Chaparral2f Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 The search function still seems to be on vacation so here's the problem. My headers dump about three inches above the snout on the steering rack. I have been trying to figure a way to get a little more clearence for the exhaust pipe. If I lower the rack about an inch, how much will it increase the bump steer? Should I cut the steering arms and weld them up with an offset? I could do that but I kind of worry about strength, (Some things you just don't want to let go) Does any one have any sugesstions other than replacing the headers? Thanx joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Usually the cure for bumpsteer is to raise the rack. This is the case with our Z's too. If you lowered it, you would make the bumpsteer worse. An inch is a LOT. I would think that would drastically change the bumpsteer for the worse, but of course I've never done it. I definitely would be against the idea of cutting and rewelding your tie rods or steering knuckles too. The 510 guys heat their steer knuckles and bend them, then heat treat them for Ackerman, if you decide you have to mess with the knuckles, that's the way to go IMO. I'd either lift the motor (realize there would be driveshaft alignment issues to work out if you went this way) or get a different set of headers. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 I just had a thought. You could relocate your front control arms down by slotting the front crossmember as I have done. I slotted it to raise them up, but I see no reason why you couldn't go down if there is enough room on the crossmember to allow a little movement. This would lower your roll center (not a good thing) but you might have enough room to fix the bumpsteer if you moved the rack. All in all a bad thing to do, but not as bad as moving the rack down and leaving it be. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaparral2f Posted January 20, 2004 Author Share Posted January 20, 2004 Thanks Jon, I've been beating my head on this for about three days so far all I have is a headache. I have even considered hitting my localjy and looking for a longer rack. Mine is 19" and if it was 22 or 23" it would clear. of course then I'd have to come up with shorter steering knuckles. Just too show how untogether I am, I haven't been to a muffler shop to see just how much room I'd need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Can you get us some pics? How about modifying the headers? Or are already ceramic coated? It seems like a lot of work to modify your steering linkage to save a pair of headers.. IMO of course. Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 Maybe I'm thinking about this too hard because I'm bored, but now I'm thinking that moving the rack down would be a way to fix the bumpsteer. Same thing I said before applies, if you were to move it down an INCH you'd still need to slot the crossmember to fix the control arm angle, but I'm convincing myself that lowering the rack (probably like 3/8") would be another way to fix the stock bumpsteer issues. My reasoning: if the control arms sit flat relative to the tie rods, then you need to raise the control arm pivots or lower the rack to fix. Since I have raised the pivots, then I would assume that lowering the rack would also work. Very few move the rack on a Z, so I guess I wasn't thinking about it correctly before. I was getting confused with some other vehicles I've worked on... sorry. Jon PS How about denting the header? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaparral2f Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 The headers are already coated, and trucking is pretty slow right now so I can't really afford to replace them. However, I did finally get off my reear end and go to ask at some muffler shops in the area. I think I found a guy who thinks he can do the pipe. I thought of denting the pipe, or building a flat pipe like the crossover pipe on an old harley. If slotting the crossmember will work, I may have to try that. If nothing else works, just get ready for an old fart in a really loud ZX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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