Guest SagZ Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Well... I've told the wife now that I'm 32 I either get a mistress or a project car. After the swelling goes down and I can see again, we 'settle' on a project car. Now I've been reading these forums for quit some time and I've very impressed by the honesty here, so my questions are these: 1. How hard is it to do this conversion? 2. Is there alot of fabrication? 3. Does it require welding skills? 4. The most technical thing I've done to a car is replace a timing belt on an 85' Dodge Daytona Turbo... am I dreaming? 5. Could I have a mechanic do some of the more difficult tasks involved. My degree is in Electronic Engineering but I'm a Network Admin by trade. My automotive knowledge is all theory and no practice. The other option I'm looking into is a Fisher Fury kit car which I would use a Motorcyle engine for and I'm told just regular garage tools would be required. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Even If I don't go this route I'll still be lurking these forums... you guys are a great read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
labrat Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Well, that all depends on exactly what you want to do, and how far you want to go, and how "creative" you can get. I managed to get my swap done with simple hand tools, a good craftsman electric drill, and a 9" disc grinder from a pawn shop. If you are going to be rebuilding the engine you use, you will need some other specialty tools, but by and large, just for the motor swap, you really shouldn't need too much. I think you could definitely do this swap if you can change a timing belt, some of those are a real bitch! And the best part of all, if you run into something you just can't figure out, there are 2000+ HybridZ members just a keystroke away with more assistance than you can throw a wrench at! I guarantee, no matter how good they are, that no kit car has EVER had tech support as good as the forum you just posted in. Never. Just my $.02 Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Hey there SagZ, I think you should go for it! I am kind of in the same boat as you only Im a mechanical engineer. I have done some lite mechanic work in the past but nothing like this. I have found that the JTR book is really easy to follow. I dont know how to weld either and have had no problems. I did however have to find someone to fabricate my roll cage. I would just keep the swap simple. Try not to stray too much from what the JTR manual says. You should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jdllaugh Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 A Z conversion doesn't have to be that hard -- if you have a perfect body and go with the standard 350 sbc, JTR conversion. Get the JTR book and give it a read. The project is doable with basic hand tools and determination. That said, buy the kit car. You're never going to find a perfect Z body. Repairing the rust and dents and cleaning off 30 years of accumulated crud is a major project on any Z car. And, when it comes to the install, if you stray off the JTR path even a little bit you end up hip deep in some pretty sticky stuff. I started out with the goal of finding a rust-free 240z and doing a straightforward install. Now my car is stripped, mounted on a home-built rotisserie with the rusty floors cut out waiting for me to bend up some replacements. I've had to learn to weld and I've bought more tools than I knew existed before I began this project!!!! Last but not least, the point of these projects is to do it yourself. I'm a magazine editor -- not a mechanic. I'm doing this project because I enjoy the work. Figuring out the tough stuff is part of the fun. I may send it out for paint in the end, but I plan to solve the rest of the puzzle on my own -- with the help of HybridZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Im also a retired engineer I worked for AT&T before retireing, while you might get into areas that require you getting help your easily able to do this, its very easy if you think it through, the only thing you really need is the desire and some place to work on the car and that JTR manual a few hand tools,and engine stand this site and a good engine crane (you can always rent that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Hey, a fellow electrical engineer. I too am in the information technology field. I say take your time and decide which car you will be more excited about owning. Hard work is hard work and there isn’t anything an engineer can’t do. About finding a good rust free z car…..from what I am hearing here. I found one of the only ones out there. In other words, take your time and be patient, your car is out there. First step, what car do you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 Howdy, Sag! I'll take a stab at the questions one by one... 1. How hard is it to do this conversion? If you want to do it in 2 weeks on a budget of $1,000, it'll eat your lunch. If you have time, patience, and a little money, it's not difficult at all. Like they said above, get the JTR book and read all about it. It's very well documented, and there's almost no fabrication required. Like they say in mathematics, just plug and chug. 2. Is there alot of fabrication? Not if you go with a Chevy 350, 4-speed auto, and follow the JTR book's recommendations. The more radical you get, the more fabrication you have to do. 3. Does it require welding skills? Not that I've ever heard. Now, refurbishing the floorpans on a rusted Z will, but not installing the V8. (By the way - don't be scared of welding. It's not complicated or expensive, and it will make your friends look at you with awe when you tell them that you can weld. ) 4. The most technical thing I've done to a car is replace a timing belt on an 85' Dodge Daytona Turbo... am I dreaming? If you managed to smoothly shift gears in a manual transmission Dodge Daytona Turbo, you're going to be able to do this swap. When I got out of my sister's Daytona, I shook the dust from my sandals. That was the most miserable excuse for a transmission I've ever encountered. 5. Could I have a mechanic do some of the more difficult tasks involved. Sure, but I don't think you'd have to. The toughest thing about the V8 swap is getting the headers to clear the steering shaft. Everything else (assuming carbureted 350 and auto tranny) has been so well documented that you shouldn't have a problem. The main problem people seem to have is that they try to rush through simple procedures instead of taking their time and doing it RIGHT. This ain't rocket science, bub. Just look at some of the people on this list for evidence of that! The other option I'm looking into is a Fisher Fury kit car which I would use a Motorcyle engine for and I'm told just regular garage tools would be required. I can't help but think that they're blowing sunshine up your butt. NO kit car is that easy to build. "Some assembly required" is code phrase for "You'll never finish it." The Z has about a billion advantages over a kit car. When done properly, it's going to be a solid, well thought out car that can be enjoyed on the street, in rainy or cold weather, and won't require a trailer to take it from place to place. Just my .02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 I feel compelled to add my experience here. It wasn't that long ago that I was in your exact position. Now it feels great to be able to share my personal experience and give a little back. I have 2 project cars, one being a 71 240Z with a Chevy 355 in it. I had looked into alot of other vehicles (kit cars included) that would fit my needs. These needs were owning something different that most people had never seen, an all around serious performance vehicle that is daily driver capable and, lastly, something that I felt I could do myself with my limited experience and learn along the way. Choosing the 240Z was an educated decision and I dont regret it. All I have left to do to the car to make it run is the wiring and swapping out the diff. I've already dropped the engine and 700r4 tranny in place as well as done most upgrades to the car that are listed in the JTR manual. I did everything with hand tools from Harbor Freight (cheap but they work fine), a borrowed cherry picker (thanks SuperDan), a floor jack and jackstands, the JTR book and THIS SITE. I'm no mechanic although Im pretty well read on the subject of engines and performance vehicles. The JTR book is simple and straight forward. Anything that I didnt quite understand was answered in short order on this website. Now why the Z car? It's a great looking classic car that is a true sports car right out of the box. Driving even a stock early Z car just feels like a drivers car. They are low and sleek with that unmistakable classic sports car feel. Very easy to drive at the limit and they respond VER well to upgrades that are cheap by todays standards. Also, you CAN find a solid, straight bodied car with a blown engine for CHEAP. I got mine for $500. The decision is yours. I will agree with the statement made above about tech support tho. You wont get even a fraction of the help and information available on this website for any kit car. Think about that before you make your choice. Making the decision is the easy part. When you have the car in your garage on jackstands and you are at your wits end about the next step and how the hell you are supposed to accompish it...that's when this great website and the poeple that have been there will hold SO MUCH value to you. I wish you luck! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SagZ Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 See, I knew posting here would help me decide. I've had a love for the Z's since 88' (since my friends 280z wiped the floor with my 85' Daytona Turbo). I've informed my wife that I'm searching for a 72-78 Z car (she just rolls her eyes), and I'm ordering the JTR manual as we speak. Thanks guys for the feedback, I look forward to picking your collective brains!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgiaz Posted October 19, 2002 Share Posted October 19, 2002 It is probably not necessary, butI must chime in. If it were not for this web site I would not be building a car that is going to make the locals sit up and take notice. The whole concept had previously escaped me until I stumbled accross you guys. Althogh mine is not yet complete I am convinced that a V8 Z is something to be reconed with. 300 horses with a th350 transmission should give the mustangs and buzz bombs something to think about. JTR tells us how to do it. This web site tells us how to make it work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Phil1934 Posted October 26, 2002 Share Posted October 26, 2002 I just got the manual, found a junkyard V8 T5, and have an old 350 at the machine shop. My questions are is the JTR speedo cable different than a Chevy at the gauge or is it just a matter of getting one the right length? I'll pick up a driveshaft adapter locally and make the rest of the brackets. I've got a good 3rd gen Camaro V6 rad, if dimensions check I guess I can use. If I go block huggers I guess I have to spring for coating, so will probably go ram's horn. Why is swept back ram's horn needed if straight down block huggers fit? Someone was advertising these for $99 each. Know who? Lastly is anyone running the 2 2-1/2" inlet Flowmaster muffler? Seems like the easy way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 26, 2002 Share Posted October 26, 2002 The only deal I've heard about using flowmaster muffler is that they like a bit more tail pipe on the end to sound right, thats heresay granted, but your ears comfort levels may be effected as the flows can be pretty nasty sounding when rev'ed (thats good and bad, good in the way it sounds (for me about a week of it and I'm ready for quiet) and bad because it attracts attention. If you like the sound of flows (I personally don't not that it matters, just to pipey sounding to me), you may want to consider at least 3 chamber, the 2 chambers will drone so bad on the highway (IMHO) that you'll regret them after a time, of course one could put a bullet muffler in the tunnel to try and break that up. Just an opinion of course. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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