74 260z gas tank swap for L28ET

[260ZRED]

what year was it 75 76 or 77?? the one with baffles but that will bolt right up to a early 260z. I need a decent baffled gas tank..... bad.

 

also, whats min. octane on stock boost???? I am used to putting the cheapest gas in my 260 but the L28ET - is it any different?

 

thanks guys.

[Z-Gad]

75-76 gas tank

 

With stock boost, you should be able to run the cheap stuff...

[260ZRED]

thanks!!!!!!!!

 

anybody have a 75-76 gas tank in Houston???

[Clifton]

If you can weld it's not hard to convert your tank to the in-tank pump set up with the proper factory baffles. I have zero fuel issues. I used a Supra donor tank but a Z31 tank would work too. There are pics of mine here.

http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/73.html

[260ZRED]

Will my stock 260z fuel tank work while I search for a better alternative or try to fab. something up, or do you guys think it's too dangerous to even try????? I'd like to drive the car hard (on weekends.) Would I have to drive it mildy b/c of that? I don't have a welder... and really not alot of extra cash.

 

Whatever the addition was in years 1975 and 1976, I'm sure Nissan engineers would not give us something that would not work well!??

 

Are you saying the baffles in those gas tanks are not good enough for a Turbo fuel injection, but just a N/A fuel injection??? I guess that could make sense I never thought of that.

 

Also, the Atlantic Z car website was unclear about using di-electric grease on connectors. Can some one explain this to me, please? I want to do the swap right and want the engine to run perfect, of course that means all connectors have to be clean! Where would you put the grease after cleaning the contact points with the electric connection cleaner spray??? Am I overthinking this one??? I put di-electric grease on sparkplug wires and got horrible performance, never used it again on anything after... just regular old sandpaper to clean connectors.

 

Also would you recomend cleaning the ECU port itself??????? Or is it better to leave it alone?

 

thanks for any and all info.

[Clifton]

Will my stock 260z fuel tank work while I search for a better alternative or try to fab. something up, or do you guys think it's too dangerous to even try?????

 

It's not dangerous, just annoying. When the pick up becomes exposed it will feel like some one cut the power until the pick up gets fuel again. The harder you are on the throttle the worse it will feel. I used a 240 tank on my first turbo efi 240Z. Even road raced with it. Just keep the tank as close to full as you can until you come up with something.

[Nigel]

3rd reply...

 

It's not dangerous, just annoying. When the pick up becomes exposed it will feel like some one cut the power until the pick up gets fuel again. The harder you are on the throttle the worse it will feel. I used a 240 tank on my first turbo efi 240Z. Even road raced with it. Just keep the tank as close to full as you can until you come up with something.

 

With all due respect, I would have to disagree that it's not dangerous. There may only be a drop in fuel pressure, not a complete shut off. This can result in serious detonation, if you're under boost when it happens. A friend of mine blew his head gasket at the drag strip when he accidentaly ran the fuel tank too low.

 

Nigel

 

2nd reply...

 

Hmm... this forum software is buggy. My initial reply keeps showing up like it's the last posting, and I can't post a new reply. It tells me I can only make one posting every 30 sec, but it's been hours since my last post. So, I'm editing my intial reply instead of making a new post.

 

Anyway, I don't know how low you will be able to run your stock tank before you start having problems. I would say a 1/2 tank max. You need to make sure there is enough fuel in the tank to keep the pick-up submerged at all times, under cornering and acceleration.

 

Have you run the car with stock tank at all yet? If so, what did you do about the return line. This is another issue. If the 260Z line is anything that in the 240, then it's way too small. It should be at least 5/16" from the engine, right into the tank.

 

I've looked inside my 240 tank and my 280 tank, and like I said, the only difference in baffling is a coke-can sized shroud around the pick-up. I can't comment on its effectiveness for N/A fuel injected applications. All I know is that with my high flow pump, any kind of hard left turn results in fuel starvation when the tank level drops below half.

 

Dielectric grease is non-conductive (hence the name) and its purpose is to insulate around the physical connection where the pin and socket touch, preventing corrosion. If you don't have a good mechanical contact between the pin and socket, then it could potentially make things worse. But if the connection is that bad, then you have other problems to worry about. I just squeeze the grease into the sockets and then plug everything in. The grease will be scraped out of the way where the pin and socket mate, so you don't need to worry about using too much.

 

Since the ECU is in the cockpit, I wouldn't worry too much about the contacts getting corroded. However, others may have had experience to the contrary.

 

Nigel

 

1st reply...

 

The only extra baffling in the '75 - '76 280Z tank is a coke can sized shroud around the pickup. I have a '75 tank in my 240 and at anything below a 1/2 tank, my Walbro 255lph pump sucks air on hard left turns. I'd recommend having a sump welded to the bottom of your stock tank instead and run new pick-up and return lines. You can get the sump from summitracing.com for ~$60.

 

As for fuel octane, I personally run a minimum of 91 octane in my Subaru Legacy Turbo... 94 for the Turbo Z

 

Nigel