EZ-E Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Well here is the scenario, was out on a drive one night, the car, an 82 ZX turbo. Well I had ran through a large puddle that had soaked the AFM, the the care exhibited problems of a wet AFM. Would not rev above 2500 to 3000 rpms, rough idle. Lots of black smoke and running well very rich of course. Plugs were fouled with fuel and carbon. So I had removed all the plugs put in new ones cleaned out the AFM, dried all connections, the car would not start, it will crank, has spark, but will not turn over. I had this problem before and it turned out to be the CHTS, but this time it wasnt. I had replaced the aftermarket CHTS with a good new Nissan one, no change, aslo found through FSM tests that the AFM was bad, well only the air temp sensor, and have subsequently replaced that. The new unit has no know problems and according to FSM tests for the AFM, says its all good. When I did get it to run, it would run, and without the fuel pump, when the fuel was hooked up it woudl die out. The regulator is good and keeping a 30#'s of pressure at idle. It would start and run with the off but hooking it up would almost flood it dead. So today, I replaced temp sensors one had a bad wire, the other was old so figured why not, CHTS is new, AFM is good, new temp sensors, but yet the car will flood the cylinders out and not fire, It will try to but just wont turn over. On an interesting note, cylinders 2, 3 and 5 were very wet with fuel, and 1, 4 and 6 were not as wet. 1,3 and 5 meaning were extremly wet with fuel, could i have stuck injectors, thing is though they were working fine before any of this happened. The car ran well and had no problems at all till this stupid puddle! Thanks for any ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Maybe check the TPS? If the AFM got soaked, it could have gotten wet as well.. might be causing this. Sounds like what my 75 was doing, and I also changed out the AFM. I ended up just switching to carbs, so I never actually 'solved' the problem.. but evrything I've run across since then hints (to me anyway..) that the TVS may have been the problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 I had the same problem on my turbo and it turned out to be the head temp swith. Make sure is connected. And if it is then replace it. It is about 55 dollars at a nissan dealership. I am 90% sure this is your problem. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 It was reading at the time, ( it was outside) was 5.5 ohms, which according to the chart in the FSM would coincide approxiamately with the temp of about 10*. Could the new part possibly be bad? Also, why would 2,3 and 5 cylinders load with more fuel then the others? If you can guess or hypothesise at this? Thanks for your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 From what I've been told by a Nissan parts guy (used to be a tech when these were fairly new..5-6 years old) that hitting what seams to be a rev limiter around 3K rpm/rough running sometimes means the ecu is in a 'limp' mode because of a bad sensor, or mis reading sensor. It'll basicaly ignore most of the sensors, and just run in a 'pre-programed' loop.. dumping extra fuel, and not reving past 3k as a safety measure.. OR... Does your car have the resistor packs for the injectors? Going out on a limb here.. could one of them have gone bad (got wet, changed resistance) and be causeing problems with only a few of the injectors? One injector overfueling? I'd say 'bad injector' ..but with 3 doing it, that seams unlikely.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted December 28, 2004 Author Share Posted December 28, 2004 Nor do they have the resistors. I have a new CHTS on order today so we will see, this is making me nuts as no matter what I check as per tests from the FSM all is well. It tends to make one a bit crazy lol. Thanks for your help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 Just to make sure we are talking about the same switch. The head temp switch is on the passenger side of the engine compartment alittle bit above the starter. There is also I coolant temp switch and coolant gauge switch in the thremostat housing. I am talking about the head temp switch over by the starter. If this is not the case then I would take off the fuel rail and see why you are getting too much fuel. Maybe a faulty injector or wiring. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 i second Thumper's idea, i had a bad head temperature sensor, i think this is the same thing ur talkin about-just below the #5 spark plug, if that goes, it will flood ur engine everytime u try and start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GabeRoc Posted December 28, 2004 Share Posted December 28, 2004 i would test it before i went out and bought a new thermistor. ( well, i would now that i have a spare one...) go to your local radio shack and pick up a resistor that is *close* to what the thermistor is supposed to be at the current temp. plug it into the harness (it should fit with a little push) if the engine runs, vola! if not 25 cents saved you some money. -gabe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted December 29, 2004 Author Share Posted December 29, 2004 Good idea, I did test it, if what the FSM says about the temperature rise and fall when component testing, then at the temperature it was outside, it should be at this reading with what the outside temperature is. Thumper, yes we are talking about the same the Cylinder head temperature sensor. I had also replaced the sensor in the t-stat, that is the signal sensor not the gauge sensor as its wire was frayed and actually fell off as I was removing it to replace with the new sensor. The parts guy at Nissan had no problems with getting me a new Head temp sensor, it will be in tomorrow and I will see if she finally starts. Least I hope she does. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.