Differences between 70 and 73 Chassis

[Dayz]

HI,

 

I am restoring a 1970 240z for my father, and would like to know the differences between the 1970 and the 1973 chassis: In Fact all the chassis parts.

 

It would be easyer to take all the parts from my 73 that are laying around, sandblast them, repaint them and transfer them to my 1970 when I am ready. I like the fact that it is a rolling chassis for the moment.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Erik

 

240z-1970 restoration as original

240z-1972 For sale...needs restoration

240z-1973 Street machine in progress

[technicalninja]

Pretty much all chassis parts are the same dimensionally and should change over with no issues. Most 70s had a TRE shaft diameter that was smaller than 71 and up. Outer TREs are hard to find because of this and the 71 and up stuff is stronger/more avaiable. I have heard some very early cars had a rear control arm location issue that was updated although I have never seen this. Often times the early 240s had parts which were manufactored differently so their appearance is slightly different from the later parts. Early oil pans are an example- Very weird when compared to a normal pan. Your signature line says "restoration as original". Only pinheads like me would notice but I would be able to tell a "poser" from an original 70.

Nissan went through some massive growth problems just after the release of the Z and parts vendors did change at the drop of a hat.

If you must stay as perfectly stock as possible swap out the entire 73 chassis parts. Unbolt entire sections with-out dissembly, stick it in 70 for rolling gear and re-do the 70 stuff and reinstall later.

If originality is not as big an issue use all of the 73 stuff as it maybe better build quality (3 years debugging by Nissan).

I am not a stickler for originality but if your 70 is truly nice it will retain its highest value in an "as delivered form".

A 70 I had (#3252) had strange front rotors (original) that had large "windows" in their hat sections. Very noticable and easy to catch if you know what to look for. It had weird shape front WB caps, Different shape on brake line mounting hardware. Little things like this are the main differences.

[Guest bastaad525]

Tell you what, I test drove a friends '73 a couple weeks ago, I have a '72... and his doors were MUCH more heavy than the doors on my car... we both agreed on that.

 

Not really important I know but just thought it worth mentioning...

[hat1324]

Tell you what' date=' I test drove a friends '73 a couple weeks ago, I have a '72... and his doors were MUCH more heavy than the doors on my car... we both agreed on that.

 

Not really important I know but just thought it worth mentioning...[/quote']

was it actually the door? or was it just more heavy to close? My roommates S10 doors feel SO MUCH lighter then mine, and its just that my hinge sux at life.

[zgeezer]

There are LOTS of small differences. Generally, there will be wide swapability between all years of the 240Z. Less between the 260 and 280 versions.

 

If restoration is your goal, then forget any '73 parts and stick to your '70. And there are a number of other websites that will help you in a restoration.

 

Here are three differences that would not bother any one seeking hybrid vigor (viagra?):

Emergency cables: the 70's are lighter and smaller in diameter than your 73.

Vapor recovery tank: Yep, think smog and it's located behind the passenger side rear trim. This is a white plastic tank that will survive about 48 hours in our southwest sun and it is unique. Nothing else will fit without some fabrication (cut, burn, weld, and grind). It is also expensive to replace unless you find one in a pull apart jy.

Front Hubs, bearings & brake rotors: At least three different offsets. This means you c/n use your 73 hub with a 70 brake disk (rotor) and vice versa.

 

Wish you luck, which ever way you go.

 

g

[Pop N Wood]

The early 240's, through 71 1/2, had the rear diff mounted 35 mm farther forward. Caused a half shaft vibration due to the increased angularity. It is a very worth while upgrade to fix this with the later year mounting brackets and longer driveshaft.

 

But I suppose if you are trying to be historically accurate....

[Dayz]

Thanks guys, this is what I needed. I am not a purist in any way, but I just bought a 1970 from San Diego without rust, 99% rust free with all the parts except it has mag wheels and not hubcaps. I guess I will have to put it in the rotisserie and just use the existent parts.

 

Sorry If I sound like a purist, It is just that I got a deal on that 1970 and it would be a crime to redo the frame rails, cage and...since it has no rust and all the parts are ther.

 

All your imputs are welcome, Yes guys you can be some pin heads since I want to restore this one as stock as possible.

 

Erik

[Pop N Wood]

Nothing wrong with perfectly restored 240. Wouldn't mind having one myself.

 

It is just that these cars are so much fun to modify and respond so favorably to it. Also a lot cheaper then trying to get accurate parts.

 

The only real problem with purist is their self righteous attitude towards other people's cars. Doesn't sound like you fall into that catagory.

 

I assume you are have visited http://www.zhome.com. They have some excellent resources for restoration Z's.