Push Button Ignition

[Z8]

I am completely rewiring my 240. I have a American Autowire set up and the switches that came with it are butt ugly.

I'd like to install a push button start with a toggle ignition switch, a search turned up some hits but the only wiring help was on splicing it into a Miata harness.

Can anyone help me wire this up right?

Thanks!

[TomoHawk]

If you go with a push-button starter, ewhat security features will you have? Are you planning on using the ign. switch to control the power?

thx

[Z8]

A toggle ignition switch will put power to the starter button. Security will be a hidden switch that cuts power to the ignition toggle. Plus with locked doors and nothing labeled the casual thief will be detered. I also know that if someone is a pro and really wants to steal your car, there's nothing you can do about it. I don't know if all accessory lines should go to the toggle or if I need a relay, etc.

[Guest smoov280zx]

I'd like to know too. This is the second ignition switch in about 2 years for my 83, it turns fine but I have to put pressure on the key in different directions each time to get it to actually trigger the starter when the key is in the start position. Couldn't I just run a wire off of the "ON" connector through a push button to the starter and have a "key required push-button start"?

 

By the way, I read the miata article but I dont know how closely it applies to a nissan electrical system. It seems to me by using the ignition switch like i said you could keep all of the factory wiring in place with no problem.

 

Oh, and i searched this forum

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Mitch

[TomoHawk]

As long as the ignition switch works well enough to turn on the power for the ignition, I think you are just fine. You could easily use a separate starter button to turn the engine over. Another button or switch for accessory items. I was considering doing the latter two things to increase the "cool" factor of my 280Z.

 

I just like to have a key-operated switch for the mains power for security.

[Z8]

A momentary switch wired between your ignition switch and starter would do the trick. My challenge is that I'm rewiring the whole car and not splicing into an existing harness. In my case I don't know what circuits I should wire to the toggle switch, if I get a few of 20 amp circuits on it should I do a relay? For that matter should I put a relay on the momentary switch? it will be conducting alot of juice to the starter.

Hopefully someone will see this thread that has some experience.

[TomoHawk]

I would put each 20 amp circuit on its own switch, with no relay, unless your switching more than 20 amps. Check the specs on the switch . They're probably for different functions any way.

 

the starter button should be fine by itself; it's only function is to turn on the solenoid that connects the battery direct to the starter motor. Until now, your ignition switch did that fine on it's own, and has less than 20 amps current capability.

[Guest smoov280zx]

Thanks for the replies. I wasnt trying to hijack your thread z8, just needed the info too Thanks for chipping in.

[Z8]

I have thought of putting each circuit on its own switch, but that's alot of individual switches. I was hoping to hit one switch to put power to the starter, interior lights, wipers/washer pump, etc. Sort of like the factory combination switch that triggers the accessorys along with the starter. But I'm not confident enough to just run the wires and see if it works, I would hate to fry my new MSD, or the new starter or set fire to the new wiring or ??

[TomoHawk]

The regular fuse panels only had about a dozen fuses, so you could eliminate certain circuits that need to be always on. Only about 3 or 4 circuits should be on switches like lights, accessories, headlights, engine. Small airplanes have a switch & circuit breaker for each circuit for safety. It's not a lot of switches (instrument panel doesn't look crowded). It sounds like you would want a battery disconnect switch inside the car, which is not uncommon.

 

Also, there are certain switches that contain integral fuses. Cool. 8)

[Z8]

Seperate circuits/switches may be the way I go, I have to fab a new dash center and console anyway. I also found some switches that would look great lined up.

A battery disconnect is part of my "secruity system", it has a key thats removable only when the system is off.

Thanks for your input.

[Guest Anonymous]

I also am completely re-wiring my 240. Only I'm running an aftermarket ignition switch. I will run a relay for my lighting system, heating system, and any other system that needs a heavier current load. I'm using manual resetable circut breakers for all of my systems. I'm mounting the circuit breaker system on the inside of the glove box door. The reset buttons will be facing me. I will also be running pvc on the underside of the fenders. Almost all my wiring will be inside this pvc. each end will be sealed. When you open the hood, you won't see hardly any wires. Each terminal end will be dipped in that electrical sealer stuff so they won't corode. This will be pretty easy to do as I'm running a carberated system, and manual gages.

[TomoHawk]

I found something interesting that's related to your project:

 

https://secure.visav.co.uk/avshop/products.asp

 

It's called "Grayston Starter Panel" 25 quid.

[Z8]

Thanks TomoHawk, I've seen prewired setups before. They typically run $50.00 or so. I bought a push button for $7.99 and a toggle switch for another $7.00.

I think I have it figured out on the ignition side. The ignition toggle will provide juice to the button and the MSD module. I think I can rewire the factory headlight/wiper/washer switch and the turn signal/horn switch with the new wiring.

The rest I'll put on switches and relays.

If you see any smoke rising from Columbusthis weekend- it's me

[TomoHawk]

the switch and the button are supposed to be on different circuits; the switch to enable the ignition, and the starter button to engage the solenoid ONLY.

[Bluto]

Heres a decent write up for a 3rd gen rx7 and a S2000 button.. some of it isnt relavent but its very thorough.

 

I think its been mentioned here befor or somewhere, but the s2000 start button fits very well in the lighter hole with abit of triming.

 

 

Push Button Start Installation Instructions

Last updated: September 2, 2002

(Editor's note: Jon wrote this for the start button from a Honda S2000 (i.e.- he got it at a Honda dealer). If you

have an aftermarket one like the Ignited button, the procedure may vary, so please check the wiring diagrams

and other instructions that come with your button. Other differences may occur as well (e.g.- might not need to

enlarge the cig. lighter hole).

 

 

 

From: Thomas, Jon (Jon.Thomas@dayzim.com)

Date: 07/03/2001 04:25 PM

 

Parts & Tools:

 

OEM S2000 button

auto relay w/4 blades (bought mine at Radio Shack, 30 amp minimum, around $5)

spool of 20 awg and 12 awg wire

many wire butt connectors (various sizes, some with and some without insulation)

various wire taps and blade connectors

very small shrink wrap

mounting media (used super glue and 3M tape)

Dremel tool to slightly enlarge cig lighter hole (necessity)

wire tester (very helpful)

Install Time: takes appox. 4 hours for complete job

 

Install cost: Total - approx. $50

 

Assuming you have all of the parts, these are the steps you should take to do the install.

 

By the way, I am not responsible for you vehicle or your installation procedures. These are the steps that I took

and if done correctly should give you the same results.

 

Disconnect negative battery terminal

 

 

Dismantling dash - First thing to do is take off all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel

(including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have

to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch. Check the better RX-7 How To

sites if you would like help dismantling this part of the car (that is what I did).

 

 

Prepping the button - You will need to open the switch to verify exactly which leads go where and compare

them the wiring diagram that we have provided, double check the configuration. We cut off the plastic

(used for the factory S2000 harness) surrounding the 5 leads with the Dremel tool. We cut off the two leads

that are not used inside the button in order to allow more room to connect wires to the remaining 3 leads

(which you will notice is not that much room, we actually bent them slightly apart too). Of the remaining three

leads, the middle one should be the common power lead for the light and the button. The lead on one side

will be the ground for the light where as the other lead will be the lead for the button going to the relay

(see diagram). At this point you will want to attach your 20awg wires to all three leads with bare/un-insulated

butt connectors. We used three different colors of wires (ex. red for power, black for ground, green for the relay),

this made it easier later on to distinguish the switch leads. Leave plenty of wire attached to the leads just in case

you need it later on. Take the shrink-wrap tubing and place it around the connections so that the leads never

touch and short out. We then wrapped the wires in 5†of wire loom to keep them all together and easier to work

with. You can then set the button aside for later mounting.

 

 

 

 

Prepping the mounting location – You must first remove the cig. Lighter and all associated pieces, save

and set them aside for now. The remaining hole is too small to accommodate the button. So, we took the

Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and ground down the inner edges of the hole until it fit perfect

(btw don’t breath the burning ABS plastic fumes, they are toxic). Take off a little at a time and keep trying to

see if it fits. Remember it is better to go slow instead of taking a bunch of material off and making the hole

too big. Stop when you are able to slide the button through the hole and notice that it fits flush with the seat

just snug (it does not need to be tight).

 

 

Mounting the button – Take the button and place it in the hole. We made sure the words are facing upwards

correctly and applied a little bit of super glue on the back of the chrome ring of the button. This helped it from

not turning inside the hole. Next we wrapped the button housing with one piece of 3M double-sided tape and

placed the original plastic cig. lighter heat shield around the button, securing it with the two screws

(the plastic housing may only touch the button housing in a few spots). We also wrapped tape around the

back of the button and the screwed in mount from the cig lighter. This helped to hold the back of the button.

You now have the button mounted in its new home. You can now turn the gauge cluster over to see what it is

going to look like (sweet isn’t it).

 

 

Wiring the key switch harness - Since you have all the dash parts off, you should be able to see the harness

that is running into the key switch assembly. The harness runs under the steering column and to the left side

of the column and then down the column from there (just follow it from the key hole and you will find it). Detach

the harness at the back of the key switch. You will need to cut one wire from the harness and tap into another.

Cut the 12 awg starting wire on the key switch harness. It will be a black wire with a blue stripe

(see wiring diagram). Once the cut has been made, tape off the end that is going into the key switch.

Next, take a 36†long piece of your 12 awg wire and connect it to the other end of the black and blue wire

you just severed, use a shielded butt connector. Next tap into, DO NOT CUT, the black with green stripe wire

with another 36†long piece of 12 awg wire & wire-tap. Re-connect the factory harness into the key switch.

 

 

Wiring the relay –Bring in the gauge cluster with the newly mounted switch. Select a home for the relay, we

choose to 3M tape it to the back side of the upper gauge cluster supports (but don’t stick it in place yet, just

know where you are going to put it so you can trim all the wires accordingly). Run the wire form the start button

switch to the relay using female blade connectors, taking care to route them under supports and such. You don’t

want to crimp or pinch any of these wires when re-assembling the dash. Use the wiring schematic for details.

Now run the middle wire from the button to something that is powered up by the “ON†position of the key switch

(WARNING do not use the “ACC†position, the starter will work but the engine will not start). We tapped into the

cruise control power lead (which you have to test to get the right wire on the cruise harness, I believe it was the

third from the left, but double check it). The last wire on the button goes to a common ground. The other blade

on the relay also goes to a common ground. .BTW, we tapped both grounds (button & relay) into the Cruise

Control ground. The last two 12 awg wires will need to go up to the relay. Connect these using female blade

connectors also.

 

 

Test – Place the ground cable back on the battery and do not tighten. Place the key in the ignition and turn to

the “ON†position. Push the start button!!! It should start right up. Turn the engine off and finish up. If it does

not start recheck all connections including the battery.

 

 

Reassemble dash – Put the dash back together.

Note: The switch was $30 from http://www.handaaccessories.com or http://www.handaparts.com, which are direct

factory OEM parts.

 

We wired it so the key has to be in the run position, when in that position the button can be pushed to start the

engine. If I turn the key to start (factory) it does nothing but spring back to the run position. The light for the

switch comes on when the key is in the accessories position.

 

________________

 

Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 08:31:52 +0100

From: "Bernd Kluesener" (bernd.kluesener@stt.se)

 

At the ignition switch:

 

Black/red wire: start

Black/white wire: run

Black wire: supply from battery (2 cables)

Blue wire: accessories (cig lighter, audio system etc)

Black/yellow wire: wiper motor, power window, sunroof, ABS

 

_________________

 

From: Thomas, Jon (Jon.Thomas@dayzim.com)

Date: 07/03/2001 03:48 PM

 

The relay is a definite need for this mod. We did notice that on the Mazda wiring diagram it is pulling

40 amps. We used a 30 amp relay just b/c it was easier to come by. If you can find a 40 amp relay I

would use it. With me living in Phoenix, AZ, i don't believe I am going to have much of a starting problem,

so it wasn't too big of a concern for me. Someone that lives elsewhere might be a little more concerned with

the amperage.

 

_________________

 

(Editor's note: I sent an email to TDSA, which is where I bought my Ignited brand push button. Here is their

rsponse. --Steve)

 

From: TDSA SPORTS (tdsasports@yahoo.com)

Date: 07/25/2001 12:37 PM

 

> I bought one of your start buttons, and had a

> question: The install instructions say that a

> 40 amp relay is required. But what are the specs?

> I have found a couple of kinds: SPDT, and SPST.

>

> What kind is required?

 

Any 30 amp - 40 amp relay is acceptable.

[Nismo280zEd]

It's pretty easy to wire, up, cut the wire from the ignition switch that goes to the actual starter... thats the wire that starts the car when power is given. I have mine setup so you put the key in turn the switch to on, then press the starter button. I have it relayed using a 45 amp relay and a heavy duty racing switch hidden under the steering column. I have my switch on the ground wire not the power.

[TomoHawk]

If you have the starter vbutton hidden under the dash, why bother with it at all?

[Nismo280zEd]

mines not for looks, its for theft (well hidden)

[RB26powered74zcar]

back from the dead....http://www.miatanet.com/garage/pushstart/