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Crossmember ?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

So I'm almost ready for the mock engine /trans install.I fabbed the motor mounts,(they look nothing like the ones in the book)and did everything the JTR book says,but I dont have a crossmember.I have'nt been able to talk myself into ordering one because it seems like there should be a better way to do it.Before I lay under my car for the weekend trying to reinvent the wheel, I was wondering if anyone has fabbed up something that is not so bulky and primitive.If so,please post a pic or description of it.thanks 2thumbs.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I used to think that the JTR tranny crossmember was quite primitive looking ..It is not with a coat of paint and also serves a purpose to get you in the ball park with a more proper driveline angle phasing from the tranny to the diff. Tim 240 Z has a picture of his slick tranny mount on his website (watch for a post of his in about an hour from now and click on his web) and I posted a picture of a whole kit from John's Cars that was on eBay awhile back.

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Oh, transmission crossmember. I get it. I thought this was about the engine crossmember.

 

I agree - I don't actually see how the JTR one can work all that well since it is attached to those weak, thin floors. I fabbed up something similar to Tim's.

T56Mounted2.jpg

 

You never said what kind of car or transmission this is for. The thing Phantom is talking about will only work on a 280Z. On a 240, I don't see how you can avoid removing the humps in the tunnel for the stock mount.

 

But, I had another idea, although not really a novel one. It might be easier to sort of replicate the way Datsun did it:

  • [*]
Create some new sheetmetal humps with flat bottoms.[*]Hole(s) on the bottom flat part. Nuts welded on the inner sides.[*]Make up a simple, separate transmission crossmember (with allowance for exhaust).[*]Bolt it all together.[*]Then push it up in place (your transmission will need to be supported in place exactly where it needs to be for proper alignment) and bolt it to the transmission mount.[*]Then weld in the humps to the tunnel.[/list:u:dc1f7d31e5]This is pretty much what I did, except that my cross member is more complicated and the "humps" in my case were really just flat pieces of 14ga steel. The disadvantage I have is that the bolts go into the tunnel and stick out a bit. And installation is a little trickier - lining the thing up in there to get all 4 bolts in and threaded. I think this other way would be easier to fab up too since you can bend out a lip around each hump - bend it more, making the whole package narrower, to get it up in the tunnel better. Bend it back if it needs to go down (fatter), etc. I had to be somewhat more careful and measure stuff in advance which is no fun.

Hindsight. Oh well.

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Originally posted by jeromio:

Oh, transmission crossmember. I get it. I thought this was about the engine crossmember.

 

I agree - I don't actually see how the JTR one can work all that well since it is attached to those weak, thin floors.

:D But, if we connect it rigidly to the subframe connectors, it doubles as a chassis stiffener :D

 

trannyxmembermount1v.jpg

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Guest Anonymous

Ya see? Even when I forget to tell you which car,trans,and even which crossmember,I still get results.A true testimony to the power and glory that is Hybrid Z.

It is a 76 280 with a 700r,and it is the trans member.I was thinking about a V shaped thing out of rectangular box,with enough of a flat for the mount.I actually found that tail housing in the JTR book with the mount boss.So everything is going to be back a bit further.

Making humps to weld in is a good idea.I was going to weld a thick plate under the mount,slot the hole,then mill it down to get the correct alignment.

A sturdy,ridgid crossmember,with frame connectors to strengthen the chassis is the way for sure.But if I dont keep it simple,it will never get done.I'm really bad about getting carried away.If I like this car when its done,I'll build another,with all the cool stuff.Thanks cheers.gif

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I have a 3/16" plate sitting on the floor between the tunel and the subframe connector, welded to the floor and subframe connector. Then I boxed the area with 1/8" x 1" flat stock, welded to the floor, the 3/16" plate, tunnel and subframe connector. A very rigid box without one side.

 

My crossmember has 7/16" holes in it (4 per side) and this was used to match drill 7/16" holes in the floor&3/16" plates, so when I force the 7/16" bolts (with unthreaded shank long enough to go through the crossmember, floor and plate) through, there's no play you could discern by hand. Then it's all torqued down, and very rigid.

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