datsunan Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 I just called Aimco clutch which is the company selling the XTD on e-bay. Talked to a guy named Jimmy who seemed to know his stuff. I told him my mods and that I had 330rwtq and 290rwhp that was to much for my Centerforce II dual friction clutch. He said the best way to go with the XTD line was to use a stage 4 pp and a stage 2 organic disc for high trq and good drivability. The one on e-bay is stage 3 pp and ceramic disc. My price was $215. I'm going to order on tomorrow but it may be a week befor I put it in. I will post how it works and see if it hold on the dyno. My CF II clutch slipped on the dyno and I never got my true magic #. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 im very close to getting my Z running, will be going to dyno soon to fine tune the Microtech EMS to get as much power out of the L28ET i can. will be doing lots of driving on it too, so ill see how well i like the Spec stage 4 unsprung clutch and 10lb alum flywheel in houston traffic. its gonna be a blast! mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 I don't get you guys. I have an unsprung act 6 puck and it ain't hard to drive at all. I did have to adjust the clutch pedal to no play, because supposedly I stuck in the wrong size t/o bearing collar and the clutch slave explodes after two blocks. I'm about to take the tranny down again to try and change it. After reading that thread though, do you think it would for for me to drill a hole through the nipple and use the adjustable 240z rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jason84NA-T Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 I don't get you guys. I have an unsprung act 6 puck and it ain't hard to drive at all. I did have to adjust the clutch pedal to no play, because supposedly I stuck in the wrong size t/o bearing collar and the clutch slave explodes after two blocks. I'm about to take the tranny down again to try and change it. After reading that thread though, do you think it would for for me to drill a hole through the nipple and use the adjustable 240z rod? Funny, mineis not hard to drive either. No chatter since I got used to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 LoL.. thanks guys... I never expected soo many replies!! I think I will go out and order the Daiken clutch.. its nearly half the price of the ACT and it seems like the ACT clutch is way too stiff for a streetable car.. esepcially with my daily drives downtown to school in Denver traffic *shivers* LoL.. thanks Bastaad for the suggestion.. my only worry.. it's the quality of the clutch disc is crap.. and it will fly apart.. but if i buy a Daiken pressure plate' date=' and ACT street clutch disc... i'll be ok =) but I'll try Daiken out[/quote'] To be honest I'm not even sure what brand my actual clutch disc is. I just know that the PP was Daikin... the guy simply said the disc was the 'stock' replacement. But I know it wasn't Nissan. I don't even know for sure how many miles I've had it in there but I know it's been about a year, and I abuse the heck out of it... hasn't blown to bits yet I just turned up the boost to 14psi and have REALLY been giving it a workout these last couple days. I dont know how much it would cost, but if it were me, I'd probably consider getting the stock Nissan disc, probably before the ACT disc... but either should be fine, just get whatever's cheaper. Then again, I'd probably just buy the exact same thing I already did I don't get you guys. I have an unsprung act 6 puck and it ain't hard to drive at all. I did have to adjust the clutch pedal to no play, because supposedly I stuck in the wrong size t/o bearing collar and the clutch slave explodes after two blocks. I'm about to take the tranny down again to try and change it. After reading that thread though, do you think it would for for me to drill a hole through the nipple and use the adjustable 240z rod? After I got used to mine it wasn't that bad.. as I mentioned, leaving a light w/o chattering was not a problem. But it was still VERY stiff, and there were days I would limp because I got stuck in traffic with it. It also didn't help to find out later that that clutch was complete overkill... I had bought it on the advice of my engine builder, back when I had the n/a motor, which 'only' put down 170rwhp. It definatley did NOT need a 6 puck clutch to hold it. Another case to make though... every time I had EVER had that car at a shop, for an oil change or alignment or whatever, and the shop mechanics would try to pull my car into their bay, NO one could move my car!! EVERY single one of them would stall it. And I'd warn them before they tried... "hey just so you know it's got a racing clutch it in" and they'd always "yeah yeah no problem" and 10 seconds later they'd stall it. Then I'd have to cringe as they tried sometimes 2 or 3 times to get it rolling and finally would usually just give up and let me move it. Always good for a laugh... but driveability issues aside, yeah... you can get used to it, then it's not so bad, but that doesn't change the fact that it WILL chew up your flywheel and pressure plate. Mind you, in my N/A setup, I never really slipped the clutch like I do with the turbo motor. When I'd take off with the N/A motor, I'd just hold the revs to 3000 and drop the clutch... it wouldnt' slip at all... I'd just get tire spin and off I'd go. So the only slipping I ever did was the 'regular' kind just to get it moving... not very abusive at all, right? But within two years, it had worn the flywheel down by a HUGE amount... probably close to 1mm, and since I'd already had the flywheel surfaced and lightened, that was enough that the clutch disc rivets would contact the flywheel bolts. The pressure plate friction surface was also worn down quite a bit. That clutch really chewed everything up pretty badly, that was after like 20,000 miles. Violacleff - you really have it adjusted to NO play at all? okay don't get mad if I'm stating the overly obvious, but that would probably be KILLER on your throwout bearing and your thrust bearing... you should have at least a little play in there or else it's basically like driving around with your foot pressing on the pedal all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 I'm not actually driving it that way. I'm trying to pull the whole thing down again to reinstall it with the longer t/o bearing collar. LOL! Limping after traffic! You guys need to work out more! Actually all the mechanics were able to drive my car no problem. Hmm better check this thing again and make sure of what I really got! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 To be honest I'm not sure which set I got when I had the ACT... do they come in different levels? All I remember is it was a bright yellow PP, and the six puck metallic disc with unsprung hub. And yeah, I swear to god, not one person was able to get my car moving w/o at least stalling it once. It's funny... I always thought of that as a good theft deterrent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 used a 240mm (turbo size) daiken clutch for years.it took a 5000 rpm sidestep at sac dragway to get it to let go.it slipped and overheated at about 60' of the line and slipped all the way down.when it cooled i used it for 3 more years.daiken was oem builder for nissan.do not use any rebuilt kragen/autozone junk.some of those 1 day clutch shops can get daiken kits cheap.i put in a 240mm act street set up .i havent tried to make it slip .i wont run a puck type clutch.i used to work at a shop that repaired trucks .we put some puck type clutches in 3/4 ton ford diesel pick-ups that were towing heavy loads.the pucks did not wear out-they wore a deep groove in the flywheel.the fancy stuff isnt always needed.the daiken clutch couldnt hold on a 15psi dyno run either.but when it cooled it still worked.iin a na car a 240mm oem style daiken would be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Maybe I should update this post... haha.. The ACT heavy duty pressure plate and ACT full faced, sprung, organic disc works great!! No slipping issues.. GREAT pedal feel... I used the 240mm clutch.. and 240mm throwout bearing collar.. the 225mm collar worked.. but it didnt allow for more adjustment.. and didnt completly dis-engage the clutch all the way.. even though it was longer.. weirdest thing.. Here are some pics of the install Ohh and DONT install the t/o bearing backwards.. haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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