grumpyvette Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 here read. it will help, if you don,t read the links the time and effort is wasted, its worth your time and effort to learn the tips http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.htm http://www.hardblok.com/info.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_0/m1185/n8_v32/21148174/p1/ar ticle.jhtml?term=chevy+%2Bcombustion+%2Bchamber+design http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm http://www.se-r.net/engine/block_prep.html http://racerhelp.com/article_racing-10.html now in addition to that info , heres what I do (1) get the block totally cleaned, DEGREASED and CHECKED by a GOOD MACHINE SHOP BEFORE INVESTING MONEY IN IT! (2) have new cam bearings and freeze plugs , oil plugs,installed only after all other machine work is done and after a extensive recleaning of all the oil passages just prior to starting assembly (3) screens over the oil drain back holes are a good idea ONLY if your willing to change oil and filters very frequently (4) several powerfull magnets in the oil pan and one in the rear of each cylinderhead to trap small metal parts is EXCELLENT INSURANCE (5) polishing and smoothing the valve edges and combustion chambers helps prevent detonation (6)never fill the water passages higher than the bottom of the freeze plug holes on a street engine (7) 7 or more qt oil pans with BAFFLES AND A WINDAGE SCREEN like MILODON MAKES are a GREAT IDEA (8)personally I use standard voluum BIG BLOCK OIL PUMPS or high voluum sbc oil pumps in those 7 qt plus oil pans (9) ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS UNLESS YOUR TRUELY POSSITIVE YOU KNOW BETTER (10) measure everthing at least 3 times and get the clearances CORRECT, not close! (11) use all ARP studs and bolts and get EVERYTHING BALLANCED, take your time ,ask questions and do it correctly the first time btw heres where you get the magnets and use no smaller than 1/8" grid screen EPOXYed IN PLACE, http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnets.html (I use the #1,2 and #42) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYHEM Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 Excellent advise, Grumpyvette. I lot of engine builder forget about the FINER things in in doing a good build. I'm very particular on who's machine shop I'm going to also. Alot of us love buildng motor, but hate rebuilding them 200 miles down the road, just because we neglected to .....do attention to detail. One thing I would like to add/and your opinon. Is the use of (I forgot the name)that stuff you paint in the valley to assist oil drain back. I think I got it for The Eastwood Co. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAYHEM Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 Ok, I found it It's called Glyptal . Under specialty paints and coating section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helldrives Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 Grumpyvette, How can you tell where the water is in reference to the freeze plug holes? Thanks for all of your helpful info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted January 10, 2003 Author Share Posted January 10, 2003 Helldrives next time you have a bare block with the freeze plugs removed ready to take to a machine shop for boiling out look carefully into the area around the outside of the cylinders inside the block where the coolent normally flows, youll notice that the bottom of the freeze plug holes are about 1/3 up the cylinder bore length, most of the engines heat is generated in the upper 1/2 of the cylinder and the heads so filling only the lower 1/3 of the coolent passage around the cylinders strengthens the cylinder walls but if DONE CORRECTLY has little effect on cooling efficiency Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.