olie05 Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Recently i took off my left hood louvre completely to help with my vapor locking problem. I want to know though, will putting the louvre back on suck more air out of the engine compartment when i'm moving or will having just a hole there move more air? thanks -Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
materchan Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 why not throw down a couple bucks and get a aftermarket fuel rail. i have one and i never get vaporlocking problems. you can use the stock fpr. sorry i cant help you about the airflow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted June 7, 2005 Author Share Posted June 7, 2005 i have a fuel rail. And when I posted a while back about the problem, i said I had one but no one told me it would help with vaporlocking. Hmm... I'm going to have to install that bad boy now. Thanks! -Oliver Anyone have any input for the louvre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 This is just a guess mind you, but I think that with the louvers off it will allow more air to leave the engine bay. Won't by moving air over the opening be like having your windows open. I know that with an exhaust leak in the rear with the windows open you pull air into the car through that opening in the back. I would guess that the same would be true with the hood. Plus we are all forcing a ton of air into the engine bay because of the large front on these cars. Unless you put a scoop on the vent air should leave. But be careful when it rains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Do you still have the chinpan on the underside of the motor? Those get removed a lot and that often results in overheating problems. The cin pan keeps air from coming up under the car instead of being forced thorugh the radiator. Also, I assume you have the heat shield between the exhaust & intake manifolds. That will go a long way with reducing vapor lock. I drove my L28 here in Texas for nearly 10 years and 100,000 miles and never had a serious vapor lock. I had the occaisional times when I'd have a rough idle inititally but that would disappear within about 30-45 seconds and it would then be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Yes, heat shields work. Ugly but functional. I build one on my 76 retro-turbo around my turbo and a little bit under the intake with 1/8" alum. plate. No vapor lock problems now and the intake has uniform temperature from front to back. The intake was 50 degree hotter on the back half of the engine (under the turbo), but not anymore. I would get vapor locking during long idle periods or from a re-start after a long drive. I always heard fuel rails make more vapor lock problems? The big mass of aluminum fuel rail gathers and holds a bunch of heat. That is what I read but have no first hand experience. You are not overheating right? Just vapor locking, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted June 8, 2005 Author Share Posted June 8, 2005 I don't have the chinpan under the motor. My car didn't come with one. Should I install one? I'm vapor locking because I couldn't fit the heat shield with the headers, so I left it off. I'm thinking a header blanket should cure the problem. My car is not overheating. It's just vapor locking. And It hasn't done it in a while. I think what really helped was removing the rain gaurd from underneath the left louvre. Of course I removed the louvre too, but I'm trying to decide if I should put it back on. -Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaysZ Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 i heard wrapping the header will eventually cause it to rust.. unless its stainless i guess. the condensation will get locked in. just a thought. on a side note, you still havent installed that fuel rail?! lol. do you still have that fuel cell, i might want to buy it from you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briann510 Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 you can just use a header blanket if you like instead of wrapping the header. just lay it on top of the header which still allows it to breathe so to speak. when iwas running a header blanket i just laid it between the header and intake carbs and it worked just fine. now i just use the piece wrapped under the carbs and intake and not laying on the header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted June 8, 2005 Author Share Posted June 8, 2005 Went to the performance shop today and they recommended header wrap. I told them I heard about rusting out the header with it, and they said that since its a daily driver I won't have any problem because any moisture will just evaporate with the heat. (since its on everyday) Is there any material i could buy at lowes or home depot that would work like briann510 was saying, between the intake and exhaust but mostly on the intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ZRED Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 header wrap is death for the header, trust me on that. I had mine only for 2 weeks, on a brand new header, and it messed it up and I dont mean surface rust! It did make a HUGE difference in heating of the engine bay tho. I could actually mess with the SU's now without burning my hands or wearing wet gloves.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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