World Class T5 and Tranny Tunnel Clearance

[Guest Anonymous]

If it needed any clearancing at all, it would probably be in the bellhousing area and removal of the stock datsun trans mount horns, I'm not sure if thats needed on a T5, I had to do a bit on the T56 which is considerably larger around and longer. Its not like you'd need to hammer for days though, with a T5 it would require little if any from what I've heard mentioned, others that have the T5 can confirm or ellaborate on this. Good luck.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[fl327]

dont think you need to hammer for trans clearance, but you should hammer for exhaust clearance, and remove stock datsun mounting horns,.

[strotter]

The only hammering I had to do with my WCT5 into my '72 was for clutch lever clearance. And at that, it was only a couple of smacks immediately behind the lever. If I had used some kind of cushion it would barely have left a mark, the steel is rather thin in that area.

[Guest Beefcake]

is there a difference between the t5 and the w.c(world class)T5? cause i was planning the same project. but my car was a man. then changed to an auto now i got to change it back(pre. owner went auto.)

[Guest thinkmonkey]

I've heard that when you install a T5 you need to widen the transmission tunnel, hammer style. If so how much wider and at what points does it need to be widened? I am about to paint the car (strip and dip) so I would prefer to do it now. I don't think I could bang away at freshly painted steel. Thanks.

 

-David

[DavyZ]

David: the JTR book says you don't need to smack a whole lot down there---some gentle 'massaging' is all that is needed. Plus, you should not notice any difference from inside the car.

 

Brian: WC T5 is supposed to have improved bearing syncronizers and be a bit stouter (?), but beyond that, I'm not so sure. If you can get one, do it.

 

Davy

[Guest Perry]

I just put the T5 in my 280Z. I had to remove the passenger side trans mount bracket (I'll take the other one off later but don't need to) and although I don't have the clutch slave cylinder in yet it looks like I will need to clearance the corner where the firewall/floorpan/trans tunnel all meet near the gas pedal. Like I said I don't have the cylinder in yet but I'm guessing like 1/2 inch will do. Beware though that from what I see others writing here it seems that not everyone's placement is the same with the JTR mounts. I could make it work without any clearancing if I didn't care that the shifter was not in the middle of the console.

Why not install the engine then paint the tunnel? You'll end up needing to touch up the engine compartment anyway for brackets added etc..

Perry

[Mike C]

The cases of the T5 are the same. (I have two regular, 1 wc and 1 Nissan on the floor of the shop right now.) WC has different alloy gears and paper cone synchronizers and requires ATF. Early brass ring synchro trans used 85w90 but I have heard that they last longer with ATF because it is better able to get into some of the tighter areas of the trans.

[Guest Fast Frog]

Dave Hanson:

 

Perry is exactly right! Cut the stock tranny brackets off and align your T-5 and drive shaft. Then you'll need to pound in about 3/4" of your lower driver side fire wall where the slave cyl is located. No other fabing is needed cept maybe cutting a 1/2" or so out of the left side of your shifter opening so the shifter won't rub on that side(remember, the T-5 shifter is canted 15 degrees to the left).