Guest iskone Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 So it's good I didn't go out on a date tonight. My starter has stopped working, this is my second in as many weeks and I don't even drive everyday. I'd say I have one week of starting on it right now. All it does is NOTHING when I pop the ye ol' screwdriver on the solienoid it spins and that's all. Now I was having some timing issue's so it got used a bit today, but I never spin it for more than 10 seceonds and I don't do it often. My car is a bitch to start though, 11.5:1 CR and I have trip webers with no choke so I have to let it crank somtimes. It has got a little easier since now I've learned the trick. Also somtimes when it is cranking it will make a grinding noise, I kill it when that happens. Is my CR to high for a parts store starter? Should I buy a high CR starter from Z Specialties? For now I could swap in another parts store one, mine has a liftime warrenty. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Live and learn...Basically most reman starters (and alternators) from AutoZone, Advance, Pep Boys, etc. are junk. A “Lifetime Warranty” does not mean you are getting a quality unit. The only reman starter I would even consider would be a Nissan factory one. I got one on eBay for $75, well worth it. I’d suggest getting the gear reduction starter that Nissan used on the 280ZX’s. More torque and less battery current. Your 11.5 to 1 compression ratio is not helping either. Also, if you have too much initial ignition timing advance this will place additional strain on the starter. This is more noticeable with a hot engine. I worked on one “hard starting” Z car where I had to increase the centrifugal advance (by elongating the slots in the distributor advance mechanism) so I could reduce the initial advance. Yes, your Webers (I assume DCOE’s as you said you had triples) do not have chokes but they do have a “starting unit” on them. It’s basically a mini-carb on back of each DCOE. It’s controlled by a cable operated lever. You should be able to use your old choke cable to activate the starting units. My final suggestion is to wire the electric fuel pump so it runs when the ignition key is in the ON position. This will allow you to prime the Webers before attempting to start the engine and will reduce the wear and tear on your starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 I'll call up the Z Man and get a Nissan rebuilt one or maybe ebay, found one for $90 I plan on using using a choke cable on the starter circutt. I've already got an electric fuel pump, I let the pump hum for 5-10sec before I crank it. Live and learn is right. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Ok, Maybe the starter wasn't crapped out. This morning I decided to give it a go before I yank it out. I tried one last time because when I was loosening the nut that holds the positive cable on the black cover on top of the solinod moved. So it cranked over and after ALOT of tries I got it started. Last night I let the car cool down for at least 30min if not 45min. I still had the same problem. Heat soak? after a 30min cool down? I'll buy some starter heat wrap for now and I still plan to buy a Nissan starter off ebay, it's the same price anyway. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Nissan L-series engine starters do not suffer from what is commonly referred to as "heat soak" because the exhaust header is on the opposite side of the engine block from the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Oh, I didn't even think of that. Then what was going on last night? I think when I get the Nissan alt I'm going to just return the Shucks one and tell them somtimes it works some times it doesn't, hope I get my money back. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 the gear reduction unit is a must for any Z in my opinion, just get a stock replacement for an 80 280ZX (stock gear recuction unit), cost should be about the same and the parts monkeys won't know the difference in the cores and it's easy enough to change, I save them from parts cars, nice to have spares handy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I've already paid for the Nissan one it was only $100 including shipping, that's the same price as the starter I got from the parts monkies(I like that). BTW it is a gear reduction starter that I have now. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 Got the new starter. It is huge!!! My battery was real low and I had already planned on buying a new one so I went out and bought an Optima red top for $150 at the go fast shop. Still couldn't start the car because it didn't have a full charge and after a while started getting real low. I couldn't even pop the clutch to get it started, the roads were to wet, I hope. Well my new altanator should be here today so when I get home I'll get the red top charged and start again. F*cking car better start tonight!!!! Isaac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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