Tim240z Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 My neighbour has a 66 Chevy truck with a 283V8. I just gave it a complete tune up...plugs, points, condensor, coil, filters, timing etc etc...but an ongoing problem has been starting it: When turning the key to the "start" position, nothing happens...absolutely nothing...no clicking, whining or anything from the starter (which is fairly new). The battery is also brand new. But...if I hook up the quick charger to it, it fires right up and purrs like a kitten (thanks to my wonderful tuning ) I checked all the connections and cleaned (sand paper &/or wire brush), sprayed all the connections with electrical cleaner....all the usual stuff...... I just don't understand...if it was the ignition switch, it wouldn't fire at all, even with the booster, right? When it is running the alternator is charging at ~14 volts (at about 1500RPM). What could it be? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 When your connecting the quick charger are you connecting ground to the battery or body ground? Check the battery independently, you may have a defective battery. I've had it happen to me to where i get the voltage but the cranking amps were not there. Turns out to be defective cell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 4, 2004 Author Share Posted July 4, 2004 I've tried it both ways, negative of the charger to the block and to the post. The battery is putting out 12.68 volts, but i don't know if it is able to load or not. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 Kinda sounds like the problem I had with my OPTIMA battery. It sat over winter with out being used. Then this spring when I went to fire it up it wouldnt turn over the engine. I checked the battery and it was low on voltage so I trickle charged (this is the only way to charge an OPTIMA, just so you know). Put it back on the car, same thing. I took it back to get a new one and it wouldnt pass the load test. I ended up getting screwed big time by AUTO ZONE because "they couldnt find me in there records saying that I did buy the battery from them" (I'm still very PO'd about that one!!!!!) After I put in a new battery the problem was gone. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 4, 2004 Author Share Posted July 4, 2004 The battery is brand new, as of yesterday. I pulled the battery out of my truck, and tried that one, same thing! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 Tim, Would you by chance have used some of the spray stuff that prevents corrosion on the battery posts and terminals? I've seen this done to a few cars and they wouldn't start. On one particular car, I took the battery clamps off, wiped them and the battery posts off, cleaned them with carb cleaner, put them back on, tightened them up. The car started. What makes me think this, is what you said. It will start with a charger attached. Common denomater is the clamping system. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 4, 2004 Author Share Posted July 4, 2004 Everything has been cleaned 'til spotless! I'm starting to think that it is either a corroded solenoid on the starter, or a lot of resistance in the ignition switch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 can you test the starter outside the truck? if so do that. im sure its the starter, nothing else could cause this. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 You can isolate the ign. switch by shorting the poles on the starter solenoid (with the ign. set to On of course). But my guess is that it's the solenoid or the starter. The fact that the starter is "new" is immaterial. Especially if it's a reman from a chain store. I've gotten so many defective parts from these places that I will only ever buy from those chain stores if the repair is critically time sensitive and the "regular" parts counter is closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 can you test the starter outside the truck? if so do that.im sure its the starter' date=' nothing else could cause this. mike[/quote'] What he said, maybe the starter is requiring more amperage than normal to crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 4, 2004 Author Share Posted July 4, 2004 While I agree that its worth looking at, I find it wierd that the starter makes absolutely no noise when not hooked to the booster....I would have thought that it would at a minimum click, or tick or something.....I'm leaning to the ignition switch a bit more, but I will have to wait for my neighbor to get home (he works wierd hours--fireman) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 tear into the solinoid. check the main terminal inside it. often times just pushing it in and turning it 1/2 a turn will fix it. also check the disc inside of it. could be with the charger attached, it gives it just enough juice to make contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted July 4, 2004 Share Posted July 4, 2004 Try a remote starter, you know the ones professionals use when they want to bump the motor or use a screwdriver. If it starts on the same battery without the quick charger, then it probably is the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted July 5, 2004 Author Share Posted July 5, 2004 The starter will engage when shorting the 2 terminals to the main power terminal. That's what is making me lean towards the ignition switch. It has a master plug going to it, so it will be very easy to disconnect the switch and jumper the terminals in the plug as a test..... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted July 5, 2004 Share Posted July 5, 2004 Tim, Sounds like the ignition switch to me since you are basically using another switch with the remote starter. The remote starter requires the key to be in the on position, correct? Sounds like the start position circuit isn't making contact in the 38 year old switch. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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