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Guest Battle Pope

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Guest Battle Pope

Sorry if I seem awfully n00bish, but I am. So, here we go. Anyone know much about building up a big-block chevy? I've got a bare original block and crank from a Chevelle SS (I think). I'm going to need heads, a rotating assembly, cam, IM and carb. All the good stuff. Can anyone recommend what I should get? I want a semi-lopey cam (rumbley) and a good carb, but everything else is up in the air. I'd like to be able to have a running motor for under 800 bucks in parts. Keep in mind I already have the block. Labor's not a huge issue.

 

Chevy guys, any help would be welcome. I've been into Hondas too long! (b-series this, d-series that...)

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I build easily 5 big blocks for every small block that goes thru the shop,youll be way ahead buying and reading these books and links below FIRST before spending your money , youll save THOUSAND$ of DOLLARS if you KNOW what your doing VS just wadeing in with a check book

 

and with $800 it is going to be really hard to build even a stock small block,big block parts tend to cost slightly more but then you can make better power levels , so it averages out, especially if the goal is over 500hp

 

 

http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html

 

http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html

 

http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm

 

 

[

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1557882169/qid=1075079777/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/102-1234339-0571324

 

1557882169.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0912656042/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

 

0912656042.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0895861755/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

 

0895861755.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1884089208/ref=pd_sim_books_1/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

 

1884089208.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1557883572/ref=pd_sim_books_3/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

 

1557883572.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0760302030/qid=1075080362/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

 

0760302030.01._PE_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

 

 

 

 

something to read

 

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/bigblockshootout/

 

heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc

http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm

 

http://www.protopline.com/racingaluminumbbc.asp

 

 

http://fteufert1.home.att.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm

 

http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep

 

http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore

 

http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval

 

http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/raceheadbbchev.html

 

http://www.dragraceresults.com/worldcastings/

 

 

http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html

 

general big block info!

 

http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headbbchev.html

 

http://roadsters.com/bbc/

 

http://www.teufert.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm

 

http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html

 

http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm

 

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECP/Chevy30.html

 

http://www.mortec.com/location.htm

 

http://home.hiwaay.net/~ppatter/patrick_budd_article.htm

 

http://www.bigblockchevy.com/BittnerBoyz/460Alky1500Hp.html

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7161pp.html

 

http://www.onlineperformanceparts.com/public/sales/ablock1.htm

 

http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/

 

http://www.directhits.com/ChevyDynoReport.asp

 

 

 

http://www.theengineshop.com/techinfo7.shtml

 

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html

 

http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/diabolical540.html

 

http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevyBB_290+.htm

 

http://avs.epix.net/schorrperformance/cams/_ChevyBB_290.htm

 

http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/extremevalue468.html

 

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/

 

 

 

big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw

 

http://maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

 

HERES AFRs 345cc head

 

AFR 345cc As Cast Magnum BBC Head

AFR’s Magnum Series

If “Dirty Harry†drove a racecar, it would certainly be fitted with a pair of our 345 or 357 “Magnum†cylinder heads. If huge horsepower is what you are searching for, either of these castings will certainly deliver. With our Race Ready “As Cast†345cc flirting with 400 CFM and our fully CNC ported 357cc flowing 425 CFM, these heads represent the ultimate in airflow for your BB Chevrolet. Our 357 “Magnum†flows over 415 CFM @ .700 valve lift! No other production style BB Chevy head even comes close. Both of these heads were targeted at larger cubic inch engines (509-632 CID) looking for maximum horsepower and rpm capability with a primary operating range of 3500-8000 rpm’s (This range is an average and will vary with engine displacement and component selection). These heads will also provide impressive torque figures at higher rpm levels. Blown, turbo, and nitrous engines will especially like the larger, higher flowing intake ports.Both of these heads will work best with camshafts exceeding .750 gross valve lift to make better use of the substantial airflow found in the higher lift range. Both the 345cc and the 357cc come standard with AFR’s trademark .750†thick head deck, reinforced rocker stud bosses, and are equipped with premium one piece stainless steel 2.300†intake valves and 1.880†exhaust valves. Standard combustion chamber volume is 119cc’s on the 345 “As Cast†pieces, while our fully CNC ported 357 version comes with a 121cc chamber. Both are available with an optional 114cc combustion chamber as well. Properly selecting the correct cylinder head depends on a large number of variables. Please consult with one of our sales technicians to assist you in making the best decision for your particular application.

 

Note:

Optional stud girdle required for 2° rolled valve angles and 1†longer head bolts needed on four bottom exhaust bolt holes.

 

BBC-right-angle.jpg

345cc-BBC-as-cast-graph.gif

 

 

 

new EDELBROCK big block heads

 

Victor 24° As-Cast Rectangular Port

The Victor 24° is the best standard port location head available for large bore (4.470" and larger) big-block Chevys. Based on the Victor head #77609, it features a rolled over deck, altered valve locations, and revised 115cc combustion chamber. The head has been angle machined 2.4° and the valve locations moved to improve flow and combustion efficiency. The new valve spread accommodates valve sizes up to 2.45" intake or 1.92" exhaust. The 345cc ports are significantly smaller than the 77609 but flow 400+ cfm, producing a higher velocity flow for improved throttle response. All geometry has been developed using Pro/E 3-D software to ensure the ultimate valve train tracking and stability. #77409 is finished with a valve job, port match and bowl blending, and comes with 2.30" intake and 1.82" exhaust valves. #77419 is a bare head without port matching or bowl blending. Other features include: spring pockets cut for 1.625" springs; 11/32" diameter bronze valve guides; ductile iron interlocking valve seats; heli-coiled exhaust bolt holes; and raised exhaust ports capable of flowing 300+ cfm. The valve cover rail is raised an additional .25" to retain the oil during valve adjustments. Matching stud girdle #7796 is available for use with stud mounted rocker arms.

Victor 24° (as-cast)

Chamber Size Bare (single) With Valves (single)

115cc #77419 #77409

 

 

 

7740.jpg

 

notice the EDELBROCK HEADS CLAIM A 400CFM/300CFM flow rateing that equals or betters the AFR flow numbers on their new heads!!

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Guest Battle Pope

Thanks for the recommendations on those books. I'm not really looking to make a huge motor, just a close-to-stock 396. Basically rebuilding the motor that was once there.

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Some point to consider…

 

1. Given the weight penalties of a big block, and the wide availability of 383+ cubic inch small blocks, a 396 BBC is probably not worth rebuilding, unless it’s a numbers-matching collector car. Start with a 454 block (or larger).

 

2. As the enthusiast market for BBCs is declining, the remaining BBC market is increasingly racing-oriented. This means big cams, huge-port heads, Dominator carbs, 2 ¼-primary headers, 12:1 compression dome pistons, and that sort of thing. So, maintain a critical eye; lots of the engine-building advice out there is race-oriented, not street-oriented – and the resulting combo could be unstreetable, especially in a relatively small-displacement engine and a heavy car.

 

3. One advantage of big blocks over small blocks is that stock parts, like cast cranks and 2-bolt-main blocks, will reliably survive at higher hp levels than would the analogous parts for small blocks. To some extent this can help save money.

 

4. The biggest cost difference between BBC and SBC is in the cylinder heads. Good aftermarket aluminum heads for the SBC are around $900; excellent SBC heads are around $1200. Good BBC heads are $2000+, and nice CNC-ported heads can reach beyond $3000. But again, note the tendency towards racing-parts, vs. street parts. The BBC cylinder head market is currently in flux; wait a few months for things to shake out.

 

5. Machining costs will add up. I started with a 454 from a 1978 Suburban. I recycled the block, mains, crank, rods, and damper. But the cost of machining and balancing, plus “minor†parts (pistons, pins, rings, bearings, rod bolts) was something like $1400. And make sure to get good (such as ARP) rod bolts, especially if you have 3/8â€-bolt rods.

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Guest Battle Pope

Thanks for those pointers - luckily, today I got a line on a complete, running 454 and 5-speed for 500 bucks. I'll be checking into that rather than rebuilding the 396.

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Guest 305240

Bar none...that's the best way to buy any used engine. pull a cold compression test, then run it and pull a wet compression test. That way you will be sure of what you are getting. The 5 speed is a good addition also. good score. Now be on the lookout for an R200 rear, a set of srtut bars and a roll bar will help to keep the body from twisting.

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