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gmc 350 for my z????


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

OK this probably sounds like dumb question but i have a frriend taking a 350 out of a 75 to 78 or so gmc saburban. It burns oil a little and so on but they are basically almost about willing to give it to me. No if i am correct the 350 can be overbored and so on to 383. which is my goal. gmc and chevy i remember being the same.?? so do you think this would be a good doner for my z. it would be the jtr style conversion. MOst lickly i will just swap it for now and rebuild it a little later when the money is there. BUt hehe i am really just looking for some support and information on this motor thanks zach.

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Guest Fast Frog

A 383 is a 350 with a 400 crank with the end journels ground .200 to fit the end mains of the 350, then bored out .030 over to get 383 ci. You can get a 388 out of it by boring .050-any more and you start thinning the cyl walls to much.

 

Another aspect of the 383 is the piston rod setup. The easy way is to use 400 rods so you don't have to grind off part of the rod bolt to make cam clearance. Or you can spend xtra $$ and get a good set of 5.7 rods which give you better quench, no cam interference, and slightly better revving capabilities. Also, in addition to balancing the internal moving components, a 383 is also externally balanced.

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I know you run into clearancing issues if you go with the 6 inch rod and that is where some have really gotten into trouble. I'd go with the 5.7 LT1 "Pink" rod, which is what I have been using, which are cost effective and good to 600hp!

 

Yes, you should have a 4 bolt block in that truck, nice foundation for a strong runner!

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Also consider the new GM PM rods. These are supposed ot be even stronger than the Pink rods, are better balanced, and pretty cheap too! If the Pink will work these should too...

 

Heh, I went with Eagle stuff for mine - it wasn't too bad as part of a kit.

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