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HybridZ

new tension rods ?


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I saw this on ebay, and I've seen others that have created their own.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42609&item=7982293992&rd=1

 

just thought I'd post this here for you guys to look at and discuss :D

 

do they look well built ? worth the ammount for them ? any design flaws you can think of ?

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It's tough to comment on them without actually holding it in your hands, but they look fine to me. I paid $275 to have a machinist make mine. I think just on the surface I like the "savage" adjustable TC rod better. You might want to search for that and see if Auxilary is still trying to get a group buy together.

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They look pretty good to me, nice and shiny anyway ;)

 

One thing though is that the pics in the ad might not actually be of the Datsun Z versions, as the seller is using the same linked pic in an ad for AE86 Corrola rods and also for the 510 version. I was thinking the bolt spacing on the bent end didn't look quite wide enough.

 

http://www.technotoytuning.com/misc/TCROD1.jpg

 

Any disadvantage to having the control arm end a fixed one piece rather than using a clevis joint like the Savage arms?

 

Cheers,

Rob

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When you get to the really extreme caster settings the clevis allows the end to pivot so that there isn't any preload on the end of the TC rod. The guy who made mine was aware that there is a potential for stress on the bar because of this, so I was told to make sure that whenever the caster was changed the front bolts were loosened, and that they were only retightened with the weight of the car on the suspension (not tightened with the suspension at full droop).

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I agree. Also using adjustable transerve link arms would cause more binding with that design. Just can't see how it is possible to make any adjustments in the TC or transverse link without a clevis pivot.

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I agree. Also using adjustable transerve link arms would cause more binding with that design. Just can't see how it is possible to make any adjustments in the TC or transverse link without a clevis pivot.

Just leave the holes sloppy and tighten everything down at ride height. Worked for me for the past 8 years.

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