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L28 flat top piston sources


z-ya

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Hey Dan,

 

I'm rebuilding a motor for Beth's car, and I'm trying to stay in a budget. I just got a price from Courtessy and they are around $300 a set. They don't seem to be available aftermarket. I may also build a 3L using the L24 rods I have with KA24 pistons which are cheaper. It all depends on if the block I have needs boring (it's at 0.020 over now). Decisions, decisions... If I have to bore it, I may go all the way and bore it to 89mm. Did you have your block bored locally? I found a place near my house that has bored an L28 before after a sonic test.

 

Pete

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Sealed power? You can get them from any advance. You could also try Birmingham Piston Warehouse in Bham Al, they have lots of stuff in stock, and when I got ARP head studs from them, they were cheaper then anyplace I could find them on the internet.

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Guest norm[T12SDSUD]

Beware cheap pistons!!!

I had a guy try and sell me some once and when I weighed them the heaviest to lightest varied by THIRTY grams!! Try and get that motor to balance out!!!

 

 

 

later,norm

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Pete,

I think with KA24 pistons and L28 crank, you'd have to use L20 rods, as with L24 rods you'd have low compression with the pistons 1.37mm below the deck (using the ol' Lengine calculator). You'd also want to shave off the raised .5mm ring so you could use the 1mm HKS gasket. That'd give you maybe 10.6:1 CR (Lengine calculator screws up when shaving dished pistons, it wouldnt be as low as the 10.26:1 it calculates). You could just throw in the diesel crank and use L24 rods, of course!

 

I got my KA24 pistons for $240 from Riley at Lynchburg Nissan. Not too shabby. I still wouldn't think $300 to be too much for Nissan L-series flat-tops.

 

My engine was originally built in North Carolina, orchestrated by Riley (then at Tarheel Nissan). Recent rebuild was done at Abacus Racing in Newport Beach, VA, where they took it to 89.5mm. Min wall thickness is down to a pretty uniform .100" (yikes!), apparently the bores are pretty well-centered.

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You sure it needs to be bored out? Would save a few $$ just to install new flat-tops. It now occurs to me you won't likely want 10.5:1 CR in the wife's street car, so with the KA options you'd use the 2mm gasket, right? You can remove sheaves from it to tailor the CR to what you want, BTW. The one in my car is actually a 1.17mm gasket (two thin + one thick layer from the 2mm gasket).

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I'm going to drop the bock off next week to have it tanked, and have the bores checked. If it doesn't need boring, I'll just hone it and put new flat tops in.

 

If it does need boring, I'll probably bore it to 89mm if the bloack passes sonic testing. If it doesn't pass, I'll just bore it to 0.040 over (it's at 0.020 now) and put flat tops in.

 

If I do bore it to 89mm, why can't I use the L24 rods, and Ka24 pistons? Acording to LEngine, the CR would be 8.87:1 (L28 crank, N47 head, no fly cut, 1mm gasket). Yes, the deck height would be -1.37mm, but does that really matter? A CR of 8.87:1 would be decent for the street I would think.

Still could probably run 89 octane in it.

 

BTW, Courtessy sells the Nissan flat tops for $49 for club members, which is cheaper than Advance auto's aftermarket ones.

 

Pete

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get some early Z22E or Z22S pistons. they are an 87mm bore, so you could get 88mm bore and they have a 35.5mm pin height, with L24 rods and an L28 crank, that would be a .5mm positive deck clearence. don't know about the dish or not on them tho. plus, an 88mm bore is not nearly as risky as an 89mm bore. I would imagine you would not even need sonic testing to go that route. I think I may go this route when I rebuild my short block. either that or deisel 140mm rods with a slightly offset bushing and VG30E turbo pistons in a +1mm bore. MMMMmmmmm booost!

 

McAdam

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I doubt it will need boring, thats like saying the L series crank needs to be turned.

 

I like it when I took my crank to the machine shop and told them to polish it, and they said, we'll check it and cut it if it needs it, and I said, "it won't need it". It didn't. never seen one that did.

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I doubt it will need boring' date=' thats like saying the L series crank needs to be turned.

 

I like it when I took my crank to the machine shop and told them to polish it, and they said, we'll check it and cut it if it needs it, and I said, "it won't need it". It didn't. never seen one that did.[/quote']

 

Are you serious? Are you talking about your crank and block or all L series cranks? I'm confused...

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