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TT 350 Update


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Just an update, I've decided to go with the gale banks blow through twin turbo system and I'm staying with the dart block 350 with 13:1 static compression and going to run 16 psi boost on alcohol. I'm sending a 750 holley to C&S to have it modified to run blow through alcohol and increased in size to 1000 cfm which requires new billet venturi's and baseplate. For a cam I'm going to go with Comp 12-704-8 solid roller, 255/262 @ .050 and .575 lift on both with a 114LSA. The whole package should be less than 3K.

 

I think I'll run it with 10PSI boost to start with and bump it up later if it all holds up.

 

Hanns, do you feel that there is a big bullseye on your back, Muhahahaaaa....

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Hanns, do you feel that there is a big bullseye on your back, Muhahahaaaa....

 

OK, I give up.:shock:

 

I'm actually looking forward to your buildup. If nothing else just to see how you fit the turbos in. BTW, if this is a competition I have to explain the rules to you.

 

* No Alcohol,

* Homemade Exhaust Manifolds only,

* No commercially prepared Carb,

* Low compression ratio,

* Mild cam,

* No cutting of inner fenderwells or hoodscoop,

* Full exhaust system with mufflers,

* D.O.T. legal tires,

* Registration and Insurance.

 

So there,:)

Hanns

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I'm still laughing........ Actually, there is little chance the z will ever be able to hook up that kind of power. Rather than build a new motor with good crank, great rods, afr heads, I was looking at spending another 10K. In all my earnest investigation, it was the concensus of the guru's that I could puff a 12.5:1 engine to the tune of 20 to 30 psi boost on alky and only on alky. Next, was finding a kit or fabbing one like you did hans. I guess I could fab one, but, being in the situation that I'm in, working all the time cause I'm self employed, yeah mike, it's 10PM and I just got home an hour ago and I left at 5:30AM, better get used to it.

 

Oh, where was I, it seemed better to just use the engine I already had, so if I use a solid roller then I don't have to change springs. I have to pull the intake anyway so cam change it is. I have a new pan as well, so it's simple really.

 

No alcohol, damn, I was going to get poop faced and slap it together in one night.

 

The exhaust manifolds are homemade by Banks and not sold in stores.

 

In arkansas there is no such thing as commercial, just a bunch of hicks in the woods with a big drill bit modifying carb passages so you can put your pocket change through it if you have to. Doubles as a piggy bank when not in use.

 

My diesel dodge runs 17:1 compression so this is low in relation to that.

 

Any cam with lift less than .600 is a grocery getter candidate in my book and suitable for drivers over 80 years of age.

 

What's a fenderwell? Does water come out? Hoodscoop? Is that what you use to get icecream? System is designed to fit under a vette hood, so I'm sure it'll fit under a stock z hood.

 

Do my bullet mufflers count? The local police didn't think so, but I think they'll be ok.

 

It ain't illegal until you get caught! Besides, we don't have D.O.T here, just snakes and rabbits.

 

Nobody here in NM has insurance, cause it's a waste of money, besides all the tourists here have insurance and when they hit us residents, we sue. Registration, I registered for school once, does that count? Honestly registration is just another way your rich uncle gets richer while us poor schmucks can barely manage to sink 20K into a little project that is gratifying but a waste of money to satisfy a speed junkie.

 

All that aside, if I hooked up the headlights it would be street legal, well, registration and insurance, but my agent is a money hungry witch that flies a different broom every day of the week and I'm sure she wouldn't notice when I put 8 for the number of cylinders. I could tell her it's a straight 8 like the old buicks had.

 

I'm still laughing Hanns................

 

Fit the turbo's in, well, I thought of using a hammer and a torch, mostly torch, but I'm going to have to install the engine and tie the front frame section to the roll cage for a true 10 point system. Besides, I don't want a pretzel when I'm done do I?........

 

It might look like poop when I'm done, but I'll bet it'll haul some tail as long as you can stay in it and as long as it hooks!

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Oh yeah, NM is more friendly and cheaper, but we work for $6/hr so that's why. Insurance is a joke, I've been living here for 40+ years, had 5 accidents involving 2 vehicles which were not my fault and nobody but me had insurance.

 

When I start either of my cars the cops show up cause somebody complains, but really they want to see what I've done now and what I'm going to do next.

 

When I get the system, I'll take pics to post and try to see how it'll all work.

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Banks is expensive but Vortech and ATI are ungodly considering they don't make near the torque/power. Midrange torque is your friend...I wish my TA (vortech) had more.

 

Hanns I can play by those rules if you call Holley Stealth Ram + 80lb injectors "not a commercially prepared carb" (hey, it isn't, right :-D )

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Yeah, I've got a buddy, Glen Johnson, that has a chevy 2 with a 350 hydraulic .480 lift cam, pro 1 heads and with a procharger, not sure which one, but I know it's not a race version. His car runs low 10's, like 10.05 at 135 mph. He has traction problems at midtrack and the top end. He tubbed the car put wider tires to no avail running MT et streets. Must be a real bummer having too much power!

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  • 7 months later...

Ok, got the valve covers scalloped to clear the snails, Work it baby! I'll post pic's tomorrow. Everything fits fine so I don't have to redo the exhaust. Tomorrow I'm going to Edwards to drop of the DSM engine block, crank and goodies to have it all machined so I'll pick up a set of roller cam pushrods and then come weld the oil pan drainbacks tomorrow, finish the engine and get ready to install it. The engine is going in the monte for now. I don't think the z needs or can handle that much HP, so I'll build another TT motor for that later this summer and we'll go streetable, but with good HP.

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If you go with the Comp Cam be sure you custom order it and get it on a billet core. DO NOT use the austempered cast core they sell for a roller cam.

Also, roller cam pushrods... better check the length before you spend the bucks, roller lifter pushrod cups and roller cam base circles are all over the place, so check the length before you buy.

 

Crower Severe Duty lifters seem to keep the pushrod cup in the same location as a typical flat tappet so you are more likely to use a near stock length pushrod, or same as you had before with a flat tappet cam...

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My understanding is that the cast core roller that comp sells, starts to flake off on the lobes at some point when used at boost levels of 15psi or greater. I've heard that this has happened from two people I know that have used that cam, and comp tech guys didn't recommend that cam for boost levels above 12psi or serious hp engines like the one I'm building. So there is probably something to the stories I've heard. Comp also said that the AFR heads and the banks exhaust housings are soo efficient that I wouldn't need very much duration.

 

Getting the snails to clear the strut towers in the z is a problem. Going to have to fab up some kind of an exhaust or go tubular chassis. I tried a GT37R turbo for valve cover fitment last night, since there was one on the DSM motor, and the exhaust housing clears a tall uncut valve cover with no problems whatsoever. I'm thinking on leaving this engine in the monte, building another much milder motor for the z. Buying me some GT42's for the monte and using these Rayjay 300's on the z.

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Why would you use an inferior product when you can get a custom ordered billet core came with a cast iron gear for ~$25 more?

 

I will not use a cast core on a roller came PERIOD. If I build a motor and someone brings me that cam, they don't get a motor built.

 

I use a custom cam grinder who does most of my stuff. I no longer use Comp at all.

 

Their tech line usually leaves something to be desired too.

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