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In reply to your question about using a smaller balancer instead of the 8-incher that came with our engines built by the Blok Shop...

I went with the Summit SUM-B64266 Ext Bal 400, 6.6-inches. it was the cheapest one in the catalog. speced at 50% higher than SFI 18-1 specs. whatever that means, as long as it fits and works. i hope i didnt wack it on too hard...really worried. Price was $224.50


Mark said not to change

the balancer but there was no way in hell I

was gonna start grinding for balancer clearance!

I guess I should get a new timing pointer

cuz my balancer is smaller now?


As for the starter, I chose the SUM-G1659.

1/3 smaller, 40% lighter and 50% more cranking power. At $157.95


I only chose the Summit brands cuz i am running out of funds! Got to remember, building a street car, not a race car!


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Guest Anonymous

Thats what I thought, I think I will go the same route and use a 6.6 balancer.


re: Summit brands, I hear ya, funds are getting tight here as well, my car is a street car also but everyone who sees it say's "are you building a race car?" jeez, I need to quit being so picky about parts.



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Guest Anonymous

I ran in to the same problem... but after I got the motor in. I was able to remove enough material from the top of the steering rack to clear the balancer. It has worked for me and I was not sure if the motor would need to be rebalanced with a new balancer. Does any one know if the balancers can be replaced without balancing the motor over again on an external balanced motor.

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Regarding the balancer issue for stroker motors.... Back when I was interested in a small block, and when I was about to use the JTR setup, I wanted to get a 383 or 406 with 8" Balancer. Concerned about the steering rack clearance issue, I e-mailed Mike Knell of JTR. He said to either 1) get the crank internally balanced, or 2) get the smaller 6" balancer (just make sure it has the 400-crank counterweight).

For those of you in the Los Angeles area, last year I ran into a guy at the Orange County Z club with a '73 240 Z with a 383 stroker. He had his crank balanced internally (with 5.7 350-type rods and stroker pistons).

Also, have we entirely ruled out the possibility to move the motor yet further back, clearing the steering rack entirely? If you're willing to ditch the stock hood latch location entirely, and relocate the brake and clutch hydraulic lines, there's got to be another inch of setback room lurking back there....

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