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What would you do?


Guest SagZ

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OK, there is a 1977 280z in town with a 1979 engine in it for sale for $500. Now I haven't seen it yet (going to after I get back from D.C.)and supposedly it doesn't run and has been sitting in storage for 4 years and the guy says it has rust in the "usual places". Assuming the rust isn't to bad I'm going to get it... but here is my question. Should I try and get it running with the existing engine? or just go for the conversion? The target HP I want is around 400-430hp. If I go for the conversion I have other questions...

 

1. should I put a generic 350 in there till I can afford the crate motor with the hp I want?

 

2. should I get a gm goodwrench crate engine and then build it up piece by piece until desired hp has been reached?

 

3. well can't remember my 3rd question

 

I know this project will take me awhile to accomplish so I am prepared to be patient... any and all opinions are welcome!

 

Thanks guys

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Guest Anonymous

Go over it with a screw driver probe looking for rust like stink on a skunk. Make loud if not obscene noises when finding rust. Complain bitterly and act stupid but not obnoxious. If you like the car and want it offer $200.00 to start( or lower if you are real ruthless). Get the car running first and keep it running ..then you can intelligently decide if it is worth pouring big money into (beside a better one may come along ) and keep it running and Last : keep it running. Buy a new GM crate 383 stump pulling stroker engine

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I second Tomahawk. Why would you want to go out and buy an intermediate V-8 you plan to replace when the car probably has a good L28 in it that you get for the original price of the car? Also, rust = cancer. The cure is obscenely expensive.

You're only a few hours from DFW. If you want a rust free shell contact Jerry at (817) 483-0383 at all Z Car specialist and have him keep a look-out for you.

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I agree with what these guys have said. I bought my 78 280 from my high school friend, and the car had pretty much been sitting for several years. He would occasionally (rarely) start it up and take it for a short drive. The alternator had a short and was discharging the battery so it was always dead. Point is I bought it and let it sit for 10 months while only starting it a few times and driving it twice before I finally registered it and started driving it regularly. Everything works and it runs great too! The boot between the MAF and the throttle body had holes in it, and it ran like crap when I first got it. Since I am going to pull the motor anyway I just wrapped it in duck tape, and now it runs great. Plus I scored an alternator from my buddy for $10 to fix the short.

 

Here is a link to progressively building a GM goodwrench engine like you describe:

 

http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/chp/Welcome.html

 

Danny

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Guest Z-rific

Look for rust on the front fenders behind the front wheels down low, open hatch and check the rear sill, open fuel door and look there, lift battery and look for rust on tray. Then...get under it and poke at frame rails and floor pans (rust here is the toughest fix).

 

If I were you, I'd get it running with the L6 first. You will have a running car while you do body/suspension fixes and mods (with a V8 you will want new and/or improved brakes and a stiffer suspension).

 

Then, I'd grab a 4 bolt main V8 from a junkyard or salvage yard (doesn't need to be running). Make sure it comes with starter, alternator, distributor, carb, the whole deal.

 

Tear it all the way down and slowly build up the motor to your specs. Start with getting the block and crank cleaned and machined (if necessary). Then get pistons/rods of your choice, then cam of your choice, etc. If you don't already know much about engines, this will make you learn. There are tons of good books that will guide you step by ste pon the process.

 

Of course, your budget will determine most everything. If it's no big deal to drop several grand on a hi-po crate motor, then do that.

 

If you plan on 500HP, then expect to drop thousands more in the car to take advantage of the power.

 

Sorry for rambling.

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Just about any 350 Chevy can be built to make 400/430 HP at the crank, although you can put out a good number of pony with a 2.8L too, in regards to a road car that is, for drag, without a turbo most setups are going to be under 300HP.

 

I'm an LT1 guy, so being familiar with them, and already having decent heads/intake stock, that would about be my suggestion for the price to performance ratio. With a good exaust and some air intake work figure on about 300HP at the crank, if not a tad more (a tad, not alot). Add a cam and you can get to about 400 HP without touching the heads, with a 244/244 solid roller on a stock head 93 Camaro (and a supposedly bad tune) someone made around 400 RWHP, which is about 450 crank, that is some serious pony even in a 3400+ pound car.

 

Plus, having a T56 rocks IMO!

 

Good luck

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Originally posted by Z-rific:

If I were you, I'd get it running with the L6 first. You will have a running car while you do body/suspension fixes and mods (with a V8 you will want new and/or improved brakes and a stiffer suspension).

Agreed, when you look at the time and expense of building up that kind of car, it will not only be a $erious project, but I try to be realistic with myself and what I want to do with the car.

 

For me horsepower is not a priority, I want more than stock, but the L6 will suit most peoples needs for awhile. Quite frankly few drivers even in a straight line could make good use of 400-500 HP in a 2500 pound car, I could go sideways at about 55 MPH with about 411 RWHP, in a heavier car - more power/weight ratio than that (and less weight on the tires!) and you are going to be skating like your on ice.

 

I also have learned to agree with the rust comment, unless its only in a spot that you were planning to immediately put fiberglass on right away, your going to spend more time and money fixing it than spending a little more buying a nice $1000-$2000 great shape Z, but if you find it in one spot, it is likely elsewhere as well...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well after waiting patiently for the guy to make a decision... the deal fell through. So I'm back to searching for a Z. This sucks, no Z sitting under the tree for me =(

 

Phantom... I might give that guy a call and just wait it out. I hate being patient

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Sag, I went through the same thing. Thought I found a deal, and the seller fell asleep on the deal, and eventually I found something else that fit the bill.

 

It kinda sucks, but its a watch and wait game, if you jump on something that is not 100% what you want, you will probably kick yourself later.

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Patience IS a Virtue! Really important in buying cars! Things will happen that are meant to happen. You may not understand it now but maybe you lose this deal so you will have money to buy a totally refurbished V-8 Z (no rust) for a song in the future(although I'm can't sing :D ).

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Guest silverbullet
Originally posted by Tomahawk Z:

and keep it running and Last : keep it running./QUOTE]

 

My .02, this is the best advice if you do get the car or any other Z get it running and KEEP IT RUNNING they will go downhill fast if you let them sit, I am convinced this is the main reason that my car has run reasonably problem free for the last 10yrs.

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