Another newbie looking for help

[Guest kschul2]

First off just wanted to say that this is a fantastic forum. Certainly an excellent resource and I have really enjoyed reading and learning about classic Zs and V8 conversions. I have used the search forum quite a bit and at this point feel I have a decent understanding and would like some help with my specific situation. This will probably be a long post but here goes...

 

First off, a little about myself. I will be 16 in 4 months and am really looking forward to being able to drive. For my first car I am getting my Dad's Saturn. By next summer, assuming I don't do too poorly driving he's going to help me buy my own car. Between what he is offering to pay, and what I have saved up I have about $16,000 for a car, which could be closer to $20,000 depending on my job situation in the next few months.

 

I have always loved Zs, especially the original 240. In fact, my dad almost bought me a '72 last year but decided he'd rather me have a newer car that would be safer and more reliable. Since then I've been looking into newer cars, but have yet to find anything as exciting that would fit into my budget...so I'm back to the 240Z. Obviously, my first question is, is it possible to make a 240Z safe and reliable as far as today's standards go? Assuming that can be done, I'll move on.

 

One thing I know I want to do is put a V8 in it. I'm thinking probably a crate engine 350, since that seems to be the simplest and most straightforward way to do this. The Edlebrock 350s have caught my eye - either one of their lowerend 350s. I can't get the link to work, but one is 310hp 375lbft and the other 320hp 382lbft. I certainly don't need any more power than that, as this is going to be a daily driver, and I'm not planning on taking it to the track anytime soon. If another engine would work better, please let me know.

 

Next up, I want a manual transmission. What would be the advantages/disadvantages between a 5spd and 6spd? Then, there's also suspension upgrades and brake upgrades, and probably plenty of things I have forgotten about. Keep in mind that the number one priority for this vehicle is a fun, but safe and reliable vehicle. There's also tires, wheels, and all of the interior and electrical accessories I'd like to include but I would imagine figuring those out would come a little later.

 

Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything. As far as mechincal skills, I don't really have a whole lot of experience. However my Dad has two classic trucks ('52 and '68, both Chevys). The '52 he is completely restoring. So, I'd imagine between the two of us and the manual from JTR and this forum, we could figure things out. Anyway, I guess that's it. Thanks everyone for your help, I greatly appreciate it.

 

Karl

 

EDIT: Looks like I did forget something...the actual car. What do I need to look for, and look out for? I want a pre-'73 240Z. Considering the extent of the resoration/upgrades I want to do, would I be better off just buying something cheap? Or should I go with something that has already been somewhat restored? Thanks again.

[wheelman]

Karl,

Welcome to the forum.

 

All the information you're asking for can be found in the posts on this site so do some searching on given subjects such as brakes, electrical, drive-train, etc... and simply read the posts as they come up. Most of your questions will be answered if you do some research and be curious about Z cars.

 

Can they be safe? Yes they can be safe but alot of it depends on what you start with. A pre-73 240 will probably need quite a bit of work depending on how it's been taken care of but with the correct brake, suspension, body/frame reinforcements and engine package they can be as safe as a modern car. The biggest safety factor is what's between your ears. Any car can be safe when not pushed beyond it's limits and thats where you need to concentrate the most right now. Gain some driving experience and remember the streets are not a race track.

 

What to look out for when looking at 240s. RUST. They are all prone to rust and the older they are the more likely they will have it. If you find a truelly rust free 240 then snag it, but it's going to cost you, that is unless you get very lucky. Check the floor boards, rocker panels, under the battery tray and the frame rails. If you find it in visible places then it's guaranteed to be where you can't look. Other than rust if you're planning on doing a V8 conversion the rest is not a big concern assuming you don't plan on driving it while collecting parts for the conversion. Look for accident damage also but that goes for any used car you purchase.

 

You might consider a 280. Thay were built stronger so need less structural work and come with the stronger R200 differential assuming the car has a manual transmission.

 

In the mean time volunteer to help your dad to develop your mechanical skills and listen to what he says even if you think he's wrong. If he is you'll both learn something and if he's not you will, but either way you'll avoid fights and it will be enjoyable for both of you.

 

Wheelman

[Phantom]

Karl,

The biggest contributor to safety in an old Z is the driver. The Z does not have crash bumpers, crumple zones, air bags, door safety beams, ABS, traction control, etc. It barely has safety belts. That being said I've put around 150,000 miles in mine and have not had so much as a scratch. There were opportunities for much worse but defensive driving skills saved the day. Note the word "defensive". A V-8 Z will be much more powerful than 90% of the cars on the road. You have to fully comprehend that and treat it appropriately. That will require resisting a lot of temptation. The first three cars my son got were two 4 cylinders and then a V-6. I credit that with helping him to still being alive today. He wasn't very good at resisting temptaion.

A 5-spd. will be fine with the V8 conversion - especially with around a 3.54:1 rear end ratio.

Keep reading the posts and doing searches. You'll do fine.

[Michael]

Karl,

 

Getting a 240Z to be as safe and reliable as a modern car would be a considerable challenge, depending of course on what we mean by “safe and reliableâ€.

 

Equipping the 240Z with airbags, antilock brakes and traction control is out of the question. In that sense, it won’t be as safe as your Saturn. But relatively modest upgrades in brakes and suspension will bring your Z’s handling and stopping ability on par with the average late-model car. With a more generous investment in parts and labor, the Z will stop faster and outcorner the majority of new cars, including many labeled as sports cars.

 

Reliability is in the eye of the beholder. Old parts break more often than new parts. You can’t expect the 240Z to be as trouble-free a cross-country touring car as what we find in the showroom in 2004. On a cold winter day, it won’t start as readily as a new car. On a midnight drive down a country road, a blown fuse taking out the headlights is far more likely than in a new car. The dome light amy stop working for no reason, the heater core may leak and the lock on the rear hatch could jam – all on the same trip. On the other hand, if and when parts do break, they’re easier to fix on a Z. A burnt clutch in the Saturn almost guarantees a trip to a mechanic, and a >$1000 repair bill (this exact thing happened in my mother’s 1995 Saturn SL). A burnt clutch in a Z can be fixed in your garage, at one third the price.

 

I would recommend that you keep driving your Saturn for a few years, but look for a decent 240Z in the meanwhile. What’s wrong with having two cars at once? Tinkering with the Z is far more practical when you have a reliable beater for daily transportation. Start by replacing suspension bushings, bleeding the brakes, replacing front wheel bearings, tuning the carbs. These might not be glamorous items, but they’ll give you valuable experience, improve your driving enjoyment of the Z, and have the side benefit of improving your stature as a mechanic in your father’s eyes. Which improves the odds of an ambitious father-son automotive project down the road, by which time you might be ready to build your own engine, instead of supporting Edelbrock’s profit margin.