Guest 4.3L 280z Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 I'm rebuilding an engine and was wandering what to use to clean the parts up? I guess its ok to use water on the block since its going to be tanked anyways but what about cleaning out things like the oil pump, pan, and crank? I want to wash all this up very good to insure there are no small shavings that will get into the next motor but I don't want to use something that will get into the oil and cause longterm damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Varsol is good for dunking and soaking, and using a brush. Berrymans Carberator Cleaner, is fearsome as a spray cleaner and it doubles as a way to find vacuum leaks, as it will rev an engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 I use diesel fuel. I have a one or two gallon oil changing container with a large lid I use to hold the fuel and small parts. Diesel is not as volatile as gasoline so I don't worry about storing the sealed container in my garage. diesel is also like a very light oil so will offer some lubrication and protection against water. BTW I wouldn't use water on any internal engine parts. I have used a pressure washer on a the outside of a complete engine, but I would worry about surface rust on the internals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Get a new oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Save your fingers and just take everything you want cleaned up to the machine shop. All the automotive shops I’ve dealt with have a flat rate for cleaning and will not charge you any extra for additional items like the oil pan or crank. I always take my stuff to them on a Friday so they can soak the entire weekend. Just try to get the items as soon as they are removed from the hot tank. Surface rust can develop in just a few hours of exposure to the air. Even aluminum alloy parts such as the front cover and valve cover can also be cleaned at the machine shop. They use a different tank as the standard hot tank chemicals will damage the softer aluminum materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 Yo, varsol is good, machine shop idea is good also, done that myself. If you know someone in the aviation field, get some MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Works great, altough the fumes are powerful and NOT good for your skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GabeRoc Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 i have found that used ATF makes a great parts cleaner, be it a bit thick. to help the consistancy i'll mix it with kerosene or diesel. makes an inexpensive vat-o-cleaner for soaking parts and such. i'm also a bit learly of water on machined parts, or at least water that isn't quickly dried and then the surface coated with a lubricant like WD-40. --gabe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick458 Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 MEK, and 111 TriChlorEthane, are just about off the market now Fearsome cleaners, but rough on the person cleaning, and rough on the environment. Cleaning with Gasoline is just a good way to blow up your house, and set yourself on fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted January 18, 2005 Share Posted January 18, 2005 I use gas (never blew myself up though:), and Im a bit of a pyro so you can bet Ive tried:twisted:) and I use castrol super cleaner and degreaser, very powerful can get it at wal-mart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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