KiD-ViD

Ok, I am building a CSP miata with ITBs and the whole works. This is the most technically knowledgeable forum I have ever been so I figure I will bug you guys a bit. Anyway, our throttle bodies came with 380cc injectors and our tuner is having a hard time getting the car to idle with such big injectors on such a small engine. He said he turned down the fuel pressure all the way and set the fuel map on our AEM standalone to the lowest setting at idle and it is still running 10:1 air/fuel ratio. So we told him to use the stock injectors we gave him and to this he answered that the fittings on the stock injectors were too small for both our new fuel rail and our new throttle bodies. I was under the impression that all injectors were the same size, it was just the internal valving or whatever that was different. Our autocross is this coming weekend so seeking a quick solution he offered to trade us our 380s for a set of injectors off of his civic, claiming that even though its a smaller engine (1.6 vs our 1.8) it still makes about the same power so it should flow enough. Sounds logical to me. He also said he wouldnt mind since he is putting in a turbo soon and needs bigger injectors. My question to you is, is he trying to scam us out of our bigger/better injectors. This is trading brand new RC injectors for a set of used stock injectors. Could he be making up/exaggerating this problem to score some injectors for his turbo build up? Thanks in advance for your time and expertise guys.

Thanks John, that is exactly the type of answer I was looking for. I guess I shoulda just looked up some SCCA results...I didnt even think of that. And that is the answer I wanted too. As much as I love the miata, the Z still looks so much better.

Well, I was saying if the miata was also similarly prepared. As for autocrossing, I already do with a fully speced CSP miata. And I would never try and push the limits when there is a cliff nearby, guardrail or not. I have been in a far too severe car accident for that heh. Just quick spirited driving with some buddies.

Well I recently moved to Ventura county and there are tons of canyons to be had down here. I am thinking once I get a little more financially stable I will build a car up for weekend canyon runs. Here is my dilema, I am obsessed with lightweight rear wheel drive cars and therefore cant decide between which car to buy for this. A 1990 Mazda Miata or a 240z. I would plan to do a full suspension and brake setup along the lines of Advanced Design shocks, AZC brakes, etc... So at this level of modification would the Miata still have a huge handling advantage over a 240z? I think it would be easier to get a Z down in weight but the Miata has much newer engineering and is also known to be an incredible handler. Thanks for your input on my little bench racing day dreams guys!

Yeah that is pretty much what I was thinking. I just love the styling and history of the Z so much. I am not a big fan of the miatas looks but I know it can handle. Plus power is much easier to get in a Z because of all the swap options. Although I am much more concerned with weight than power, more power is always nice to help you get around a track. So you think a stripped out '90 Miata with a 1.8 from a later Miata, a turbo, and a nice suspension setup would beat a stripped out 240z with an sr20 and all the suspension goodies? Seems like a pretty close race to me.

I have a question for you guys that I have been debating for a while. Which chassis do you think has more potential? The 240z or the Mazda Miata (we will say a 90-93 miata cause they are in about the same price range as a 240z)? I know you might be a bit biased though heh. For equal amounts of money, lets say $10k not including the car, which do you think would be faster around the track? Also, which do you guys think could be made lighter? They both start out at about the same weight (a '90 miata weighs in at 2105 dry for the base model.) Without changing the engine or spending a heap could the 240z be made lighter than the Miata with an equal amount of work done to it? I really cant decide which is better because while the miata is much newer and is renowned for its suspension but the 240z has also been known to hold its own, still winning races over 30 years later. I know quite a bit about both cars and have driven both hard and I have a hunch which might do better but its still up in the air for me. Anyway, what do you guys think?

ooo that is possible, but I think in this case unlikely. Oh and if anyone cares this is on a Z32 and the guy is in his mid 20's. I also recieved this later on... dxpong: I talked it over with a professor at my uni dxpong: due to an increase in HP/Torque is what's allowing the car to run at a lower RPM to KEEP the car at speed

Ok, a friend of mine is trying to tell me that now that he has installed iridium plugs he is seeing less rpm at a fixed speed than before. I am telling him this is impossible because engine speed + gearing = actual speed. There is no way to change the mph you are going at a certain rpm other than changing the gear ratio or by changing the wheel/tire size. Although I havnt posted in a while and do not own a Z, I know this forum to be the most technicly saavy and knowledgable I have ever come accross. Anyway, here is the aim conversation. dxpong: I get less RPM all around at the usual speeds dxpong: like at 5th gear going 70MPH, i'm at 3k RPM, but after the plug change I was running at 2,750 RPM drumlightning5: thats physically impossible dxpong: nah drumlightning5: yes, actually it is dxpong: hotter spark = less RPM drumlightning5: no sorry drumlightning5: its all gearing dxpong: yes, and efficientcy drumlightning5: no drumlightning5: hold on a second dxpong: I'll link you dxpong: http://www.densoiridium.com/tunerstales.php drumlightning5: your engine is spinning the flywheel at 3000 rpm which in turn spins the tranny whichs spins driveshaft to diff witch has another gear reduction which spins the wheels drumlightning5: the engine speed is what determines speed drumlightning5: efficency has nothing to do with it

Just as everyone said they are the best non race tire there is for corners. I hear that they are pretty heavy though. Most people say that the weight is well worth it though so go for it. Oh and for drifting nothing beats Falkens and Advans...so I hear anyway.

I wouldent think it would be XP causeing the problem because someone said earlier they are using win2k. win2k and winXP are very similar when it comes to the way everything works. win98 to win2k however was a huge jump and pretty much everything about the operating system changed. Therefore my vote goes to the serial voltage. You could always partition and try it though, wouldent hurt.

thanks alot guys. I knew the design was way better but I dident know how big of a difference it made. Also thanks for telling me it all happens in the first few inches, thats just the info I was looking for!

ok quick question. which would be better at cooling? One is long but has a shorter core, the other is short but has a longer core. Both are top-down flowing. Also I assume since the one is so long it would have more effect on "lag", would it be significant? I do like the design of the longer one alot better than the shorter one though. I would do some research and try to figure it out but I let a friend borrow my copy of maximum boost. thanks guys. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2480016252&category=33742 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2480181206&category=33742

sorry this is fairly off topic but applys to the idea of spending money on tools to save money. recently my dad and I went in halves on a miata for autocrossing. We have been trying to decide if we should spend some money on some DIY alignment tools. Not only would we save $50+ everytime one of our cars needs an alignment but we would be able to fine tune the alignment on the miata and toy with settings etc. the laser camber/caster tool is $240 and is suposed to be pretty accurate and we were looking into just going with the sting method for doing toe even though thats the setting that needs to be the most accurate imo. I couldent find a toe tool that was relitivly inexpensive so thats the next best thing I guess.

when ever I see WRXs run at the local auto-x they are pretty slow. I was shocked the first time I saw one go out. I expected them to get much better times than they did. It wasent just a poor driver either, this is a general impression after seeing 5+ WRXs run. at one auto-x when the corolla and a few civics were running 32s, the 2 WRXs were getting 35s. It blew me away.

240z turbo: what length rods do you run? also out of personal curosity while I am asking stuff what are your cam specs? I would think its not really the stroke that matters but the length of the rods. The setup I had in mind was a 280 crank, l20a rods, ka24 pistons. this gives you 2.95l displacement and a 1.71 rod/stroke. It seems like a hot ticket to me.

well its not a Z but it was my first real experience working on a car. Someone at work forgot to put coolant in a '97 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 and it overheated and wouldent run. So...they decided it would be a good project for me to work on. They handed me the company credit card and said "make it work". I had no idea what I was doing but I luckily overestimated the project. I thought it was going to be really tough, take me forever, and I would mess up all over the place, but it was actually kinda easy, pretty straight forward. I ended up replacing the top end gaskets and taking the heads in to get magnafluxed and checked. One head was cracked and the other was just warped a bit and needed a rebuild. I got both heads back (including a rebuilt one from a junk yard to replace the cracked one) a few days later, slapped them on and put everything back together last night. I dident bolt up the exhaust manifolds cause it was late and I had to get home, but I couldent resist trying to fire it up. It started right up after a seconed or two pumping gas to the injectors and ran really smooth. I made sure to turn it off right away though so as not to warp the valves. I cant wait to go out there today and finnish so I can drive it up to the main office and hand my boss the keys. After this experience I feel I am pretty ready to take on a Z. Just gotta find one now

yeah I pick this magazine up at the store because of this. its a pretty neat guide. the momo start seat looks to be perfect!

doesent a Z turn into a plane at that speed? I would think some sort of g-nose type thing and one heck of a front air dam would be needed to keep that thing from doing a few flips. Why spend so much money when you can only do it on the salt flats? how about one bad ass auto-x/track car. you could still take that to the mountains for some fun. just my 2c on the whole idea.

but its sooooooo cool. and can you imagine how it would scream at 8k+ rpm? I get chills thinking about it. sure the dizzy is in the back and all but it is still one of my favorite motors of all time.

If you go 4age you HAVE to go with the 20 valve version. 5 valves per cyl and individual throttle bodies!!! talk about a motor that sings. go here to get one imported from japan for $600 - http://www.venus-auto.com