Power t5 clutch

[rudypoochris]

I searched and found this very helpful: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99312&highlight=clutch

 

But i have some questions of my own. Im kind of knew at clutch mechanics so sorry if i ask a stupid question:

 

1. Hydraulic throwout bearings replace the clutch fork and simply push on the clutch from inside the bell housing? (The clutch MC line would go directly into the bearing?) If so how do they rate the bearings performance (in bore and stroke or soemthing else)?

 

2. If the stock t5 clutch fork is kept approximately how much travel is needed at the end of the fork to disengage and engage the clutch fully?

 

3. Can anyone recommend what size master and slave is necessary. I heard a Neal or Wilwood slave with 7/8th bore and Wilwood MC at 1" bore works great, but what are their strokes? Any one have the part numbers? Below is a pic of this setup.

 

[Trevor]

Rudy,

I like the way you are looking at this, bore x stroke = volume of "pushed" fluid at both ends of the system. Let me dredge up some old memories.

Re: your question #2 I have only woked on the Chevy clutch fork/bellhousing but I found that the external slave needed 1" of stroke to move the end of the fork far enough to disengage a stock chevy 10.5" clutch (1979 vintage). I was using the stock Datsun external slave cylinder with the 5/8" bore (per Scarab tradition). To move 0.306 cu. in. of fluid I needed a larger than 7/8" bore master cylinder or a longer stroke of the master cylinder. I tried moving the master cylinder lower and pushing it from a lower point on the clutch pedal arm by cutting a new hole in the firewall (much pain & suffering) but found the pedal effort was too much due to the decreased leverage. Then I bought Terry Oxendale's book and read his trial and experience over pretty much the same things which led me to try a 1" bore master cylinder (from an antique Volvo LOL). This only needed 3/8" of stroke to move the slave 1".

Everything I've read about hydraulic throwout bearings says 7/8" Master is the way to go. They must all have about the same volume requirement.

[rudypoochris]

Did the later cars come with a larger bore master?

[Ferd/289]

There is a nice tech/installation writeup on Blue Oval's web site on hydraulic throwout bearing which he installed on his Z.

Ferd

[rudypoochris]

I got some info on the mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing, it is $380. :/ is there any cheaper way of going to hydraulic, keeping the fork is fine by me.

[rudypoochris]

Has anyone tried reusing the stock stuff or is the throw insufficent?

[Trevor]

http://www.autoworks.cc/65-70%20ford_hydraulic_clutch_kits.htm

[rudypoochris]

Ya i saw that but im cheap so it doesnt seem like a good route for me. $400 for a working clutch pedal is kinda crazy IMHO. I think i will make my own out of wilwood stuff. Well first i need to check their prices any way.

[Dp351zcar]

Is there one?

[rudypoochris]

Summit racing store part number: FMS-M-7548-Asays it is a hydraulic T/O bearing from ford racing for the 302 with t5, will this work with a master cylinder??? Does it eliminate the fork like the mcleod bearing? If it does im buying it, it is only $35!!!!

[Guest levelhead86]

I know my Jeep T5 has a "hydraulic" clutch setup, but it still uses the fork style releasing lever, rather than a real hydraulic powered throw out bearing. Just figured I'd through that in as a possible budget option...

[rudypoochris]

I found out the summit piece really isnt hydraulic it is a normal T/O. I am going to build my own out of wilwood parts, I think the price i came up with was about $200 to do it all, including fab work, of course it will probably be more like $300.