Corzette Posted October 4, 2004 Share Posted October 4, 2004 Maybe Grumpy is out there. I just ordered a cool packaged stroker assy balanced with 6 inch Damper and Flex Plate Internalally balanced and shipped for $1128.00 Can someone estimate the power out put from the following: 350 SBC .040 over bore AFR 190 Aluminum Heads Roller rockers 1.5 Hydraulic Roller lifters Forged Probe Pistons for 6 inch rods 6 inch full floater rods 400 internally balanced crank Comp Cams 282/288 roller cam .510/.520 lift. Holley 750DP with Proform body Ceramic Block Huggers 1 5/8s Valves 2.02/1.6 CNC ported 70% AFR Dual Plane intake or Victor Jr Single PLane....... Any estimates on power from this 383 long rod setup? The track closes in November and Ill start my rebuild then as well as install the new Comp 9 wiring harness. Damn those F Bodies look out...here I come . No stinkin Nitrous! Grumpy you out there brother? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boostjunkee7 Posted October 4, 2004 Share Posted October 4, 2004 ...with the 0.040 overbore, that'd be more like a 385 cid... I don't see why you'd have a problem hitting the 500/500 mark, esp with those heads. The 1 5/8 headers and 190cc AFR's will also keep your torque up without sacrificing too much hp up top. Go with the victor jr single plane. And if you're trying to squeeze just a bit more power out, check the clearancing for some 1.6 rockers, although it seems it'd be tight...any idea on the compression you're aiming for? PS that sounds like a sweet packaged deal, where'd you get it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Terry, Sounds like an awsome set up You should go high 10's. My 385 is currently going back together as I write. I got 362 hp to the wheels with my 385 sbc and rings were not seating..lots of blow by. Also fuel problems as well. 700r4's eat approx. 23% of your hp. so I would guess I put down around 470 on a not so great build. With the long rod you should get I would guess 500/500 would be pretty close. I put 370 to the wheels in the torque department and that was with 5.7 rods. Let me know how she goes. Best of luck and be careful with the clearances. If you can use Total seal rings. I learned my lesson. Don't use crappy rings!!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Thanks Mike...was gonna get total seal...Ill be in touch. I will post pics on my site again for the rebuild. Engine comes out in mid November for the winter. Back out in March or so... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 The block huggers may hold you back from the 500/500 mark although the engine is capable. Ever think about the full length 1-3/4 from S&S headers? Keep us posted with pic's and vid's if you have em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Some info for those interested. There is a kit on EBAY for $699. I called the place in Las Vegas and asked for an upgrade. Heres the number Its Kieth at dynoflow1@msn.com 702-567-3035. Ask for the 383 internal balanced stroker package with the 6 inch rods. I got: 400 Crank Forged SRP Pistons 6 inch full floater rods bearings rings 6 inch damper flexplate pointer balancing shipping total quoted $1128.00 to Texas. Hell of a deal. I think Mke ZFAN also bought a kit from them. He runs 11.3/4s with it in a 73Z in Dallas. Hope this helps. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumo Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Uuuhh! this may sound like a dumb question but just out of curiousity. What kinda vacuum and idle is expected of your combo. Lopey , low vacuum, a little lopey , mid vacuum good for street. Just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 dr_hunt & Sumo made some really good points. Any engine is a good engine - but is any engine the Right Engine for your intended purpose? What is your intended purpose for this engine-car combo? For an explation for the different levels of engine performances go to the Miscellaneous Tech forum and scroll down to the thread titled Matching Displacement, Cyl Heaeds, DCR & SCR-Duration. You have yet to state what your SCR is going to be. FWIW, once you have decided which level of performance you want (go read the Miscellaneous Tech thread) your other choices will be made for you. I am bringing this up due to your choice of AFR 190's. It sounds to me like you want to make it into the low 11's or high 10's. This would imply a Weekend Warrior to borderline Dedicated Dragster. Once you have read the miscellaneous Tech thread and understand the relationship between the Cyl Head's Intake Port to Cylinder Volume (IP/CV%) relationship you will see that your AFR 190's, on a 383-385 cubic inch engine classify as a Pure Street Engine...not a Weekend Warrior. Couple this Pure Street Engine classification w/your choice of camshaft and you have a likely potential for building a mismatched engine...of course this all depends on your choice of a Static Compression Ratio. Yet if you choose a Weekend Warrior SCR then your Cylinder Head, which classifies as a Pure Street Engine w/the displacement you have chosen, is mismatched w/your Cyl. Head's Intake Port. So prior to giving you any real opinion on the engine build I would first ask you what level of performance you have chosen and which SCR you will be utilizing. Then we can begin giving a real opinion on the engine build components. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Thanks guys for the concern. However the build has already been worked out. Its basically an AFR build for the 383. ZFAN has about the same build. AFR says this combo will put out 480HP and about the same torque. My Compression will be around 10 to 10.5 to 1 with a quench less than .045. ZFANs combo is very streetable and runs low elevens. The only difference I will have is a 6 inch rod vice a 5.7 and one step smaller cam. Maybe a 10 HP difference on the cam. I get about 12 to 14 vacuum at idle of 1000RPMS. Great throttle response. ZFAN went from 12.2s to 11.3s by switching to this setup. All Im trying to do is compare findings on output. MIke has the Comp 286 roller and I have the 282 roller. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 This is a 383 with the AFR 180 Street heads and 9.5 compression. Mine will be a 385 with 190s with about 10.5 to 1. Should be very close. The cam is mildly lopey and I will drive on the street minimally. Yes I want 11s but 10s are fine too. I am keeping the 1 5/8s headers for now. Mikes build does great with them so I will follow suit. Dyno Test Criteria Horsepower: 480 HP Engine: 383 Heads: AFR 180 Street Heads Compression: 9.5 Carburetor: Holley 0-4779 750 cfm Ignition: MSD Distributor 36° Timing Cam: Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller Cam Exhaust: 1 3/4 Headers Fuel: 93 Octane Pump Gas Engine built and dyno tested by American Speed RPM Torque H.P. 2500 448 223 3000 459 262 3500 483 326 4000 501 381 4500 501 429 5000 488 464 5500 469 491 6000 411 470 Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 I put in my numbers to an SCR calculator and my SCR will be about 10.47 to 1 according to the calculation. http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html 4.040 bore 3.75 stroke 4cc valve relief Head Gasket .038 Deck Height .015 at the least may be a little taller, had it milled before 1mm or so. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Oh just checked the DCR and quench. The FelPro 1003 gasket is .041 compressed thickness and 4.166 bore. Plugging in all info with this combo I get 8.12 DCR and a quench of .056. It is recommended to stay between .035 and .045 for best performance and around 8 or less on the DCR I think. At any rate I will be close enough I think but may put some octane boost in when racing like a coupe of gallons of c12. I think that is what ZFAN does to ensure a safe run. Well I cant think of anything else. ZFAN do you remember what your DCR and quench is and SCR? If I retard the cam 4 degrees I get a 7.86 DCR. What do you think Mike? I know you did that to your cam right. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 14 in.Hg. is good for a streetable weekend warrior. "Streetable" is the point I was looking for as implied w/the smaller intake ports you have chosen. As long as your DCR is in the 7.5 to 8.2 range it should be able to run on pump gas. Those numbers look good and appears to pull close to 100% of the volumetric efficiency out of the cyl.heads early in the rpm range while the cam's duratioin delays the engine from coming on to the cam till later in the rpm range - meanwhile, airflow velocity is high throughout the rpm range...and as we all know this is a good thing. Make sure the diff gearing compliments your engine's peak rpm range within the distance of the 1/4 mile. Be sure you or your exhaust man spends extra time in making proper 90 degree transitional bends from the header dump into the exhaust pipe - as that will be the only possible weakness in our Z/V8's. Dont limit yourself w/intake manifolds. They are inexpensive enough to play around w/two or three until you get the right one that compliments your engine the best. With aluminum cyl heads, aluminum intake manifold, and a cam w/long duration - you should be able to get away w/11.0:1 SCR. Looking forward to hearing your new and improved time slips. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Thanks Kevin. I have all Mandrel bends thru out 2 1/2 duals into X-Pipe and out. Thanks for your input...we are all a team here. When I win a race you win one and when you win we win....ya know what I mean I have 411s in now but will go to 370s once I can find someone who wants to trade R200 and axles straight up. 411s would be a good choice for those T56 guys out there...... Thanks bro.... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 77vegasz Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 I ran your set up on Desk Top Dyno. I made a couple of assumptions: 1) Compression 10:1 2) Cam Cl 110 degrees Results: With single plane intake were 447 hp @ 6000 rpm and peak torque at 446 at 4500. Low torque at 2000 was 357 ft/lbs With dual plane intake was 417 hp @ 5500 peak torque 433 @4000-4500 low torque of 390 at 2000. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Thanks Jon. My lobe seperation is 110 but centerline is 106 due to the 4 degrees advance in Comp Cams. Compression is 10.5 to 1. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted October 5, 2004 Share Posted October 5, 2004 Terry, My build is a folows 010/020 block .40 over Eagle 400 crank 5.7 Eagle rods Forged Probe 4 valve relief flat top pistons/fly cut 5cc's total Total Seal rings Zero deck 41 thousandths head gaskets Comp cams Xr288hr-10 236/242 duration/553/540 lift with 1.6's on intake, 1.5's on exhaust Canfield 200cc heads with minor port/bowl work at Kim Barr racing 65cc chambers. 2.055/1.60 valves Victor Jr. intake port matched 750 holley dp with proform main body. Jets are 75 primary/80 secondaries Fluid damper balancer Cam is installed 4 degrees retarded which is technically straight up. Compression is 11.17 to 1 DCR on my build is 8.23 I run it on pump gas 93 octane with 34 degrees of timing max. No detenation ever. At the track I run 2 gallons of 114 to 4 gallons of 93 octane and bump timing if need be. With a better converter and tires the car would go 10.70-10.80. I can only get a best of 1.74 60 ft. times. I should get 1.50's. I ran 11.30 at 122. My wife and son have driven the car and it is very streetable believe it or not. I run 2.5 exhaust with Hooker super comp long tube headers. Mufflers are mini Flowmaster 10 series race mufflers. I only recently found out they are not street legal Screw em!!!!!!! My deepest and sincer apologies to the Law Enorcement on this site Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 5, 2004 Author Share Posted October 5, 2004 Thanks for the input Mike! I cant wait to see your new times.....I sent you another vid of me and my friends 396 BBZ... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted October 8, 2004 Share Posted October 8, 2004 Terry, Great video, thanks by the way! My motor is finished and will go in the car on Thursday as I have to wait for the new stall converter. It's a Edge 9.5" 3500 rpm stall speed converter built specifically for my cars engine, gears and tranny. I should be on the road by next weekend. I am going back to an electric fuel pump instead of mechanical due to some issues. I always liked electric better anyway. Holley blue just like the last one I used. They are a bit noisy but no fuel starvation issues with that one. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted October 9, 2004 Author Share Posted October 9, 2004 Mike, thats great. Im interested in seeing how the 3500 stall works. How much did you pay for it? I will prob need to go that route as well. Question...what all do I need to do to the block to get the stroker to fit? Just notch the block? I want to be specific when I take it in. I know I need to hone it and notch the block. I cant think of anything else I must do except have the tube weded on the oil pump pick up. Thanks in advance. Oh do u have any pics of your car? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.