Jump to content
HybridZ

Bogs off the block


Guest tony78_280z

Recommended Posts

Guest tony78_280z

got the holley back on. And I'm zoomin around. It accelerates like a dream in mid and high speeds. Don't got the speedo workin yet, but I can feel it. But from a stop at the initial flooring of the peddle the car bogs and stalls. it dies sometimes, others it picks up after a second and goes tearing on down the road.

 

I'm thinking my spark advance is off. How do I check such a thing if it only advances when the car is under load?

 

Second theory is that the power valve on the carb is dumping too much gas and flooding it for a second. What can I do about that? And how can I check it?

 

My Third theory is possible a vacuum leak somewhere, but I sure as hell can't find it.

 

DO I hear a frouth theory?

 

Any help is appreciated

 

-Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The accelerator pump/nozzle size sounds like the problem to me. Some remedies if so: 1) 50cc pump and diaphram (but this is usually an overkill); 2) larger nozzle (#25 I belive is OEM, and I've at times had to go as high as a #40 to fix off-line stumble; or 3) Swapping the cam that operates the accelerator pump to one more aggressive (Personally, I've not had a lot of success with this method as it needs to be well coordinated with both of the above) ramp or profile. All 3 of the above will have an affect on each of the others, but changing the nozzle (IMHO) will give you a quick and easy idea if the lack of fuel at this transition from idle to WOT is the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guys have it right... lack of fuel off the line. There is a bit of time as the throttles are dumped open when there is very little airflow through the carbs venturis; getting rpms up and thus past that point quickly minimizes bog. There are several factors involved- cam, gears, stall speed and mechanical vs. vacuum secondaries among them. If the fixes suggested in earlier posts aren't enough to cure the problem, deeper gears (higher numerical), looser converter/higher stall speed and a vacuum secondary carb all help

 

The accelerator pump covers for the lack of fuel through the main system after the transfer slots have been uncovered. If your cam needs more RPM to idle, tweaking the set screw/ throttle stop on the secondaries open a bit more will allow the primary's transfer slots to remain in play.

 

 

 

Believe it or not, there once was a time when it was ultra cool to have a mechanical sec. carb so big that the engine could be killed by flooring the throttle. Note that I said cool, not logical.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest tony78_280z

My motor is completely stock excepting the carb and the exhaust. So Cam and ratios really don't apply to this problem.

 

The carb is a Holley 600cfm vacuum secondaries. When (in park) I manually throw back the throttle I can see a large volume of fuel squirt into the front boosters and then the motor bogs and sputters. Thus I'm assuming the engine is getting flooded.

 

Note in park a vacuum secondary will not open (or so they say) unless the motor is under load.

 

"Swapping the cam that operates the accelerator pump to one more aggressive" -- Can I get one that is LESS aggressive?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about the earlier dissertation; I generally read posts to the signature & ignore the rest... Got bit this time. Should have left Terry's answer alone.

 

If your secondaries were opening you would see the diaphragm rod go up, and the throttle shaft turn.

 

Unless you are seeing great gobs of black smoke (like a stuck choke) at the same time that the engine stumbles, I'd still guess lean. Snapping the throttle wide open from idle pretty much kills any vacuum, so the pump is all that feeds the engine for a while. If it eats the pump shot before RPM and vacuum come up...

 

Holley sells an assortment of cams for us tinkerers to play with; hope you find the right one. (You might want to try the other hole in the one you have just to see what happens).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could also be an ignition timing problem.

 

Use a timing light to verify the timing is advancing when you hit the throttle.

 

A common mistake on GM engines is to plug the vacuum advance in the wrong port on the carb. The correct vacuum port WILL NOT have any vacuum at idle (called ported vacuum). Vacuum to the vacuum advance is only produced when the throttle blades are opened. Vacuum on this port is taken from above the throttle blades (not manifold vacuum).

 

You can feel the difference between the two vacuum ports with your finger as the engine is running.

 

If you have the vacuum advance on the wrong vacuum port then the timing will retard when the throttle is opened which will cause a bog.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...