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Help repainting hood


Metro

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Recently I painted my car, maybe the fumes where getting to me, but I really screwed up when I sprayed the clearcoat for the hood so I needed to repaint it. I'm using basecoat/clearcoat.

 

Now I may be completely wrong here, but as I understand it, all I needed to do was scuff the paint and respray the base coat. I used my DA sander with 180grit followed by 400grit to do that. But within seconds after I layed down a pass with the basecoat, it did this:

 

why_oh_why.jpg

 

It's kind of hard to tell, but the paint raises up and creates ridges. It's actually kind of cool looking, but not at all what I want :?

Did I do something wrong? It's really looking that way.

 

Well, I think I'll sand it down to primer and start from scratch but I would like to know why it's doing this.

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Guest Z-fried

I've had that happen before. I am guessing that you resanded and applied new paint only a few days after you laid down the initial paint job.

 

What is happening is a kind of solvent pop. The solvents in the original clear have not fully evaporated before you cut back in and tried to apply new paint. The solvents in the fresh paint is reacting with the old solvents and causing your paint to wrinkle, sort of like pouring paint thinner on fresh paint.

 

You have two options: Wait a few months for all the paint to completely set and then resand, or you can take it all back down to primer now and start the refinishing process.

 

I would remove it all and start again. That way you can be sure it won't happen again. Good luck.

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What is happening is a kind of solvent pop. The solvents in the original clear have not fully evaporated before you cut back in and tried to apply new paint. The solvents in the fresh paint is reacting with the old solvents and causing your paint to wrinkle, sort of like pouring paint thinner on fresh paint.

 

Yeah, the first time I tried to repaint it, it had only been a week or so since I sprayed the clear. I was thinking it might be that.

 

Thanks for the info.

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Guest Zachb55

Ok... im not sure if i read this correctly but this is what happened when you tried putting your first layer of clear coat over the base? if so, how long did you wait from when you put your last coat of base on till now, and how long till you sanded it. i used a one stage system but i thought that you could put down your basecoat and then you were supposed to wait a couple weeks, work out any imperfections, and then spray your clear, or you could also do it within 24 hours? it something like that, you need to talk to your provider and see what they tell you, a person with more expertise is destined to chime in but i think you must have pushed some time boundaries like was previously mentioned...

 

-Zach

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Guest Z-fried

When spraying base/clear system it is best to lay down 2-3 coats of base allowing each coat to flash for 15-20 minutes between coats. After the final coat of base is sprayed it should flash for 30 minutes. Then 2-3 topcoats of clear can be applied and allowed to flash for 15-20 minutes between coats. After which the car should be baked(if booth is capable) for about an hour then allowed to sit over night in the booth. Even after this the paint can easily be marred by a sharp object or pressure.

 

Metro did this correctly, or a similar version of this based on his paint, but a week is not long enough for the clear to fully cure, be sanded and recoated. The short turnaround on the application of new paint over something that was recently painted is what caused his problem.

 

When you spray base you should lay down clear soon after per instructions. You should not sand it inbetween stages(between base and clear), especially a metallic. All imperfections should be taken care of during the primer stage. It is too late to fix things at the base/clear point. The only time you do not immediatly topcoat with clear is when you are using multiple base colors for either a fade or taping to separate colors.

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