75280z Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 OK i got my turbo swap done the other day, i am still waiting on an exhaust.. but that isnt my problem.. When i was wiring up my car i tried to start it and it didnt start, but in the middle of cranking it just stopped.. i can jump it accross the cylonoid and she starts right up.. I am pretty sure it isnt the ignition switch because i have tried 2 other ones and none of them worked.. i have a 1975 280z with an 82 (i am pretty sure) 280zx engine and 280zx starter.. Thank you for the help.. The thing i think is the weirdest is that is just stopped working.. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 it sounds like the power wire you hooked to your ecu isn't hot during cranking! unblug the trigger wire from your started and rotate your key to the cranking position, while holding the key pushed forward as if you were starting the car check the power supply you wired to the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted May 7, 2005 Share Posted May 7, 2005 This sounds like your starter relay is getting old. You can either find it and replace it with a new relay or you can run a whole different circuit. To run another circuit you need a relay. Then run another wire from the starter go back inside the car. Use your starter wire from the ignition as the input for the relay. Here is the pin layout. Pin 30 - connect to the new wire going to the starter selenoid pin 85 - Connect to ground Pin 86 - Connect to starter wire from ignition Pin 87 - Connect to constant 12V source thru a 20A fuse Here is a problem I found with a relay before: My sunroof would close but not open. I can hear the relay clicking. I open it up and I can see the selenoid kicking the switch.. But I look closer and it never made the contact. I guess it been kicking the other leg for so many times the other leg eventually lean to 1 side and won't make any more contact. Therefore no work.. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75280z Posted May 9, 2005 Author Share Posted May 9, 2005 OK that sounds like a good idea, but where can i get a relay, and is there a certain kind i need because i dont know very much about relays.. thank you guys for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 Any auto part store should have relays and the relay sockets. However they are not cheap in the auto parts store. Try Kmart or Walmart they may have it cheaper. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75280z Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hey i just fund a relay in my garage that was in great condition so i might try to wire her up today i will let you guys know whether it works.. Thank you for all the help so far.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75280z Posted May 16, 2005 Author Share Posted May 16, 2005 I found out that wiring in a new relay didnt work still the wire running to the cylonoid is only getting 5.5 volts, could that mean that my ignition switch is bad?? if so i have another ig. switch and it only ran 5.5 volts too, what could be the problem? thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the starting system go thru the fusable links by the battery area? I was told they do, but have never traced them out myself. I have a 74 with the same problem, and was told it was the fusable link causing the problem. Otherwise, a push button starter is in the works for a temp fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 I don't understand.. The wire to the coil is the one you suppose to connect from the new relay to give it 12V while cranking. If you get 5.5 Volts that means your power supply (the constant 12V source to the relay) doesn't provide enough juice. Your battery might has a dirty connection or your fusible link is fried and barely conduct electricity. Clean up all your connections at the battery post and check for continuity for the fusible links and make sure you get 12 at the ignition without cranking the car. Then check it again by just turn the key to run.. Then check it when cranking.. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danc Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 I've been struggling adnauseam with what sounds like the same problem with my 83 SBC 280ZX. I've exhausted every idea passed along on this and other forums to solve it within the stock ZX wiring harness. No such luck with a lot of time and energy spent! I finally bought an "Ignited" push button starter and used a Beuler 40/50 Amp relay (part# BU-5083-0000. I made a cover for what used to be the plate with cruise control on it for the Ignited button, and it looks factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 In reading these posts over and over, something just dawned on me. I've had 3 Zs with the same problem. After cleaning the solinoid inside and out, the Ignition switch, the problen still persisted. I could take the Ign switch out and it would start great with a screwdriver, but not with the key. By accident, I realeased the key from the start position just a tad and it started! I tried this over and over with it starting every time on all 3 cars. I believe it's a worn Switch/tumbler that's causing the problems. Rather than spring for a new one, I just slack off it a tad and it starts. Sometimes I'm cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.