jgkurz Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Hi all, I am in the final stages of getting the rear disk brake converson done on my 77z. I have purchased the Modern Motorsports 240sx rear disk brake conversion. I have been impressed with how well the kit has been designed which has made the install soooo much easier. The question I have is whether or not I should remove the mount for the hardline that is next to the rear calipers. The mount is the one that is on the front lower side of the rear wheel-wells. I looks like the 240sx calipers might contact the mount if the suspension is fully compressed. Have any of you that used the 240sx kit had to grind this mount off? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 I have not used that brake system but here are my thoughts. If you are not using the mount, and you have no intention of going back to disk brakes... what do you need to keep the mount on there for? Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted June 10, 2004 Author Share Posted June 10, 2004 The mount currently is used with the 240sx conversion. It holds the hardline in place where the steel braided line connects. If I remove the mount I believe it would still work, it just won't be as secure. I'm just curious if anyone has removed the mount for this conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Do you mean the one in red in this picture? As you can see I left it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 So how long did it take you to do the conversion? Parking brake cable hook up OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Opinion again here but since you say it is being used to hold the hard line where the hose and hard line come together I would in that case leave it there. The reason is because even though the hard line is ridged it is going to be flexing somewhere at the other end because it is no longer supported, that means sooner or later you are going to get a fatigue crack in your hard line and that would be bad. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted June 11, 2004 Author Share Posted June 11, 2004 Thanks everyone for your responses. The installation took me several hours, but I'm a very slow mechanic. I broke it up into several sessions. I'd guess it would take someone more competant than myself the better part of a Satuday afternoon to do the whole conversion. The hardline mount in the picture is the one I'm talking about. I definatley DO NOT want to remove the mount if I don't have to. My only conncern is impacting the mount with the caliper when the suspension compresses. My test was to jackup the control arm as high as it would go. When I did this it hit the mount about 3/4 way up. : ( My test may have not been real world so I think I'll do the same as Drax240z and leave it as is for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted June 11, 2004 Author Share Posted June 11, 2004 Hi everyone, For two reasons I've changed my mind about leaving the hardline mounts on the car. One, Ross C emailed me and recommended removing them for my installation. He has seen many installations so I think I'll take his advice. Second, there is no way around the fact that the mounts will hit my calipers if hit a large bump or bottom out the suspension. To get around this and still have safe brakes I will use steel braided lines up to custom length hardlines. Each line will connect at the T block then come out to the wheelwell. I have already installed a 20" hardline. I need to buy a 10" hardline tomorrow to complete the upgrade. As for the ebrake, you will need to swap the left cable to the right and right to the left. To do this you need to unhook the ends and cross them above the differential. They line up perfectly after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted June 11, 2004 Share Posted June 11, 2004 Hey guys, My rear brake setups is not the modern motorsports one, but i did have an issue with the brakes mounts. I cut mine off and then relotcated the hardline mount by using the parking brake mount. Since the parking brake mount can be screwed in i could put it whereever i wanted. Heres a picture: -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 11, 2004 Share Posted June 11, 2004 I recommend removing both of them. The flex line arrangement on the driver's side is not ideal. I suggest anyone that is using that line setup on the driver's side check the line for wear. Mine wore through from rubbing on the body. I had the line fail going into turn 6 at NHIS. Good thing it was my warmup lap. Lost 80% of my braking power. The setup is OK on the passenger side, just make sure the 10mm to 3AN adapter is the correct one (10mm inverted flare to 3AN male). I got a 10mm flare to 3AN with mine line kit, and it not only leaked, but it also damaged the brass "T" block to the point where I had to replace it (it started leaking even with the correct adapter). On the driver side I suggest getting a length of new hard line, with the fittings attached and the ends flared. Connect it to the T-block and run it to just before the frame on the driver side. You can bend it to go over the fuel lines like the factory one. Then get a 10mm flare to 3AN male adapter (Earls, Russell). Buy a 15" long pre made braided SS line with a 3AN female on one end, and a 10mm banjo on the other. Russell Performance and Earls makes them. Use a cushion clamp to hold the SS line in place on the frame. This is what I did, and it's a much better setup. The line routing ends up being similar to the passenger side. Turn the banjo fittings in towards the half shafts, rather than the stock 240SX orientation. Yea, you ned up tossing the driver side line that Ross sent you, but it's worth doing it right the first time. Hope some of this helps, and save some hassles (and maybe lives!), Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest alien-e Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Notice the banjo fitting is just below the original hard to soft mount. It would be pretty tight even if the banjo fitting was bolted down in a different orientation. So, the bracket ends up being useless for this application. I agree, the bracket needs to be removed, and the new junction be right where the hard line currently enters the wheel well. However, the original bracket should be reproduced in a vertical orientation, and bolted where the hold down currently resides. (Notice: my hard line has been cut and capped) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Yep, the brackets need to go. I agree that the driver's side arrangement is less than desired. My intention is to slip a piece of split vacuum line over that portion of brake flex line that would contact the body. A couple of small ties wraps should keep it fixed. Some simple bracket could be incorporated to support the DS flex line near the body too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Yea, mine hit when I lowered the car to the ground and had to chop them. I used the bracket's and clips from the old brakes to hold the new SS lines in place. I owe alien-e a picture so when I get it look in his thread if your intrested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 For the Passenger side here's what I ended up doing. I had all the brake lines and fittings I needed so I changed it from the way Ross does it. I used an 8" long 3/16" brake line from the junction to the wheel well frame rail. I installed one of the brake clip mounts from the old drum brakes on to the rail and then ran the Drivers side Brake Hose that Ross supplied to the clip. http://www.circuitflex.com/Datsun_Pics/Brake_Line_Pass_1.jpg For the Drivers side I used the Passenger side hose with an adapter to a 20" long 3/16" brake line that I shortened up a bit by making a circular bend in it. I then mounted the hose to the frame rail in the wheel well with a rubber insulated clamp. No pic of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.