Getting rid of the rubber engine mounts??

[shauno]

I know it's been discussed before but mainly it has to do with the v8 swaps, not the L6 guys.

I've been searching the site for days looking for a solution to get rid of my ripped driver side mount but still retain some flexibility up front. I'm running a solid diff and tranny mount but my engine does flex alot under shifting (turbo, ceramic clutch, 275's)

I have found that I can replace just the driver side with something solid and leave the passenger stock. Is this a good idea?

Is there a piece out there that I can purchase or do I have to resort to cutting and welding?

Does anyone have any pics of there solutions?

Maybe a shift in the right direction?

 

Thanks in advance.

[johnc]

Either go all solid (engine and trans mounts) or all rubber/poly. A mixture of the solid and flex will start bending and breaking things. A classic example is putting a solid front diff mount in and leaving the moustache bar bushings rubber. The diff still torques and slowly tears apart the front diff crossmember. Similar things happen when the engine mounts are left flexible and the trans is mounted solid.

 

You can make solid engine mounts out of properly sized aluminum blocks. Make them about 1/16" thinner then the stock rubber mount thickness then drill and install threaded steel inserts for the mounting bolts. You should also box the stock mount supports on the crossmember.

 

Now, from this point forward, you're going to have to constantly check fasteners on the car to make sure they are not vibrating loose.

[shauno]

Thanks John,

 

Your info is appreciated.

I will start making my own right away for all the drivetrain bits.

 

 

Thanks

[Clifton]

You could fab up some mounts with these http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm. Nearly everyone in rockcrawling use these, keeps the motor intact even when you roll. They transmit a little more vibration at idle than stock mounts but I don't notuice the difference above that.

[katman]

In the tension side (driver's side), I've bored a hole completely through the rubber and both plates right at the stud which attaches the engine mount blockto the front crossmember. Then, with a long bolt, put a poly washer and a metal washer on the engine side of the flat plate part of the mount (the piece with the two treaded holes) and bolt it all to the crossmember.

[510six]

I used a short cable that is bolted over and under the drivers side motor mount.It keeps the motor mount from being sheared off when launching the car under N20 on slicks.It looks like a grounding strap but is much stronger.I purchaced it from http://www.mcmaster.com