wiggling the key to start the Zcar

[md77]

There is a problem with the ignition switch that I need your help with.

 

If you turn the key to the start position, usually nothing happens, except a "click" coming from the fuse box. You have wiggle the key for a little while to engage the starter to start the car. It seems to be connection problem, except the fact the car acts like the power is being diverted to the starter, plus there is the afore metioned clicking sound, everything goes off like normal, until you turn the key back to "ON, regardless if the car is running or not.

 

It is getting worse, today I had to aggressively wiggle the key for 10 min until, the car started. It is easier to roll my car down my driveway and pop the clutch, but I am afraid of damage of prolonged use of this method and there are not many hills in Albuquerque to roll down, except at my house, so I try to avoid driving the car that requires me to restart the car before I return home, and the car about to run out of gas.

 

Thanks Marshall

[JMortensen]

Could be the igntion switch itself which is a little electical switch behind the lock cylinder, or it could be the lock cylinder. If you pull the cover off the steering column you can see what I'm talking about. I can't remember for sure but I think you need to take the stalks for the turn signal and lights off of the steering column to get at the switch. The stalks are put on with bolts whose heads break off when you tighten them down, so you can't just unscrew them. The trick is to take a hammer and chisel (or a Dremel) and cut a slot in the end of the bolt so that you can unscrew it.

 

Anyway if you can get the lock cylinder and the switch separated then you could test the switch itself and if it works then you know that the lock cylinder is not allowing enough movement. From your description it sounds like the lock cylinder is "loose". You could take it to a locksmith and probably have them rework it for you. I did this on a door lock that you had to wiggle quite a bit to get to unlock. I've also seen bad switches, so it really could be either one.

[240playtoy]

md77, I've got similar issues. I get a click with a simultaneous power drain (ammeter shoot to -45 amps and radio turns off). My key has to be jiggled in and out and all around on occasion to get the right spot to allow me to get to the start position as well as to get it to the off position (is this the same as your wiggle?). The key can also be pulled out from any location on the ignition switch. As for the not starting but clicking, I got a brand new ungodly high-amp rated, fully-charged battery, overkill 2 gauge battery cables to block and starter. I even went to autozone and got a "conditional" starter hoping I had a bad solenoid. And all I got for this money was a frustration/anger and a long string of expletives.

 

As for the clicking sound, I too thought it was coming from the fusebox area, but it was actually my starter. It throws out but doesn't retract. slightly turning the crank by hand releases it. I've tried shimming and everything but I'm thinking, after much reading of posts here and on LT1tech.com that my solenoid isn't seeing all 12.xx volts from my batt. Long story short: starter circuit thru ignition switch may have too high of a voltage drop to allow full throw of the starter solenoid. Full throw seems necessary for cranking.

[Here comes trouble]

A bad ignition switch will cause the headlights to dim while applying the brakes

[md77]

The key does come out of the ignition, in the on position, and the normal position. I dont remember if it did this before, last time I drove the car regularly was 3 yrs ago when I left for college. so it might be either one. How much is the ignition switch cost. I will look at the underside of the column when I get home ad see what I can do. Thanks MD

[BrandonsZ]

if the AM meter goes to 45 there is a short. The radio will turn off regardless of a power draw because the ignition switch intentionally turns off the ACC circuit while in the start position. You may have a bad wire connection to the starter solenoid. If you don't hear the solenoid click, it may be there, try to turn over the car with a 12V wire to the solenoid, or check for voltage at the solenoid, it may be a stuck solenoid.

 

I swore up and down that ignition switch was bad in my Prelude, but nope, it was the starter solenoid -AND- vapro lock with the fuel pump - AND - the fule pump relay and they all failed simultaneously I'm serious! I rebuilt the starter and it turned over again, but still wouldn't start, then I checked and had no fuel pressure so I checked the fuel pump relay and it was stuck open. So I replaced that and it would start fine on a cold day, then I replaced the fuel pump and had 2 years of problem free driving.

 

Check the switch before you replace it.