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Found cheap piston for a 3.0L


Mack

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well, I've been looking and looking, and now I have found it. after years of wanting to build a motor, I found all the parts necessary and I have SOME money. I want to build a 3.0L with the deisel block. my plans are (tennative, as always, barring any unforseen difficulties like my car getting stolen again) go to the J/Y put P90A head on deisel block, L20B timing cover, deisel manifolds (Deisel intake with injector bungs is NICE, not to mention the manifolds are already gone from the P90A) and a nice infiniti M30 wiring harness, ECU and all the associated. $175. not too shabby

 

anyway, bore deisel block to 87.5mm, keep crankshaft. Z20E con rods (31 new, or $10 ea from teh pick 'n' pull) at 152.5mm, and, here it is, toyota 3VZE pistons. stock bore is 87.5, SOHC with 2 valve releifs, pin height of 33.7mm and pin diameter of .8271 vs. L series of .8267. I think I can swing that, especially at $140 a set with rings. I'll have .2mm positive deck clearance.

 

whaddya think?

 

McAdam

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there supposedly a guy near me that runs the diesel block with a p90 or maybe even early 240z head, said that there were 22 mods or so needed to put a gas head on the block, and quite a few more needed to run.

he runs low 13s in this car, and its in a early MAXIMA. good luck, sounds like you have a pretty cool treasure hunt on your hands!

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yeah, I think his screen name is DAW, perhaps? one of the mods was an L20B front cover, which is ironically the exact same deck height as the LD28. Another thing was drilling out the head bolt holes on the N/A head to accept 12mm head bolts. BMW headbolts will work. I think the rod/stroke ratio alone will be woth it, also the block should be a bit more suited to boost, being thicker cylinder walls and all...... I really want to make this work. I think it shuold perform quite well!! should make quite a chunk of torque!

 

on the pistons, I have no clue. I just saw the silvolite catalogue listing and diagrams for them. the specs look good. dunno about the ring land thickness. but, if your running 12PSI on them, sounds decent. as long as you can keep the detonation away, should be good.

 

McAdam

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I looked at those pistons but I think there was a conflict re the valve pockets. They are set up for evenly staggered intake-exhaust valve orientation, The L6 is not set up evenly, some cylinders are intake-exhaust reversed compared to the Toyota. There's no way to orient them so that the appropriate valve pocket lines up with its corresponding sized valve.

 

How about using a Z22E rod (148.6mm) and a L28ET piston? That's a 0.060" overbore. If you're buying pistons new, then you can get 87mm L28ET pistons, a 0.100" overbore. This would be for a turbo engine. If you're building a na engine, then you could use late model (F54 flat-top) L28E pistons. If you want higher compression with a na setup then consider flat-tops with an N42/47 head.

 

BTW, VG30 rods look good on paper due to their length, pin dia. and correct journal size but they won't work because the big ends are too narrow. Just saving you some headaches if you're crunching numbers.

Use 184.5mm as your rod length + compression ht working number which should give zero deck ht.

 

Good luck, DAW

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found another one. mitsubishi 4G64 engine. came in eclipse spyders. 86.5mm stock bore, 34.5mm compression height, 22mm diameter pin. in the diagram, looks like it has some nice thick ringlands. also, its got just a 3.1" diameter, .15 inch deep dish, no valve pockets or anything else to screw up the combustion chamber.

 

Of course, this is assuming the Z20 rods are decent looking. never seen one. but I know the L20B rods are pretty stout. off to the junkyard!

 

McAdam

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