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Have searched/ few questions before purchasing a MSNS


violacleff

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I have been reading up on those of you using MS and quite frankly it scares me a little...ok a lot. Anyway, I will be paying someone else to install it if I do purchase it. Few questions though I have not seen on the site. From what I read, the maps can only be tuned to 18 psi max? is this correct? I have not seen anyone in here running high boost on MS. I would like to run 21-24lbs. on the track and 15-16 on the street. Will MS software support these goals? Also can I set and save both a street and race map and switch between the two? If so, how many maps can be saved? Also, is a wideband 02 and absolute necessity just to get a conservative running tune, and could I bring my car to a dyno and have it tuned by a pro or am I on my own for tuning for the most part? I suppose I can call local tuners and ask the last one. Would you all recommend against me going MS if I was not a good tuner?

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From what I read, the maps can only be tuned to 18 psi max? is this correct? I have not seen anyone in here running high boost on MS. I would like to run 21-24lbs. on the track and 15-16 on the street. Will MS software support these goals?

 

The MAP sensor that comes with MS now can support about 21psi. you can purchase 3 and 4 bar sensors now i think which should take it way beyond what you will ever use.

 

 

Also can I set and save both a street and race map and switch between the two? If so, how many maps can be saved?

 

You can save as many maps as you can fit on your laptop. All you have to do is plug in the laptop and load the new settings file.

 

Also, is a wideband 02 and absolute necessity just to get a conservative running tune, and could I bring my car to a dyno and have it tuned by a pro or am I on my own for tuning for the most part?

 

WB02 is good, but not absolutely necessary. I would recommend it and an EGT gauge if you are going to be running anything above 15psi. [iMHO]

Any tuner worth his salt should be able to take a look at MS and figure out how to tune it in no time. From what I understand, the setup is pretty similar to other stand-alone units.

 

Would you all recommend against me going MS if I was not a good tuner?

 

As long as you start off slow and safe and work the tune to a good performance level, you'll be fine. The key is to read all the info you can and understand as much of it as possible. There are plenty here willing to help out with any questions. If in the end you decide you are too afraid to do it youself, pay someone to do it on a dyno.

 

I had no tuning experience when I started about a month ago, and I haven't blown anything up yet. I dont have a WB02 either.

 

My main suggestion would be to make sure everything in the fuel, ignition, and motor is up to par. In my case, a bad coil caused headaches for 2 weeks. I was looking for the problem in MS the whole time when the problem was that the coil was wearing out. No matter what kind of stand-alone unit you get, you'll run into the same problems if everything else isn't ready for it.

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All said above. Original turbo map is good to 22psi. Many have gone far higher than that using an alternate MAP sensor. Yacoucci ran something like 35psi in the Busa Motor, at 10,500rpm.

Maps are good, and I store every one until I determine if I gained or lost when I g-tech it later. I have Moby's baseline stored with two tweaks particular to my install, and whenever any problems start, I go tothe "last known good run". When I will do the other car, I will start with the tweaked Moby Baseline, and start from there.

 

There REALLY is no reason for a "race and street" map. WOT is WOT, and unless you are using a WBO2 cruise will be the same as adjusted by the O2.

 

With a WBO2, and a switchable output, the only thing I would do with the Race/Street would be to use a race program with midrange closer to 13.5:1 AFR, instead of 16:1. Which you won't be able to tune for anyway without a WBO2...

 

You should be able to easily get a conservative street driving program in about two hours of tuning in the car with someone making adjustements. If you use the utilities for automatic VE tweaking, and datalog you may get closer faster, but in two hours you should have something driving that runs better than the stock EFI in most situations, and have seriously better throttle response.

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As far as I know with extra code you can have two maps in the ECU that you switch between based on some other input. For example, nitrous. When you activate nitrous the ecu switches itself to the second map that delivers more fuel. No reason you couldn't set up a button if you wanted that went to the computer and allowed you to switch between two maps, if you needed that. This is the kind of stuff that will get you into to unexplored territory, let us know how it works.

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Guest 81na ZX
The MAP sensor that comes with MS now can support about 21psi. you can purchase 3 and 4 bar sensors now i think which should take it way beyond what you will ever use.

 

It seems the easiest one to wire in - and possibly the most accurate - is the GM 3 bar sensor. GM PN: 16040749, Holley PN 538-23. The Echlin PN CRB219481.

Check out http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/3bar.htm

 

Oh, and 3bar can read about 29psi boost (depending on existing atm)

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