Z Model Advice for V8 Project

[Guest tony78_280z]

I planned about $2.5k and three weekends worth of work. hee hee!

[Guest Turbo_Lag]

Have you tried looking for a 240Z at:

http://www.kbb.com

if not give it a whirl u put in your zip code and the car make and model and it searches classifieds and dealerships and stuff within up to like 100 miles of ur area even further i think...good luck!

Josh

[240Z2NV]

I know that you can do the radiator/fan line item for considerably less money. And you might want to take that leftover 'change' and create a line item for differential swap...you'll need it with 400+hp

[American]

American' date='

Also consider other parts places in addition to AZC:

modern-motorsports.com

zcarparts.com

victoriabritish.com

...and the others that serve up used Datsun parts...can't remember those.

Davy

 

I have bookmarks for those and others:

 

http://www.tvmadeez.com

http://www.baddogparts.com

http://www.datsunzparts.com

http://www.arizonazcar.com

http://www.betamotorsports.com

http://www.zbarn.com

http://classicdatsun.com

 

I know some of the prices I have quoted may be on the high side, some are not, but when budgeting you ALWAYS end up spending more than you think as evidenced by my post above.

 

KBB doesn't search far enough back even though it lists the 240z in its selection of models to search for. I think it hits around the mid 80's.

[pparaska]

I know that you can do the radiator/fan line item for considerably less money. And you might want to take that leftover 'change' and create a line item for differential swap...you'll need it with 400+hp

 

You will need a different radiator than the one that JTR sells/lists for 400+ hp - especially if you go with A/C.

 

My 406 spent 20 miles behind the 84-86 Camaro radiator. It ran very hot even taking it easy in 95 degree heat high humidity. On johnc's recommendation, I went with a C&R Racing radiator. It's a 20" core, dual pass, 19" tall, about 23" overall width. Beautiful piece.

 

Also, please read through my site and do a lot of reading in the different forums here on HybridZ (and the personal sites of people who post here) before finalizing your plans.

 

For instance, to me driveline vibration in V8Zs is a real issue and very annoying. I went through a bunch of trouble getting my u-joint angles small and equal to get around this. One part that allowed that to happen is the Ron Tyler diff mount (not the AZ Zcar part). It lowers the front of the diff (key for getting the u-joint angles small with a JTR conversion) and provides isolation and compresses the mount (GM or urethane aftermarket) under acceleration. The solid AZ Zcar front diff mount will transmit vibrations and not lower the front of the diff as much.

 

The radiator and diff mount are just two of the little bits of info that are out there that go beyond the JTR book and provide other and sometimes better routes to go in the conversion. The JTR book is a great start, but not the last word.

 

BTW, the DAT-402C headers ARE THE ONES TO USE if you are doing D-port angle plug heads and want to stay with block huggers. (What isn't available is a long tube header that fits well for lowered Zs - the S&S streetrod header hangs too low). The JTR DAT-402C headers match the D-port well (specify that when ordering), work with any angle plug layout, and are very nice (Sanderson) pieces. They fit well. The only issue with fitment COULD be the name tag on the driver side header is kind of close to the steering rod - you can grind it off pretty easily - but JTR should get Sanderson to leave that name tag off one of the headers to get around this and have the coating kept intact in that area. I looked around at all the block huggers available and these are the only ones that I could find anyone say actually fit the D-port and the low angle plug heads I have (Canfield) and also fit the Z in the JTR position. If you're going with standard port straight plug heads, the typical hooker block hugger headers work fine.

 

Do a lot of research on these forums and you'll save money and end up with a better conversion than just jumping in.

 

Just some friendly advice,

[American]

Pete,

 

Thanks for the reply. I have already visited your site and intend to read over it in detail.

 

You touched on the two things that concern me most. Cooling and driveline vibration. I have fought the cooling issues in my small block conversions (Jeep and Vega) and know how difficult it can be, especially on high HP engines, to keep them cool. I will be looking very hard at that option and is why I stated such a high price for radiator/fans in my first post.

 

Driveline vibration just bugs the crap out of me and is something I've been trying to read up on here. Your info is greatly appreciated and you can bet I will heed your advice.

 

Even if I find a 240 project car today I doubt I will be starting on it any time real soon, not until we sell our home (it's on the market now) and move into one with a shop.

 

This thread is basically my research, listing parts, getting advice, collecting information from other posts. I will probably start a site on my server to in order to document all of this data in detail (I'm a research nut) before I so much as turn a wrench. There will be plenty of stripping and body repair long before I start bolting on parts I'm sure.

 

Thanks,

[240Z2NV]

If I may, I'd like to offer another bit of advice. I, and many of our peers have done this...some may not consider it a 'mistake'; but, in retrospect I would have done it differently.

In the excitement of this undertaking it is REALLY easy to get 'gung-ho' and start acquiring/buying 'stuff'. The problem that I experienced with this is: it ties up your funds for the project if you buy items that you likely won't need for at least a year, it occupies ALOT of space, and it helps to create distractions.

A good friend on this site (Tim240Z) told me before I even started this build to stay on-track, and keep a logical, linear progression...do things in order. I wish that I had followed it through instead of my ADD method of doing a little of this, and a little of that.

Now, I have a bedroom, an attic, and a three car garage full of parts that I won't be needing for LONG time, and spent alot of money that would have been better sitting in a bank until I was truly ready for the next 'task'. It is VERY easy to get caught up in the 'acquisition'...afterall, buying stuff is fun!!

[pparaska]

Great point! Don't build the engine until the last step. Start with a plan, work on the chassis/structure and move forward, not buying until you need the parts.

 

DavyZ - what do you think?

[American]

I agree wholeheartedly. I learned the very same thing on past projects. Here is how I see this going:

 

1. Research - this is where I am now, figuring the the GENERAL direction I want to go with this.

 

2. Vehicle Aquisition - taking my time to find a good clean 240.

 

3. Tear Down - tear down and inspection, ascertain fundamental repairs and start the stripping process.

 

4. Repairs - repair any frame/body issues, deal with frame rails/connectors and fabrication.

 

Those things have to happen before I so much as buy the JTR kit. Then I'll move into the second phase of undercarriage coatings, kit, dif and suspension installation, drivetrain/engine then paint and interior, etc.

 

I'm a pretty methodical type so unless I run into some smokin deal on something I KNOW I will need I won't be buying any parts in the immediate future. Having said that, I don't care to think about the times I bought items I 'knew' I would need only to go a different direction and either eating or taking a loss on parts I ended up not needing. Been there, have the Tshirt.

 

I really appreciate everyone's input.. keep it coming.. I'm a sponge!

[deMideon]

Not to mention that after you are done and you Finally clean up the shop.... Oh! here is where my SFI silicone fluid damper went! LOL! Also I have quite a few thing that I thought would work fine until I actually had everything in fron of me and found out the no.... no that really won't work!

[American]

I see you went with the 400 block and 350 crank and spacers, drilled the steam holes in the heads..etc. Your dyno charts are too small to read in your Yahoo album, mind posting a larger version here or somewhere? Specs on your engine?

[deMideon]

Actually I used a Scat 400 crank, I don't like spacers. It needed balanced anyway so I had my machinest internally balance it!

 

As far as the dyno... they are full sized, you have to select Download from the buttons over the picture. Then you get the full size version! I have done a lot of work to my engine since then including getting the cam timed, so I've got to get back in to a dyno and see what the numbers are now. Anyway here are my specs:

 

400 block bored 40 over, decked .020

Scat 9000 crank, 400 mains internally balanced, 3.5" stroke for 6" rods

Scat 6" I beam rods w 7/16 arp bolts

Keith Black 194 pistons, 10.7:1 w / 64cc heads

Canfield heads - 59.2cc

Intake valves 2.02 Exhaust valves 1.60

Flow Numbers:

.1 - 63.5 - 50.5

.2 - 130 - 94

.3 - 185 - 128

.4 - 237 - 151

.5 - 252 - 165

.6 - 253.5 - 175

.7 - 256.5 - 182

 

Crane Cam - 114681

VicJr intake

Speed Demon 750 w mech secondaries

Aluminum Flywheel / Centerfroce 2 dual friction clutch

T-56 w Wier bellhousing and hyd. throwout bearing

R-200 3.54 gears, Phantom Grip installed

[American]

Actually I used a Scat 400 crank, I don't like spacers.

 

Me either, that's why I was wondering what your setup is, just noticed the steam holes in the heads and assumed.... Any time I built strokers I usually went with the 350 block and cut 400 crank but for this project I want a larger bore and shorter stroke.. .oversquare, more revs.

 

Very nice setup.

[deMideon]

Thanks! Now that I am getting it close to having the bugs worked out I am really happy with the engine... it's almost not enough power again! LOL!!!

[240Z2NV]

Here's a link, might be worth the trip....?

 

http://www.craigslist.org/nby/car/92852008.html

 

Hope it works out for someone...

Stan

[pparaska]

... it's almost not enough power again! LOL!!!

 

Well, after a few thousand miles with the 327 that turned a 1.9+sec 60-foot, 12.78 sec, 110.4 mph quarter, I was definitely ready for more. Don't let anyone tell you that they have too much power. That rarely happens.

 

You have enough torque/power when there is so much at every useable point in the rpm band you use that it scares you to use all the pedal in all situations. You can quote me on that!

[American]

Well... found a local 72 240, going to look at it in a bit. This guys wife 'wants it out of the way' so it may be had fairly cheap. It's been converted to a rear engine Z

 

 

Only thing that concerns me at this point, other than no title, is he says the roof has some dents it. I guess those can be worked out easy enought by a good bodyman though. Supposedly has the normal rust in the quarters. I'll have to check the frame rails, battery area and floorboards of course. I'll take some good close up pics when I'm there.

 

Any comments?

[240Z2NV]

I see a fair amount of rust at the rear hatch. Also, roofs on Zs are not easy to straighten out, even by a good metal man. It is very tedious and time consuming because the roof 'tin cans' so easily. Good luck....

[DavyZ]

Great point! Don't build the engine until the last step. Start with a plan' date=' work on the chassis/structure and move forward, not buying until you need the parts.

 

DavyZ - what do you think? [/quote']

 

 

OOOooooh, my head hurts!!!!!!!!!

 

Sound advice that I should have taken seriously. Cripes.

 

Davy

[DavyZ]

Only thing that concerns me at this point' date=' other than no title, is he says the roof has some dents it. I guess those can be worked out easy enought by a good bodyman though... Any comments?[/quote']

 

I had a roof replaced that had a sunroof cut into it. The 'new' roof (cut from another 240Z) had some dents in it as well. In talking to the bodyshop guys, they acertained that the dents were from someone walking or standing on the roof. They also mentioned that foor dents are extremely difficult to get out and make look perfect. I thought that strange, but I took note of it. Racer X would be a great person to email regarding that. He hangs in the body and paint forum all the time and is a guru.

 

Davy