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Rear hatch latch alternative setup?


Savage42

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I used a solenoid. $15 from the junk yard. The only problem is finding one that is skinny enough to fit in the hatch. Most of the trunk release ones are too big around. I found a power door lock solenoid out of an Infinity that fit really well. It swings (like the flippers on a pinball machine) rather than pulls so I just bent the latch actuating arm up like a ramp. The flipper swings up the ramp and presses down the latch and "pop" it opens. I had to add a spring to retract the flipper because as a door lock it power rotates both ways. Ran the wire up the hatch and in just like the rear window defogger wires. Momentary switch in the glove box.

 

Best part is, this mod keeps your car ALL NISSAN!!!!!! :lol::lol:

 

Oh wait, the switch came from a Firebird. :D

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I did mine the 'sort of cheezy but cheep' way. I used a hood pull cable from a Honda CRX that was free (yah yah, guess what; I'm using the seats too! $25/pair it was a deal! :lol: ) and drilled a hole in the bottom of the hatch (inside) and a smaller hole through the latch tab/thingy that the push button used to hit. Ran the cable up the inside of the hatch, looped a bit where the hatch joins the roof (to allow for open/closing of hatch) and screw the handle to the inside panel behind the seat. It's not too pretty, but it works. I had to do something, as I have installed a whale tail and molded it to the hatch, covering the hole anyway. I'll try to get some pics up soon of my progress on the body, and I'll throw a few in of my hatch cable setup.

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Guest ON3GO

heres what im doing.

feel free to steal the idea :D

im using Zuse fasteners along the bottom right in front of the BRE wing, yes you will need a "key" or flat head screw driver to open the hatch then but i think it will look cool and work great.

 

mike

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Guest 305240

Good idea Datsunlover! I was wondering what I was going to do when I put my spoiler on. I think it will look all business inside right next to the roll bars. I'll just tell people it pops a chute when I need to stop at the strip...lol..

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This is what I have done.

I still have not refined and finished the install, but it works great.

 

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/album?.dir=/Hatch+Release+Mod&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/my_photos

 

This is a quick write up on the mod.

 

Cable Pull Hatch Latch

 

Here are some details on my cable operated hatch release.

It is the first prototype, so things may change. (although, it works very well)

Please note that this is open source information. Anyone with other ideas on making this mod, please update this information.

 

Parts used

 

- A stock 260Z hood release cable. (other cables am sure will work, I just had the hood release cable laying around so I used it)

 

- Remove the interior hatch cover panel.

- Remove the clip holding the hatch lock button and remove the lock button.

- (With the lock button gone, you can now see down in to the hatch and view the lock mechanism).

- (looking at the lock mechanism, thru the hole in the hatch) * Note the flat pad on the topside of the latch mechanism.

- Remove the 2 bolts holding the latch mechanism in place.

- (on the top side of the “flat padâ€) I made a center mark and used a drill bit to make an indent for the cable ball to rest in. (did not drill thru)

- I cut a slot thru the center of the pad to the center point I had marked.

- I then drilled a whole for the cable to come thru the hatch.

- (with the latch mechanism in place) I just sighted a hole under the center of the “flat pad†on the latch mechanism and drilled a whole just large enough to allow the cable housing to pass thru.

*** Very Important *** make sure you drill this whole in the hatch behind the seal surface, so the cable does not come in contact with hatch seal when the hatch is closed. (you can easily see the seal area marks)

- Bring the cable up thru the hole drilled and back out the latch whole. (having about 3 inches of cable out of the latch whole)

- Put the cable into the slot cut in the “flat pad†and crimp it. (I used vise grips to crimp the outer end on the “flat pad†to keep the cable from coming out)

*** Important *** (DO NOT crimp until everything is working and you are ready for the final install)

- Push cable back down thru its whole as you put the latch mechanism back in place.

- Mount and adjust the latch mechanism.

- Reinstall the rear hatch interior trim.

- I used 2 small clamps to align and mount the cable in the interior.

- I mounted the “cable pull handle†on the side panel just behind the driver’s seat.

*** Important *** (the hatch needs to be open to determine the mounting location of the cable pull)

 

That should give an idea of where to start if you care to do this mod.

Doug

 

Any ?`s, e-mail me valubes@yahoo.com .

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*** Very Important *** make sure you drill this whole in the hatch behind the seal surface, so the cable does not come in contact with hatch seal when the hatch is closed. (you can easily see the seal area marks)

 

:oops: Yah.. uh.. heh heh.. well, I screwed up on that one and my cable loops out and hit's the weather strip a bit.. :lol: oh well, it works.

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My conversion is rather elaborate, but if you are looking for a complete rear end change, it works very well. I removed the latch system from my 76 280 and built a whale tail that completely covers the old push button area. The latch I used is from an 80 280ZX and mounts on the deck between the backup lights. The cable I used is from a Z hood release, and I mounted it next to the drivers side rear strut tower. You can make new or modify the hasp and mount it to the hatch. The tailend will then need some mods to cover the latch assembly, but I was revamping the entire tail anyway. I know, lots of work, just the route I went.

Bill

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I have plans to use a longer cable (as datsunlover did), but run the cable inside the hatch (simular routing as datsunlover) and have the cable come back out of the hatch right where the hatch meets the inside top of the body (roof).

Then mount the "hand pull" closer to the drivers door.

This way the cable will be mostly unseen and out of the way.

Will not have to worry about the extra cable hanging needed so the hatch can open.

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