Drftn280zxt Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 My engine occasionally will spit and sputter while under throttle. It is almost as if the rpms are being severely cut off. One thing that I did discover was that there was some moisture on the ECU connectors. So I dried them off plugged everything back in, and if ran just find no sputting under throttle. Then two days of no problems followed. Then just yesterday when I was about to leave work it did it again. So I removed the connectors, no moisture this time, plugged them in and it ran fine once again. My dad is a Master Technician at Planet Nissan here in Las Vegas, he told me that he had seen many 280zx turbos come in with this problem and the techs would simply just unplug and reinsert the connectors and the problem would disappear. He was wondering if there is a permanent fix for this problem, and also why exactly it is doing this, what is the problem. Could the be getting overly warm sitting in the Vegas Sun in 100+ degree weather? Also the days that these results oocured they only occurred after the car had sat in the sun for several hours, there was no sputtering on the drive to work early in the morning. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Note in the past I have had problems with water getting in the the throttle position switch, but in the cases lately the throttle position switch was dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 I had the same problem on my z. First next time it starts to miss wiggle the wires back and forth. If it goes away then you will need to buy new connectors and cut and splice your wiring harness. If that doesn't help and it only goes away when you remove and insert then use some di-electric grease. It is used for electric connectors for this such problem. You can find it at most auto parts stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drftn280zxt Posted June 16, 2005 Author Share Posted June 16, 2005 So the problem is entirely electrically based, mechanicals have nothing to do with the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 I have named this problem "stock EFI gremlins". Its not sensores, heat or anything that you can replace and fix. The problem stems from our factory harness. Very high resistance in the wiring and the plug. After years they become crap, and if your work on your car alot, the worse it gets. The sure fix in my opinion is a standalone EFI system. The reason I am a specialist in standalone EFI today is because the problems you are having right now. If your not into the idea of spending $1,100.00 on a standalone (from me). I would suggest looking for a EFI set up with distributor from a normally asperated 79ish ZX. If you look at the plug at the ECM from a NA car you can see it is a lock in type. The only thing you would have to watch out for is timing. The distributor controlls time fully on a N/A. Make sure you have a timing light with a dial to adjust to no more than 25degrees advance and all will be well. I've gone threw this BS and I hate it. If you want the best way out, go standalone. Option B is not too bad either. Car will be alot faster too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 My 280ZXT did the same thing. Use dielectric grease on the connectors or Dow Corning DC-4.( available at aircraft supply places). Hey Alex, do you have a phone number you can be reached at? I had a few questions about your standalone and other parts. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b__sosick Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 fuel pump issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drftn280zxt Posted June 18, 2005 Author Share Posted June 18, 2005 I had a sense it was just because the car is old, no surprise there. Just out of curiosity do YOU make the standalone or is some name brand (HKS, Greddy, APEXi, AEM) to name a few? Just someything I should consider in the future. Thanks for all the input guys/girls if there are any (girls that is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 My 280ZXT did the same thing. Use dielectric grease on the connectors or Dow Corning DC-4.( available at aircraft supply places). Agreed. Dielectric grease on ALL of the connections can go a long way towards solving or lessening the frequency of this problem. Get yourself a tube of the grease from an electrical parts supply store. Also get yourself a can of brake parts cleaner spray. Disconnect every connector, ECU, AFM, injectors, sensors, CAS. Spray them off with the brake parts cleaner. Let them dry than apply the dielectric grease. I used to have problems anywhere from every few days to every couple of weeks, after applying the grease I"ve had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatRaveR Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 I'm also considering a stand-alone for my '82 ZXT, even though I'm not having any problems. I heard that with a Megasquirt system, I'd have to swap out distributors because the MS couldn't deal with the timing or something like that. Anyone know if a higher end standalone like Electramotive or TecIII also require swapping distributors or other stuff when installing in a ZXT? It's all so intimidating to me! ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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