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Update!!! 406 SBC Aluminum Rodeck


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Well folks, once again I've found what is a sweet deal. One of my accounts has a 406 SBC Aluminum Rodeck Sprint car motor for sale.

 

400 Rodeck SBC Aluminum block 30 over

3.75" Kryptonite crank

6" Carrillo H-beam rods

Brooks Racing Forged 14:1 pistons, the domes can be milled down to make flat tops!

Ported Brodix -11 Aluminum heads with down nozzles, thats direct valve injection!

Roller cam

Roller lifters

Stainless steel Comp roller rockers

Push rods

Rev-kit

Stud Girdle

Gear Drive

 

This motor would cost you $20K to build new, he's asking $5K!

I've seen it and while it is currently disassembled, it appears everything is in great shape.

 

Mark burnout.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif

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  • 1 month later...

k as a profesional builder Couple things I feel I should say.

 

1.. you can not mill those pistons dome down to a flat top without severely weekening the piston..

 

2. direct mechanical injection absolutley SUCKS for a street car.

 

also .. unles thats one of the FEW rodek wet blocks you need a dry sump oiling system for it.. wich can cost upwards of 800 - 1200 alone.

 

that said.. the parts was a good deal if the motor was in decent shape just be aware its gona be more of a race only thing with those heads and tha setup.

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First, I'm not going to use direct mechanical injection, I'll plug the down nozzle holes.

 

Secondly, I'd agree that most pistons should not have there domes removed due to the fact that under the piston dome area is a concaved or inverted area. To both myself and my engine builders surprise, these are Custom Brooks Racing pistons and there is no concave or inverted area, meaning it would be the same thickness across the whole piston face area after removing the dome. This of coarse will require the crank to be re-balanced. It should work fine, if not I'll get new forged flat-tops.

 

My engine builder has assured me that I can run a wet-sump system or a dry-sump. The choice is mine to make, since I have access to both.

 

p.s. I traded my motor and some cash for this deal!

 

Mark

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Ok, I called Rodeck and gave them the casting number and they said it is a wet-sump! :D After talking with several sprint car racers and my engine builder, I've decided run Methanol and keep it a 14:1 motor. Methanol is about a "buck a gallon" around here! That should net me about a 30% power increase over pump gas! I'm shooting for 700 HP @ the flywheel!

 

Mark burnout.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif

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not only will you need about 70% more METHANOL, keep in mind that ALCOHOL is HYGROSCOPIC ( CONSTANTLY absorbs water from the air)and METHANOL is HIGHLY CORROSIVE, cylinder wall and fuel system corrosion will tend to be constant problems on an engine thats not run and brought up to heat regularly, flushing the cylinders with fresh oil changes and running racing gas for the last few minutes before putting the engine away for any extended storage time is almost mandatory, check with those sprint car guys youll see what Im talking about, they don,t run the same oil for 3000 miles and just turn the engine off and let it sit with a half full fuel tank, and fuel lines for a week between races. also keep in mind that ALCOHOL requires diferant fuel line sizes, pumps,filters,rubber/synthetic lines/fittings and running into paint supply stores to buy METHANOL when you run out of "GAS" someplace which you will be doing about 40%-70% more often for fill-ups gets to be a MAJOR P.I.T.A. REALLY QUICKLY! just some things to think about

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I know that methanol is highly corrosive, but I'm replacing the whole fuel system anyway. As to it taking "twice as much" methanol as gas, that's just not true. The sprint car racers I've spoken with gave me a example of a typical 20 lap race where one car is running methanol and the other race gas. The methanol car will burn around 15 gallons and the gas car will burn about 12 gallons! Around 30% more is about all I'll need! I'll also be running synthetic motor and a fuel dryer filtration system. Racing gas will be run thru the motor prior the shut-downs.

 

Mark 2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif2thumbs.gif

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Z-Dreamer

PLEASE don,t get the IDEA Im trying to kill your plans,I ran METANOL in a 13.7:1 cpr 496 injected BBC engine for several months but converted the car back to use 115 octane racing gas after I got tired of all the little (B.S.) details that you must watch and corrosion problems, all Im trying to do is get you to know ahead of time what your getting in to. youll have a great car either way,(METHANOL or GAS) but you better think everything over before decideing. BTW my car ran quicker (10.25 @ 133mph on gas compared to 10.30 @ 134mph on methanol but SURE sounded neater and had slightly more power on METHANOL, but the CORROSION was way too expensive.

 

I used a constant flow injection like this (CROWER sold them back then , KINSLER sells them now)

man_4.jpg

and it cost me almost $800 back in the 80s (not counting the basic system)to do the conversion,and it was wasted money as far as I was concerned, true with more tuneing the METHANOL would have been faster but I got totally PI$$ed off with all the corrosion problems, the only neat thing was watching the injector stacks frost up on very cold mornings as the METHANOL super cooled the ALUMINUM and the engine was a real P.I.T.A. to fire without an ether/starter fluid boost on cold days

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