Nismo280zEd Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 About to undertake a long time needed project. I'm going to clean up the Z wiring, finish updating the little I have left, now that I have pretty much everything working electronically. The Plan: use a 1/8" or 3/16" piece of wood cut to fit under the passenger seat, maybe split it into two pieces not sure yet. Re-rout the fuseblock, all relays, all fuses (in-line etc.) anc circuit breakers onto this board. The board will have some sort of clip in clip out type moutn for easy removal without removing the seat. My problem is... I'm upgrading the fuseblock for the car since I use so many acces items. I can't decided wheter to go newer style, with ATC blade type fuse block, or stick with oem style with the glass ATO? I believe fuses. I can't seem to find any real advantage or disadvantages to either one. I've noticed the Marine stuff uses alot of glass type fuses while automotive seems to be leaning toward the blade fuses, are the glass more durable? Just curious, should be ordering parts this week. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 OK well i guess nobody is knowledgeable in this area, or feels it is a dumb question either way I have a very curious mind. So if anybody else out there is as curious as I am I found a very informative PDF write up on fuses. Pretty interesting I thought. http://www.wickmannusa.com/download/fuseology.pdf -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 I think the reason th e marine industry uses glass fuses is because they are sealed, while the blade style are open on the end. The blade style would take up less physical space, or maybe the newest mini blade style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 I would go with teh blade type fuses.....if for no other reason than you would never have to buy another fuse......I always grab a handfull from the JY...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 Well I originally wanted to go with the Glass type cartridge fuses, however i can't find a fuseblock with enough circuits on it. Bigges one i found was a 10 circuit gang AGC fuseblock. So i guess i'll go with pegasus's racing ATC blade type fuse block, they have a 20 cirucuit and a 10 circuit should be overkill. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 5, 2005 Author Share Posted March 5, 2005 OK well incase anybody ever read this later on, I found some fuse blocks I think will work. 12 circuits each, non bridged. They hold the AGC fuses (glass style cartridge) . Anyway.. here is a website with lots of usefull electronics. http://www.waytekwire.com also.. http://www.tiewraps.com < Hope this helps andybody later on doing electrical. Wayetek sells Bosch relays. cheers -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 22, 2005 Share Posted March 22, 2005 I'm going to use the mini ATC fuse block offered by http://www.Centechwire.com as it is the approximate size of the original fuse block. A big plus to me is screw-type wire connections instead of slip-on blade connectors. I have a spare (read that burned up) fuse block that I'll remove the pigtails from and reconnect to the new FB. This new FB (p/n PDR-3) has only one fuse for the headlights. Since I'll be converting to high current relays for the lighting circuit there should be no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 22, 2005 Share Posted March 22, 2005 I'm going to use the mini ATC fuse block offered by www.Centechwire.com[/url'] as it is the approximate size of the original fuse block. A big plus to me is screw-type wire connections instead of slip-on blade connectors. I have a spare (read that burned up) fuse block that I'll remove the pigtails from and reconnect to the new FB. This new FB (p/n PDR-3) has only one fuse for the headlights. Since I'll be converting to high current relays for the lighting circuit there should be no problem. I assume you mean the PDP-3, I can't find a PDR-3 at the web site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 26, 2005 Author Share Posted March 26, 2005 Well I ordered my fuse blocks a while back and they are still on back order. Kinda sucks. I ended up deciding to go with the AGC/AGU glass type fuses for reliability and I like the look better. Might cancel my order from Centech and get em from some place else. -Ed I as well am adding relays to my lights and I'm running Race Only Hellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 I'm currently accepting any spare Z fuse boxs you guys have.. send em my way. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Nismo, I'm kinda in the same ballpark as you, only I have to start from scratch. I've been collecting wiring diagrams like crazy. My original plan was to go with the push button style t/s switch with the self (timer) canx feature. But, I still kinda like the old style of the original. The main thing I'm doing is putting relays everywhere! I've been toying with the different fuse panels myself. I'm leaning toward the resettable breakers. I figure all I have to do is mount them inside my console box and they will be handy. I know, I have a lot of brain farts. Every wire connection to any switch will be well covered in aquanet hair spray. That way I'll be assured of not having them corrode. The reason I say hair spray, is because that's what the USAF uses on their electrical connections for theit 30 million dollar jet planes. I used to be a crew chief of an F-4 fighter. I figure if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for my Z. Note: Their electrical sealer come in an OD green can. Scratch the paint off and it says aquanet hair spray underneath. I swear, If I'm lyin, I'm dyin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 lol hmmm hair spray and lighter equals long flame of fire... I'm thinkn' this could end up in a bad electrical fire lol. Or is aquanet a fire resistant hairspray? Does make ya wonder though. I might have to do a test sample with some aquanet on my own hehe. Yeah... about 3 years back my car caught fire... I rewired everything from the firewall forward, now as it is, I've re-wired everything but the rear brake lights, , the speedo, the tach, the clock, and the antenna. Everything else on that damn car has been rewired. So yeah.. it wasn't planned it was usually that.. midnight tryn' to get home ghetto riggn' so i can fix it later wiring. So yeah, I have relays every where in the damn car, all my wiring colors would make a theif scream and run. I've got black for power here, some from ground here, some green here, orange, yellow, white lol yeah... It's unique! I've spent the past 8 months tryn' to clean up the wiring and remove the harnesses I don't need, slowly but surely I'm making progress. The recent completion of my dual relay headlights has made a huge difference in wire clean up. Good luck with your project. Maybe I'll post a couple pics of mine (scary!) -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I'm using your Honda wiper motor idea. I also downloaded the Honda wiring schematic for the wiper delay feature. I've come to the conclusion that the ones sold by JcWhitney are far more cheaper and a whole lot easier to install. Not to mention the hair you would save on your head by not having to pull it out. Make sure the aquanet hair spary is dried before you start with the sparks. I've used it on some of these new vans where the ignotion system is right up front and get soaked every time you go thru a mud puddle. Spray it down and forget about it not starting. I seal my whole ignition system, includin the cap, wires, and plugs. When I put some on my old chevy that had points, I had trouble getting the little window open to adjust the dwell. It works. As I said before, the USAF uses it on their multi million dollar aircraft. I'n still going to continue using it on all my cars. BTW, it works great on lawnmowers also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 alright you talked me into it... I'm gonna get a can of aquanet at Wal-Mart next time i'm there, sounds like a very good idea, so if it seels electrical.. does it keep polished AL from corroding from rain water? hmm the possibilites! BTW... are you refering to the flasher delays in JC Whitney or did you find something else to use? I'm going to do a full write up on it again and host it on a different page for people to reference once I get my car workn' again. Thanks for the Tip -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 They are actual wiper delay switches. It looks to be about the size of a deck of cards, maybe smaller. 2 different version are offered. Something like the regular and the delux models. I know they weren't too spendy for either one. It looked to me like the simple way to do it. They have a round knob, so one might even mount it behind the dash with the knob sticking out? While I have you....I seem to recall a certain heater setup. Are you the one who has it installed in their Z? If so, could you send me a writeup and pics? Or if they are already posted, Which thread? Thanx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 umm can't really help ya there... i use my stock 280z heater core and unit, actually it's not even hooked up right now (summer here in Houston,TX) Although I am researching a better blower motor. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I was just checking JcWhitney prices against some bids on ebay. I came across an add on fuse panel. They have 6-8-10-12-14-and a 18 circuit panel. The 18 goes for 22.99. Oh, they take the blade type fuses. I think I'd better order one. Also, the wiper delay switches...15.99 and the 19.99 comes with a mist push button. They both have a swivel bracket so you can mount them anywhere. I know I'm ordering the one with the mist button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted April 5, 2005 Author Share Posted April 5, 2005 Well i dont' know about the 240's and 260's but while doing this whole re-wire.. I cam across the intermitten relays for the 280 with the oem wiper.. It should be fairly easy to adapt it for the honda motor, then just splic into the in put with a rotor style resistance switch, then you can just turnt he knob to adjust your intermitten. I'll work on a schematic in the next couple weeks. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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