Guest s130xsw20 Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 Hey all, I am new to posting on this forum, but have had my Z for about three years now and have been steadily reading. I have an '83 turbo and it has always had this problem where once it gets to temp or really warm....no overheating....from driving for awhile the car shuts off. It won't start back up right away, but if i let it cool down it will start and i can drive it again no probs. I was told it was vapor lock a long time ago and since then i've installed a palnet rail, newer injectors and and walboro pump. I still have the problem though. Any ideas? The ignitor, coil plugs and wires also have alomst no mileage on them. any help would be great. thanks adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 I have a similar problem with my no turboed Z. I run triple weber carbs and get vapor lock. Im gonna try installing a fan to push the air down outta the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 #1. Bring a timing light with you when you shut down. A. If there is flash (spark) then it is a fuel problem go to #2. B. If there is no flash, you have: - Bad engine relay 40% - Igniter problem with electronic ignition 40% - Bad Connection somewhere 10% - Bad computer or other electronics 9% - Gremlins 1%. #2. When it stalls and you were running see #3, otherwise you tried to start it just after shutting it off and now you have no fuel: A. Unscrew your gas cap, try again, if this solved it get a new pump. 50% B. Tap on the fuel relay, or unplug it and shake it and plug it back in, otherwise check it for function, try again, if this solved it get a new relay. 49% C. 1% fuel gremlins. #3 When it stalls while the engine was running, and you still have spark and it won't start: A. Check the Fuel relay 50% B. Check the Fuel presure (might be low enough to stall), need a new pump and/or filter. 49% C. 1% your car is possessed, get an exorcist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s130xsw20 Posted October 1, 2005 Share Posted October 1, 2005 thanks guys....brandonsZ that's some great stuff there. I like the demons thats pretty good. thats how it seems sometimes. Ill give them all a check, but just about everything fuel related, besides the pump relay and injectors is brand new. Thanks again and ill give these tests a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted October 1, 2005 Share Posted October 1, 2005 - Igniter problem with electronic ignition 40% s130xsw20, This could be your car problem. The ignition black box on the distributor has problem with heat. This problem is seen on all L-series engines with black box eletronic ignition. The symptom is E-X-A-C-T-L-Y like you described : car gets hot, then everything quits all of a sudden; car goes back to normal once it cools off a bit. What people do is relocate the black box(extend the wires) and move the box to someplace cooler in the engine bay. Some people use aftermarket ignition module, which is also installed somewhere cooler in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest s130xsw20 Posted October 1, 2005 Share Posted October 1, 2005 ok i may be confused here, but isnt the ignitor (ignition control module, little black box) already located on the shock tower right next to the coilon a 83 turbo? I replaced that with a brand new one and the problem is still there. Thats what i thought it was....since on all other cars with this prob it turns out being this. Correct me if i am wrong so i can get my Z reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Put tune-up grease on all connectors especially ones that will see the highest vibration, MAF, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 I had the same exact problem with my 83 Turbo. It turned out to be the Cylinder head temp sensor. It's on the passenger side of the head around the #5 cyl. All I did was disconnect the plug, stick a jumper wire in it ( the plug)and took it for a drive. It was hard to start like that, but it did run for over 45mins on the road and at idle. Replaced the sensor, plugged it in, and all was good! Hope that helps Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 I also had a friend with the same problem. When the car gets hot the car shuts off. Wait till it cools, it runs fine again. He didn't relocate his, just replaced it and haven't had any problems. -R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 I can't believe this.. Your problem is the crank angle sensor inside your distributor. I can bet you anything. Just get another distributor and that's should fix your problem. GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 4, 2005 Share Posted October 4, 2005 That thing on the shock tower is the coil. Sounds like ignition module to me - the black box on the side of the dizzy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Bradman, His car is a turbo. The little round thing next to the coil is called the transistor. It sometimes goes bad and can cause the same problem. However I have experienced this problem personally with my turbo ZX so I know. it's the CAS. GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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