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water/methanol injection


JTabora

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I used Aquamist water injection on my last motor. It cuts out top end horsepower a little, but allows you to run higher boost without knocking. It also seems to add a little torque somehow.

 

I've found that water injection is great, as long as you tune around it. If you have an already tuned car, and then throw in some water, it will just make it slower. If you back off the fuel and lean it out a bit with the water in there, you will start to see the benefits of it.

 

It's great if you run your injectors near their limits. Leaner running at less duty cycle, and the water does the cooling instead of dumping fuel.

 

Intake air temps drop nicely with water in there as well, probably accounting for the gains in torque I bet.

 

So if you just throw it on the car and expect it to work wonders... its not really.

 

However, if you're running non-intercooled, it make a nice replacement for the intercooler.

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Scottie, it was for you, sorry, it was a little confusing. I've been looking at EFI and Accel's new gen 7 will support Alcohol inj and they have low impedence injectors up to 160Lb/hr, so on Alky it'll support 1280HP NA and probably close to 1000HP Forced.

 

Alcohol has such a large latent heat of vaporization that it will cool the intake charge dramatically. On my NA cars, the intake will get condensation on it, it is that cool.

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Rick,

 

I am using the system from Alky Control, http://www.alkycontrol.com The owner is a friend and fellow Buick turbo enthhusiast. I am going to see if I get him up to the SEZ to help promote the product.

 

 

dr Hunt,

 

3.8L Buick turbo longblock, +.020 hypers, ARP rod bolts and head studs, CNC-ported heads and intake, mild cam, 75# injs, 57mm TB, turbo - 66mm compressor/p-trim turbine with .63 housing, FMIC, 3" DP and exhaust, 9.5" 3400 stall convertor, TH200-4R (BRF), 3.07 final drive, stock ECM with Translator+ and LS1 MAF. See sig for best time which factors out to about 520rwhp and still manages hi-20s mpg cruising. Drivetrain now in a 2nd-gen RX7.

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I have a friend who ran 22 psi of boost on His Eclipse with a 20g using pump gas in California 91 oct.http://www.snowperformance.net/ was the system He used .I am going to setup my own system using parts from http://www.coolingmist.com/ and an additive from http://www.klotzlube.com/ to controll corosion.I will be using the boost /voltage controll unit from Snow Performance to controll variable amounts of methanol and using a NOS solenoid controlled by the AEM EMS I will be using at lower boost levels.http://www.mcmaster.com/ on page 1904 sells misting nozzles for around $5 apiece.Hopefully I will be able to run 400rwh on the street with the new turbo and pump gas.

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check out the turbo buick webiste

 

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=14

 

this will put you into the water/methanol injection forum and read up on posts there to educate yourself. To me, it looks like the guy named "razor" has one of the better kits. Heres a link to his site.

 

http://www.alkycontrol.com/?ref=turbobuick

 

he uses a progressive controller that ads more water/methanol as you build boost, that way you don't get a sudden shock of methanol when it turns on.

 

I'm currently running a cheaper spearco kit on my car and plan on upgrading to Razors kit as soon as money permits.

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To me, it looks like the guy named "razor" has one of the better kits.

That's who and what I was referring to. The progressive feature is why I am using his kit. Anyone can make an inexpensive DIY kit but if you are looking to run big boost/HP, this is the correct way to do it.

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A properly designed water/alcohol injection system does not harm any engine, including the L Motor.

 

Back in the days (70s) when I couldn't afford an intercooler I used water injection on my 280Z (Stock L28 with a BAE turbo Kit) - the only visible difference it made was that the chambers, piston tops, and valves looked brand new when the head was pulled to change a gasket.

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Guest 81na ZX

At worst you'd hydrolock, which won't break the head. rods, pistons, valves, bearings, yes, but water isn't gonna bore holes in the head or anything.

 

When its working good, you'll get a nice steam cleaned combustion chamber (and intake trac) :D

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That's who and what I was referring to. The progressive feature is why I am using his kit. Anyone can make an inexpensive DIY kit but if you are looking to run big boost/HP, this is the correct way to do it.

 

Sorry man, I wasn't absolutely sure that this was the same kit you were referring to. I know when I've got the money, I'm getting it, I hate paying for the c-16 also!

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Finally got around to taking the car for a spin to test out the system.

 

HOLY PUMP GAS, BATMAN :eek: Filled the tank, turned it on with the default settings and hit the gas. 22psi boost straight out of the box and the EGT was less than 1500*. Next, hook up the LM1 and start playing with it but first I have to bleed the brakes some more from installing the braided lines and install some new ball joints.

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