Guest jjohart Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Hi, ever since I had an I/C installed, the car has been really stumbling on initial-warm-restarts. I have had the tech check the BOV and intake line for any leaks (he even used a smoke machine!)..no leaks. I just got the car back from head gasket work, and even though it is way cold near Boston, the fully warmed up car, when shut off and then restarted, cranks for much longer than when TOTALLY COLD (i.e, 4-5 secs, sounding like a bad battery-tested as fine recently-vs 1/2 sec when totally cold!). Furthermore, it stumbles as if to stall out, the lights flicker/dash blinks, and it eventually stabilizes, but sometimes without response to throttle input, only letting it run its course X 10-20 secs. A Any clues on what to tell the mechanic to look at? The I/C installer tech said it might be the AFM door, and started hinting how I'd might do better with the Ford Cobra set up/Jim Turner, which is a lot of money to speculate on this cause/solution over. There must be something else to check, eh? Thanks John-83 ZXT 48K miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Sounds like too much fuel....maybe a leaky injector(s)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest miloz31 Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 I would check the battery, alternator and ignition system. Make sure you have enoug juice to make a good spark. By the way its JIM WOLF TECHNOLOGY and not Jim Turner, if you decide to go with a COBRA MAS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 loose battery terminal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 Just go with Z31 ECU swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 unplug the ecu, connect it back. tps clean connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 ....do you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on (before you start it)....could be the fpr is leaking down.... i wouldnt recommend the JWT thing unless you are really profficient at working on these cars (or know someone who is)....is not (or may not be) the plug and play thing they make it out to be... ....i've had 2 of them (the first was made from a defective core) so they upgraded me (for free) from the 2.5 bar to 4 bar map.....that just changed it from surging at idle (warmed) to surging most all the time.....(the car does run like a bat outta hell though)......i wouldnt use the JWT upgrade as a solution for an existing prob..... ....s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 Go stand alone and throw out the AFM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Ive got a spare z31 ecu your welcome to try.If it works I'll sell it cheap.Where around Boston are you?I work in Acton and live In Pepperell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 ....do you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on (before you start it)....could be the fpr is leaking down.... i wouldnt recommend the JWT thing unless you are really profficient at working on these cars (or know someone who is)....is not (or may not be) the plug and play thing they make it out to be... ....i've had 2 of them (the first was made from a defective core) so they upgraded me (for free) from the 2.5 bar to 4 bar map.....that just changed it from surging at idle (warmed) to surging most all the time.....(the car does run like a bat outta hell though)......i wouldnt use the JWT upgrade as a solution for an existing prob..... ....s dont do jwt upgrade until car runs good. If you do it when car is running bad it can run worse and create even more problems for you. Get the car to run right first then maybe jwt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Organdonor Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 When doing your upgrades did you rewire your fuel pump to bypass the fuel pump modulator (box that sits above the ECCS)? I had the same problem as you discribed on my 83zxt when I turned up the boost to 9lbs. It felt almost like having vapor lock. I rewired my fuel pump to come on with the ignition and haven't had a problem since. I hope your problem is as simple as mine was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest De Schmaydee Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 me? (organdoner)...if so .... i disconnected the fm...i dont remember doing any wiring there.... i did have to rewire the fuel pump relay and fuel pump....my car actually starts and runs really well. ...it just surges (usually at idle) after its warmed a little.....unless the weather is really cold......i'm gonna replace the stock manifold w/a N42 and put on a weber throttlebody (w/its own air bypass) and see if getting rid of the aac egr etc helps..... ....s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z-rific Posted January 26, 2004 Share Posted January 26, 2004 Check your timing to make sure you're not too advanced. Bump it back a little and take it for a drive to get it good and warmed. Then shut it off and wait about a minute and refire. See if it helps at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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