Mounting LS1 in a 78

[Briguy280Z]

Maichor and Cyrus or Anyone

 

The forum for mounting an LS1 in a 71 was filled with good information.

 

I am using S&P brackets to mount the LS1 in the car. The following is a link to a bracket that i will make and wondered if anyone can give me some measurements for this brackets from there own conversion...at least I will beable to compare to what i have figured out.

 

I am using original exhaust manifolds so it may not come out the same if you didnt...this is a hard conversion cuz I only have the weekends to work on it...the car isnt at my current residence.

 

I will make all my drawings available for others

Thanks for all your help

[jeromio]

I don't recommend using barstock unless you bolster it orthogonally - in other words, make the flat parts into a channel.

 

I think it would be easier to just start out using tubing - square or round.

 

Also, keep in mind that you will need to bolster the frame rails where this crossmember attaches. That's ~20ga metal there - not too strong.

[Phantom]

Contact Maichor. He has already built a cross member very similar to your design but using channel. I concur with Jeromio - you should not use flatbar for this application. It has too much ability to flex. I would recommend channel over square tubing, though, because it won't give you a hidden spot where moisture can accumulate and eventually cause rust through.

[Guest Anonymous]

I'd agree that any amount of boxing in that design would help alot (such as another piece of flat bar on the front and back the same width as your 'a' dimension. I'm not clear if you need the space outside of those raised blocks on each side, but a piece of like 2x3 boxed channel with a hole drilled through it for bolt access might do as well. As mentioned you'd want to definitely beef up the rail where it attaches, when I drilled mine for my radiator bracket I was bit disturbed with how flimsy the rails are. Good luck with it.

 

regards,

 

Lone

[maichor]

 

A) 6" when hanging the angle over the frame, 3" bolting below.

1 3/4"

C) 1 3/16"

D) 3 3/4" Passenger's Side and 4 1/4" Drivers Side

E) 17"

 

I used C channel so as not to accumulate water in tubing. My setup is overkill. I used 3/16" mild steel for the angles on the sides. On my setup the center cross member unbolts so I can drop the pan without removing the whole thing. I used 1/4" X 4" X 1 3/4" C channel. I welded lateral supports onto the angles and then welded the new cross member to the old one to prevent forward/rearward motion.

 

I could drop the car off a cliff and I think the mount would be the only thing left. I think 3/16" is plenty beefy. I wouldn't trust 1/8" stuff. Have at it!

<img border="0" alt="[2thumbs]" title="" src="graemlins/2thumbs.gif" /> http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104

[Briguy280Z]

Ok so it might have been a little more expensive to make it the otherway...i think it would of held.

 

I walked around work yesterday and i found some spare parts that i was going to use....These were the exact part that maichor used. These are some changes but minor. Maichor mensioned that it was 6" total hight or from the top of the frame? Well check it out.

 

Thanks for all your help

[cyrus]

Hey whats sup all. Big guy buy the vette motor mounts and brackets and use channel or box it will be so much easier. I might get pix up.