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HELP!!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I just recently purchased a 71' 240z w/ chevy v8...It supposively runs the 1/4 in 10.2 which is hard to believe in my opinion...The guy i bought it from builds drag engines and seems to know his stuff, but could someone help me out on figuring out what i need to make this car reliable? The engine is a 1991 truck motor balanced, blueprinted, 10.25:1 compression ratio pistons, 290 degree duration cam. Street dominator intake manifold. Lightened and fully balanced fly wheel, ram clutch mated to Saginaw close ratio 4-speed transmission, R-200 rear end with 355:1 ratio gears. There has been no stiffening up of the chassis that i can tell of except new struts. I just need someone to help me understand what i need to get started on making this car reliable and keep it from twisting the frame/body.

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Guest Anonymous

For a beginning: Front strut tower to tower brace and front towers brace to firewall. rear tower to tower strut brace. Pictures and details of these type of modifications can be found in a forum search on this site. The elapsed time seems very fast for what you describe.

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Guest Anonymous

It does have a roll bar in the back w/ 4 mounting brackets. 2 are on either side of strut towers and 2 are behind seats near bolts that hold seats down...the engine has an eye hook thing running from it to frame...is that good enough or do i need actual bars welded in? also is the r200 rearend strong enough for this motor? I just got back from in town to get a tach for it and the motor seems bogged down...any ideas? car has edelbrock 750cfm carburator..i think its rummimg too rich..plus i can smell the gas? :confused:

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The eye bolt engine-to-frame thing sounds like an engine strap. Keeps the engine from over torqueing the engine mounts.

 

The gas smell is probably from the gas tank vent hoses. I did worry about the gas smell and replacing all of the hoses solved it. If your 71 is a California model like mine was, then you have a plastic vent tank in the back hatch region just above the gas fill spout. Remove the plastic panel to find it. There are 2 or 3 hoses that go from this vent tank to the gas tank itself. Note that the hoses (and the vent tank) are in the passenger's compartment.

 

You have to replace these with the overpriced Nissan parts. Don't try to use heater hose because heater hose won't stand up to the gas.

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Guest Anonymous

i think the tires for that time were 13" slicks...but i really dont think this car is that fast...when i put the tach in a few hours ago it only revs to 7000 in 1st and 2nd gear and in 3rd and 4th gear the motor doesnt make it past 5800 and only hits about 110mph...any clues why this is?

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Guest Anonymous

My read on that is a smaller carb would take longer but should rpm the same. My car is tubbed

and only take 12 inch slick and my motor is 400 hp

to rear wheels and 10.54 with 456 gears and 5000

stall not exactly street kind of car'.

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Guest Anonymous

Just talked to the guy today...the carburator is an edelbrock 600cfm...he says with that one the car makes about 400-425HP...He said with a Holley 750cfm Double Pumper it makes around 500HP and that what he used along with some drag slicks to run a 10.2 1/4mile. With the carberator right now he says 1/4 mile should be 11.5-12 sec, depending on my reaction time which is about right. Also was explained that this engine can rev to 7500 consistently with bigger carberator i.e. Holley 750, which would explain why i can only hit 6000rpm!

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Guest Anonymous

zank,

The guy i bought it from was explaining that with the cams in it after 6000 rpm it needs more airflow from a bigger carberator than a 600cfm can provide...also maybe the ignition he had on it was different, I didnt ask him about that. Ive seen the slicks he used on this car and they do fit...He custom flared the fenders and it has no problem tucking the 275/50/15's. It could easily accept 295 or 305's too. I can send you a pic. Also what kind of setup are you running? It sounds like we kinda have the same setup except i have a 4 speed manual.

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