echocluster@hotmail.com Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 i put in a 280 motor put in my 240z. i had a mechanic rebuild it. i am ready to start it today , but my mechanic wanted to pre-oil it. is that possible on an engine like this? would it be worth it to try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Not one hundred percent sure but I think you can take out a spark plug and squirt some oil into it. That's what I am going to do anyway on the engine I just got that has sat for 7 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbuild Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 You can also pull your coil lead out and and the plugs out and rotate the engine over for a short while until the oil pressure comes up, then reconnect things and start it for real. cheers - Zbuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I made a jig up to reach down inside the distributor hole and engage the oil pump slot, then ran the jig on a electical drill in reverse till oil squirted out the cam holes/ spray bar. You must temp remove the distributor and drop the oil pump to remove the drive gear. Then just put the oil pump back on W/O the drive gear, so that you can spin the oil pump with a drill, then once you have oil preasure, MAKE SURE TO PUT THE OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR back in properly, so that you can re alline the slot for the distributor to be timed correctly. All you need is something that will reach the slot in the oil pump, so that you can spin the pump to pre lube the motor.... hope this makes sense to you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 When I got my motor back, the guy who rebuilt it said it would be fine to just fill the oil and go. The assembly lube took care of the first 'dry' start, and it doesn't take much to get the oil pumping. I rolled the motor over a few times with the coil disconected anyway, to be safe. Have to make sure to change the oil right away (after first start and heat cycle) as it gets contaminated with the assembly lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 yeah any good engine builder will use good engine assembly lube that will take care of the bearings during the initial turn over. Do as everyone else here is saying, however, I would disconnect the fuel somehow as well. In an EFI car you can either disconnect the fuel pump relay or disconnect the ECU itself, in a carbed car you would have to disconnect a fuel line. This way when you're turning it over you wont flood the cylinders... not that you're really going to turn it over enough to flood them, a few seconds should do, but this way all that unburnt fuel doesn't pool up and seep down the cylinder walls into your fresh new oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I know to use assembly lube and all, but I heard to use "junk oil" for like the first 1000 miles to help brake it in, is this true? I believe I heard it on supr2nr tv when it was on the air. (now the hosts are doing a show on the history channel racing vintage cars called Full Throttle. They raced 2 240z on one episode) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 No not 'junk oil' whatever the heck that is. Just use regular oil, I believe the recommendation is to use straight 30 weight oil for break in? I use Castrol 30w for the first 1000 miles then switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81280zxtc Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 No not 'junk oil' whatever the heck that is. Just use regular oil' date=' I believe the recommendation is to use straight 30 weight oil for break in? I use Castrol 30w for the first 1000 miles then switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30.[/quote'] As far as "junk oil", I don't know what junk oil is and wouldn't take a chance on using it. When I finished my rebuild, I bought a Motul engine oil that had no detergents or coking agents in it for break in. It was a natural oil that was almost clear and used it for about 700 miles. My understanding that oils with detergents are not supposed to be good for a "fresh" engine. My .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted July 4, 2005 Share Posted July 4, 2005 As for 'junk oil' , thats what I called it in a previous post, although I wasn't talking about old used oil. What I think he ment (as I did) was NON synthetic oil. (I just used cheep wallmart brand oil for startup, changed it after heat cycle, and again after 500 miles or so. Running synthetic now) If you use synthetic on initial startup, the engine won't break in properly. My .02$ (canadian though.. whats the exchange rate today? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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