old boot, and I had to keep tightening it, as the plastic kept flowing. What a PITA. Now I have a collector cone doing the transition and silicone pieces joining it all together. I had no problems with it all last season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Kewl alright now I know definately no PVC. So for the AFM to Turbo boot just get a 3" pipe in the right shape... and there are silicone couplers that go from one size to another? Man I wish I'd known there are SO many times I could have used something like that. I'm always wondering how you can adapt pipe of one size to another. Now, for the pipe, should I just get one of those U-shaped mandrel bend 3" pipes, cut in the middle turn it 180* and weld it back together? That sound about right? I dont suppose anyone has made these for sale at some point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 turbohoses.com atpturbo.com both of them carry the coupler you need for the afm, look at transition coupler/reducer. you should try and mount the ic first, and if you have to change inlet outlet formation, change it before solid mounting the ic. then use a coat hanger or something like that and figure out your piping situation, how many bends of what how much of what whatever. it helps to figure out how much you can have welded together and what you have to use a coupler for. for the intake, its different for every different car, on my car i run a transition coupler off the turbo, to a 3" pipe that has a slight angle in it, to the afm, to a 30 degree sweeper to a 45 around the radiator support, to my air filter that touches the back of the front bumper Hks racing suction baby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted December 11, 2003 Share Posted December 11, 2003 here is the real lowdown on the PVC piping, 3" PVC piping has a larger OD than 3" steel piping, and ditto for 2" pipes. so a PVC elbow would not even seal on a steal pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 11, 2003 Share Posted December 11, 2003 here is the real lowdown on the PVC piping, 3" PVC piping has a larger OD than 3" steel piping, and ditto for 2" pipes. so a PVC elbow would not even seal on a steal pipe. I was thinking about that myself... I found this out when I was trying to use a short section of PVC pipe to go between my air filter and the AFM a few months ago... I couldn't find a pipe that would fit perfectly for any of it!! I just had a muffler shop chop me off a 4" long section of 3" pipe and it worked perfect. Anyways this delay will give me some time to get a better fuel pump and rising rate regulator so I know I'll have the fuel to back up the denser air and higher boost I'll run. How much more HP do you guys think I'll see at the wheels at 12-13psi intercooled over 10psi non? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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