Suspension & brake pics

[Savage42]

This may be a dumb question' date=' but is the clevis really needed on the T/C rod? It seems like the plate that the clevis attaches to could have a stud welded to it, eliminating the clevis, but still giving full adjustment.

Sorry if this is dumb,

Joshua

 

EDIT: Actually, I do now see why it would help. It takes any bending load out of the T/C threaded rod. I guess the question still remains, is it really needed? How about for a street car?[/quote']

Yes, it is necessary if you adjust any amount of caster into the car. You get everything set and then tighten the clevis bolt once it's all set, which put no load on the rod. It's an integral part of having adjustablity without compromising integrity. My car is a street car and is the way to go. More caster is a good thing.

[Jolane]

I was thinking along the lines of not using the clevis, and instead loosening the two bolts that attach the T/C rod to the LCA. This would allow for the same adjustment as the clevis, to a point, just using screw hole clearances. Once the alignment was complete, these could be retightened also.

Certainly the adjustment would be more limited, but since the wheel is moving back and forth in the fender anyways (slightly I realize), maybe a lot of adjustment is not needed.

Joshua

 

The piece that forms the end of the TC rod, that connects to the LCA (boomerang looking thing), is that an OTS part, say from AFCO? I have seen very similar pieces in their catalog.

[JMortensen]

I was thinking along the lines of not using the clevis, and instead loosening the two bolts that attach the T/C rod to the LCA. This would allow for the same adjustment as the clevis, to a point, just using screw hole clearances. Once the alignment was complete, these could be retightened also.

That is exactly the way I do it. My T/C rods have the AFCO style end on them in 3/4" and I haven't had any problems in 40K miles of driving and racing.

[Savage42]

I was thinking along the lines of not using the clevis' date=' and instead loosening the two bolts that attach the T/C rod to the LCA. This would allow for the same adjustment as the clevis, to a point, just using screw hole clearances. Once the alignment was complete, these could be retightened also.

Certainly the adjustment would be more limited, but since the wheel is moving back and forth in the fender anyways (slightly I realize), maybe a lot of adjustment is not needed.[/quote']

Actually, you have to look at the big picture. If you were talking about just changing caster a little bit, then you might have enough clearance (slop) in the holes to do that. Unfortunately, you have to consider that if you have adjustable arms and are moving the arms outward to get more negative camber and adjusting camber, you are quickly well outside stock angles and a little play in the holes is gone probably just by playing with camber and before you adjust caster.

 

The piece that forms the end of the TC rod, that connects to the LCA (boomerang looking thing), is that an OTS part, say from AFCO? I have seen very similar pieces in their catalog.

Jerry made that piece (I believe) but clevis, heims, etc can all be bought and sleeve bought or made. Then you still have the mounting bracket. I figure that the time & hassle of trying to gather all the stuff makes it worth it to just buy them ready to bolt on. I never want to be cheap or cut corners on brakes or suspension because a failure there means an ugly car! Just my .42 cents.

[Jolane]

Please don't misunderstand me, I think they look great. I also very much agree about better safe than sorry. A failure of the front suspension at speed could be VERY ugly!

I am just trying to figure out what to do on my car. I want it set up for street driving. I do not expect to change the settings for racing. I am not sure the car will even ever be raced. I was thinking about setups with that in mind.

Thank you for the pictures. It is good to see how other have approached the problems as well.

Joshua