oil pan modifications

[peej410]

well ive got my motor mocked up and i found a height i like (doing custom mounts for my v8 ) however the pan sits 2 inches lower than the cross member haha. so i was wondering where i can do some reading on modifying the pickup and the pan without damaging things... any info appreciated and here are some pictures http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=1a78

[Mikelly]

PEEj, My recommendation would be to buy one of the Cheap oilpans that Grumpy posted last week... and get the pickup with it, then modify THAT pan to fit the crossmember... You want to start with a winged 7inch deep pan and go from there... The pan in your pick looks like a traditional deep 8.5 inch sump pan.

 

Mike

[peej410]

PEEj' date=' My recommendation would be to buy one of the Cheap oilpans that Grumpy posted last week... and get the pickup with it, then modify THAT pan to fit the crossmember... You want to start with a winged 7inch deep pan and go from there... The pan in your pick looks like a traditional deep 8.5 inch sump pan.

 

Mike[/quote']

hrmm if i could cut down an inch and a half that would be awesome, let me see if i can dig them up. while im at it i have another question you might be able to help with. im making these custom mounts and welding them to my framerails... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/peej410/album?.dir=/ed15&.src=ph

 

those are the photos. the last pair of mounts i made had 1/4 angle iron that sat on the frame and were bolted through and welded to the frame. those held very well, this time i want to fully weld them and i feel the 1/4in angle is overkill. my question is... is the 1/8in in my frame with an extra piece of 1/8 added strong enough ? or should i use 3/16 angle and fully weld it... i cant decide seeing that im not exactly sure in this circumstance how the frame rail would hold up...

[grumpyvette]

go to

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/

then

(order online)

(search BY DISCRIPTION)

(OIL PAN)

PART# MWM 15120 or MWM 15121

 

look at the picture (it can be enlarged)

 

this is a very good starting place for a high performance oil pan, and check for clearance issures with your frame, headers,ETC. then simply extend the pans sump forward to the max your application allows

and weld a door hinge over the 4-5 1/2" holes you drill in the orriginal forward sump so that it swings very easily to allow oil flow towards the pump but swings with the oil to block flow away from the pump

oil pan capacity can be easily custom made between 8 and 10 qts

and for under $100 if you do the mods

BTW use a sheet of poster board to mock up your sheet metal sump mods and tape to simulate welds to trial fit and make a pattern to use before cutting the sheet metal with the pan temp bolted to the block while your under the car to avoid clearance issues...I usually use 12 ga steel sheet for good impact strength but its up to you! and a TIG weld distorts the pan far less than oxy-acetolene or mig

__________________keep in mind your pump and main caps/crank extend about 5" below the block so you can,t get an EFFECTIVE OIL CONTROL DESIGN in a shallower oil pan than about 6.75"-7.25" unless you get a DRY SUMP application

[peej410]

wow now the hinged thingies make alot more sense heh, thanks grumpy, and mike! while ive got your attentions, what do you guys think of a 3 quart accusump for prelubing my bearings and such and an oberg type oil filter. not sure if your familiar with them but they are a sandwich with 60 micron screen in them, i got both the accusump and the oberg for 20 each at a swapmeet last year...

[grumpyvette]

for $40 I can,t see how you can go wrong, provided you take the effort and time to CORRECTLY,CLEAN,CHECK,AND INSTALL THEM

[peej410]

what do you think of the motor mount dillemma?

[Mikelly]

I just installed my Accusump in my Car (Inside against the firewall) and they work well... I currently have 8AN lines for it, but honestly recommend 10AN line and fittings instead... I may upgrade all mine over time... The larger line helps oil flow! The Oberg is nice, but complex... I'd look at the canister type units from Canton, and System1! Also, I run an adapter off the block and hang the cannister for the filter up front in front of the radiator. This allows for the canister to get fresh cool air around it, is made of thick aluminum, so isn't prone to damage from rocks or debris, and is a cheap mans oil cooler! It also makes oil changes that much easier!

 

On the mounts, I'd use the thickest stuff you can get... That factory rail isn't that thick, so you really want to beef the rail up where you are welding the mount... I'd "C" the inner side of the frame about 6-8 inches with 1/8 to 1/4 plate and then weld the mount to it... Be sure to brace the under underside of the mount... Lots of weight and load there... which is why the factory crossmember is employed on all the swap kits offered.

 

Cheers!

Mike

[peej410]

hrm i dont know if you noticed but my frame rails are no longer factory, they are 2x3 1/8th wall ...