Poundz9oh9 Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Just a quick question. I changed the oil and filter at about 1 hour of the engine running. Then again at 300 mi. Then again at 600 mi. What would one expect to see in the filter at this point, or at any other point for that matter...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Fine aluminum and moly if you used moly rings. Aluminum is from the pistons scuffing on the fresh honed cylinders, wipes the pistons just like it does the rings. Really shouldn't see much other than that, if you do, then you'd better pull the pan and have a look see. When you cut the filter open spread the filter material out flat and look in the creases, that's where most of the particles get trapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 There's usually some small particles and trash on the first fireup. If you put in a new double roller timing chain, they generate a good bit of visible particles. By 600 miles, everything should have settled down and only a few particles visible on the paper. Cutting the oil filter open and inspecting it tells you a lot about what's going on in the engine. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 you can prevent a good deal of metalic dust/crap from entering your oil pump and being forced thru the gears by installing several magnets in the engine to trap crud BEFORE it gets sucked into the pump look at the oil passage lay out when the oil is cold or theres assembly lube or other crud in the filter , or you rev the engine SOME OIL FLOW ALWAYS BYPASSES THE FILTER[/img] http://www.wondermagnets.com/ these are NOT REFRIGERATOR MAGNETS "#0001" can pick up a SBC cylinderhead, and you wont beleive the amount of crud they remove from your oil and prevent from reaching the bearings © 2003 ForceField Email us toll free (877)944-6247 or (970)484-7257 Also, you can visit us at our retail store in Fort Collins, Colorado, USA at 614 South Mason Street! Ive been installing 4 of these lately in the corners of the oil pan sump, and one in the rear of each cylinder head nothing magnetic (metallic dust from engine wear, assorted trash,etc.)can get past them, I also sometimes install one near the rear oil drain in the lifter gallery to collect broken valve train shrapnel in case of a failure to limit damage on race engines. btw if you dont want to install them inside the sump you can J&B weld them to the outside of the oil pan permently or just place them there if you want them removable,TRUST ME THEY WON,T FALL OFF ON THIER OWN attached to the steel oil pan sump, or the iron block BTW ID use the thinner synthetic oils as mineral base oils leave deposites that restrict oil flow thru the screens if the oil does not get changed FREQUENTLY look at them as one time use and disposable if the block gets HOT TANKED,as to screens I use J&B weld to place screen over the oil return holes in the block http://store.summitracing.com/default.as...p;x=38&y=13 look at them as one time use and disposable if the block gets HOT TANKED,also,while they may hold its doubtfull once the blocks cooked and dunked so ID remove and install new on each build like the BRASS freeze plugs and cam bearings keep in mind MAGNETS tend too loose strength if heated to 250 degrees or higher so having an oil cooler to keep the oil temps under about 230F but over the minimum 215F to burn off moisture is a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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